Has Anyone Ever Stripped The Threads ...

[Montelores]

Has anyone ever stripped the threaded holes on their frame where the grip frame screws attach?

How tight is too tight? The stock screws seem to have a dab of plastic or Loc-Tite on them.

If a threaded hole is stripped, is there a repair available (such as a Heli-Coil)?


Thanks to all -

Monty

 

[contender]

I've seen stripped screws,, but not the frames. I think a trip to a gunsmith is in order if the frame is stripped.
Yes,, the factory puts a little thread locking compound on all the screws.
As for how much to tighten,, good & snug,, w/o german torque (goodentight) is fine. Check a bit after shooting.

 

[BwBrown]

Tight is relative. They are small screws. Acceptable torque would be measured in inch pounds, not foot pounds.

That thread sealant is there to keep'em from backing out.

You're holding on gun grips, not the bumper on a semi.

Snug them up, check them often, use proper fitting tools. If the thread lock no longer works use blue thread lock - lock tite.
Bob

 

[flatgate]

Yes, stripped out screws can be fixed. However, in all my years of dinking with Rugers I've NEVER encountered a stripped grip frame screw hole....

Monofilament fishing line does a pretty good job as a "thread locker". Stuff a piece of 20# line in the hole, insert the screw and tighten normally. Trim the tail with fingernail clippers or a "lit match"......

JMHO,

flatgate

 

[Anonymous]

I always tighten a grip screw until I get resistance, some would say the screw "bottoms". Then I watch the end of the slot, and tighten just the thickness of the slot more. I've never lost a screw, or cracked a grip, that way. Just a little tension is enough.

Be sure the grip screws, grips, and grip area of frame are free of oil. Oily threads will tighten more than it feels like they are, and still work back out.

I always remove the grips and clean a gun after each session, so next time I also know the grips are good to go.

 

[J Miller]

I have an Old Model Super Single-Six with on cross threaded, almost stripped grip frame screw hole. Took a gunsmith to get it squared away.

I cinch 'em up tight, but stop short of breaking or stripping them.

Joe

 

[Montelores]

Thank you all for the replies.

I have recently spent some time replacing the trigger springs on Blackhawks and SingleSixes with Wolff 30 Oz. springs, and I wanted some advice for the grip screws.

I will remember the advice about the oil, and I believe that torque figures for threaded fasteners applies to "dry" threads. Also, the "one-screw-slot-tighter" technique is a good guideline.

Flatgate - I have read about your technique in another recent thread, and I believe that I will give that a try. The "Flatgate Fix".

Thanks again to all for the help for a novice.

Monty

 

[G2]

I recently picked up a "like new used Gun" and as with any gun I own had to tear it apart & clean things up.

Well guess what, The front Grip Frame Screw STRIPPED!!... :shock:

This is a first for me too, Have never seen stripped Grip Frame Holes. I wondered, Weld it up and re-do-it, or go bigger 6-40 to 8-40.

Not really knowing what to do I PM'd fellow member Pinecone and got some Great info back, Here are his recommendations.

Here is my recommendation. First off, I don't like putting welding heat on any part of a firearm if I don't have to. 99 out of a 100 times there will always be a better way. The grip frame screws are 6-40. Their width is approximately .122. Do you have a way of measuring the stripped out hole. If you don't have "pin gauges" then you can use a set of "numbered" drills as gauges. If the stripped out hole is less than .135, then I like to go with a 6-48 screw. Simply re-tap the hole with a 6-48 tap. If the stripped out hole is "over" .120 then do "not" re-drill the hole with a # 31 drill. Simply run the 6-48 tap through the bunged up hole 2 or 3 times and your good to go with a 6-48 screw! "If" the stripped out hole is "over" .135 then I go to an 8-40 screw and only drill the hole with a # 28 drill "if" the hole is "less" than .140. In any case, you don't want that "new" hole over .140! That's it in a nutshell. If you go to an 8-40 screw, you will have to turn down the "head" diameter to fit the access hole in the grip frame. Personally, I never put Locktite on these screws at all. That's how the holes get buggered up to begin with. Hand tight with the right size screw driver is all they need! Hope this helps you out. Take your time and this is a relatively easy job...................Dick

I ended up with .1285 hole, 6-48 tap will be here Tuesday...

 

[Pinecone]

Montelores, I have repaired many a stripped out frame hole in single action revolvers. If the threads can't be "chased" with the normal 6-40 tap and still remain "tight", then go to a larger screw. Depending on the size of the stripped out hole, governs whether or not you redrill the hole and what size screw you go to before tapping! I can count on one hand the number of times I have used Locktite on these screws! I simply don't buy into that theory from 44 + years of gunsmithing experience. I may be an "animal" of a different color as I have seen more trouble from Locktite than I have seen good! That's the biggest "reason" for bunged up screw "heads". If your threads are "tight" then simple handtight screws will suffice in almost all cases. If your the kind that like to put in "rocket" type propulsion in your reloads then that's a completely different matter. You need to be collecting and shooting bazookas!................Dick :wink: PS: G2 posted about the same time I was posting. Thanks to G2 for passing this on to all!

 

[Montelores]

Thanks, G2 and pinecone. Good information from experience.

I'm curious, though. Is there a repair such as a "Heli-Coil" available for this size screw?

I haven't stripped anything, but I am going to check my work.

If I am not sure when I am working on a car or motorcycle, I usually just use 2 or 3 fingers on the wrench to ensure that I don't over-tighten.

Spark plugs being re-used- usually just until they bottom out, then an extra 1/4 turn.

Thanks again -

Monty

P.S. I found this:

http://emhartamericas.com/pdf/Heli%20Coil/HC2000%20Rev%204.pdf

On page 10, there is a chart which I believe shows a 6-40 size.

Heli-Coils are great for spark plugs holes and oil drain plug holes on engines.

 

[J Miller]

Monty,

Here's also a tip to help keep things from being in a bind.

Make positive sure the grip frame mounts up to the cylinder frame completely.

I've run across several where the bottom will mate up, but the rear part and the ears will be a 64th or so away from the cylinder frame. When you crank them screws down it actually flexes the grip frame to fit. This is hard on screws and grip frames.

So check the grip frame and make sure it mates up perfectly and that all the screw holes line up as well. That will keep the stress on the screws and their holes to a minimum.

Joe

 

[Montelores]

Thank you, Joe.

I'm new to this, so that is good advice.

What I have found works for me is that I mate the 2 frames together, and then I separate them slightly by pulling the grip frame to the rear and down just a bit. Then I can push the trigger return spring under the trigger, and then I re-seat the frames together.

I then roll the revolver upside-down, and, with my thumb through the trigger guard and my fingers squeezing the 2 frames together from underneath, I can seat each screw and feel if there is any binding on the threads or screws.

So far, the surfaces seem to be mating up well, but your point is prudent.

I am not swapping frame parts, so I know at least that the things went together at the factory.

What I might do is purchase a screwdriver with a smaller, smooth handle
so that I will be less likely to over-torque the screws.

Thanks again for the advice, and I will check for alignment of the holes as I work.

Best,

Monty

 

[JNewell]

Well, I was going to post that *** unless you cross-thread the scres *** the odds of stripping the threads are awfully low, but I guess it does happen. Excellent report from you and Pinecone. I would add only that Brownells sells either (I don't remember which) slightly oversize 6-40 or 6-48 screws, and that might fix the problem. They were developed to rescue smiths from problems with scope mounting rings, IIRC.

I recently picked up a "like new used Gun" and as with any gun I own had to tear it apart & clean things up.

Well guess what, The front Grip Frame Screw STRIPPED!!... :shock:

This is a first for me too, Have never seen stripped Grip Frame Holes. I wondered, Weld it up and re-do-it, or go bigger 6-40 to 8-40.

Not really knowing what to do I PM'd fellow member Pinecone and got some Great info back, Here are his recommendations.

Here is my recommendation. First off, I don't like putting welding heat on any part of a firearm if I don't have to. 99 out of a 100 times there will always be a better way. The grip frame screws are 6-40. Their width is approximately .122. Do you have a way of measuring the stripped out hole. If you don't have "pin gauges" then you can use a set of "numbered" drills as gauges. If the stripped out hole is less than .135, then I like to go with a 6-48 screw. Simply re-tap the hole with a 6-48 tap. If the stripped out hole is "over" .120 then do "not" re-drill the hole with a # 31 drill. Simply run the 6-48 tap through the bunged up hole 2 or 3 times and your good to go with a 6-48 screw! "If" the stripped out hole is "over" .135 then I go to an 8-40 screw and only drill the hole with a # 28 drill "if" the hole is "less" than .140. In any case, you don't want that "new" hole over .140! That's it in a nutshell. If you go to an 8-40 screw, you will have to turn down the "head" diameter to fit the access hole in the grip frame. Personally, I never put Locktite on these screws at all. That's how the holes get buggered up to begin with. Hand tight with the right size screw driver is all they need! Hope this helps you out. Take your time and this is a relatively easy job...................Dick

I ended up with .1285 hole, 6-48 tap will be here Tuesday...

 

[Montelores]

Thanks, JN.

Monty

 

[Pinecone]

Monty, Just a few more tips. Make sure you use a good cutting fluid and use it generously while tapping! Look for 3 warning signs whenever you "tap" a hole. (1) More than moderate torque needed to turn the tap in the hole. (In other words, excess force). (2) Actually seeing the tap physically start "twisting" as the end of it stays sturdy). (3) Hearing the tap "squeak" as you turn it in the hole. All these are signs that the tap is being overly "stressed" and in danger of being broken off in the hole. Trust me, that's a "scenario" you don't want to face! If you ever face that, then I'll have lengthy "instructions" for that event. In 44 + years of gunsmithing, I have done this twice! However, I have had to take out taps broken by customers on multiple occasions. Sometimes it can be a 5 minute job. Other times, the most difficult job you will ever encounter in gunsmithing! Go slow and center your tap properly and the job should go uneventful. You can "practice" by drilling a hole and tapping it in a fairly soft piece of steel scrap to get the feel of the force needed in the tapping operation if you have little experience in tapping!....................Dick :wink:

 

[G2]

I would add only that Brownells sells either (I don't remember which) slightly oversize 6-40 or 6-48 screws, and that might fix the problem.

I would like to know more about these slightly oversized screws.

Pinecone have you heard of such a thing? I'm calling Brownells tomorrow, as I can't find a thing in the Catalog or Online.

 

[JNewell]

Here's the info. They're 6-48, not 6-40; sorry.

Brownells .146x48 Scope Base Shop Kit
Mfr:
BROWNELLS

Price:$6.99 - $81.99Status:In Stock

Saves Your "Tail Feathers" If A Hole Gets Stripped

Slightly larger in diameter than the common 6-48 scope base mounting screw. Most holes "ruined" while drilling or tapping can be fixed; just retap to .146"-48 and install. No need to redrill base or gun. Thanks to Doug Knowt for his tip.

.

 

[Montelores]

Thanks, pinecone. You articulated very well the "warning signs" for tapping. I have experienced that "sinking feeling" occasionally when working on vehicles and something begins to tighten too easily.

I do not have any stripped holes, but, being rather new to "home gun maintenance" (I dare not call it "gun-smithing"), I thought that I would seek some advice.

Thanks to all for the great information.

Monty

 

[Pinecone]

Monty, I have used the .146 x 48 tap on 3 or 4 occasions and it does work well for a slightly loose condition. However, on a badly damaged hole, I find it more prudent to go to an 8 x 40 screw. As far as Heli-Coil repair is concerned, the screws are just too small to effect a proper repair. If your going to enlarge the hole, then it is more prudent to go to the next larger screw. Heli-Coil repair works well on automobiles but it's not for firearms in most cases!...................Dick :wink:

 

[Montelores]

Thanks again, Pinecone -

Monty