Fix for pitted Bearcat frame

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RockyMT

Bearcat
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Hi everyone, I'm wondering if there is a fairly simple way to cover or repair the minor pitting on the butt of this Bearcat. Has anyone done it or have any ideas? Thanks
 

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doubt that is pitting, as the frames are an aluminum alloy,,,they get marked and dinged pretty easy..........we used to just polish off the bottom and used Alumahyde from Brownells and give it a quick coat just on the "flat" of the bottom,,,you can tape off the sides etc...but if you give it a quick 'dusting' ( spray by) you can blend it in......nature of the beast of 'aluminum'.........;)
 
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Never done it on a Bearcat-I understand the stakes are higher…but on standard frames, if the dings aren't too deep that can be sanded out. If you go this route you may have to sand the bottom of the grip panels to match. Another option is to fill the dings with JB Weld, and then block sand to level. If you sand with finer and finer grades ending up with 600 or finer the blend should be invisible. Then retouch with Alumahyde.
 

RockyMT

Bearcat
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Messages
18
Location
Oregon
Thank you Rugerguy, its one I am looking at to buy and these blems are the only thing holding me back, otherwise a very nice looking old Cat. The seller and I thank you.:cool::cool::cool:
 

RockyMT

Bearcat
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Thanks Randyzzz, I should be able to make that work especially with the help of my Grandson who has been restoring old military items for a few years. This one is for sale and other than these marks its a very nice revolver. So looks like it will be coming home soon as I'm now comfortable with ideas on fixing it.:cool::cool::cool:
 

Johnnu2

Hunter
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NYS
I'm sure almost any attempt to repair will stand out way more than those tiny specks. If it bothers you that much send it to Bolen for a proper going over.
I believe Hvymax is mucho correct....
Besides, if you leave it as is, you'll never notice all the new dings you're gonna put on it... :)
J.
 

GasGuzzler

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I'm sure almost any attempt to repair will stand out way more than those tiny specks. If it bothers you that much send it to Bolen for a proper going over.
Not so. "Any attempt" is a big blanket statement. This otherwise perfect boxed RSS that was sold new in Dallas had a messed up butt. Fixed it with advice from here, same advice I gave. Steel can be fixed the same way but the Alumahide may not match as well.

E4-C92059-9611-43-C8-B363-05915-E62-CAF9a.jpg

uydfshjg.jpg
 
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Not so. "Any attempt" is a big blanket statement. This otherwise perfect boxed RSS that was sold new in Dallas had a messed up butt. Fixed it with advice from here, same advice I gave. Steel can be fixed the same way but the Alumahide may not match as well.

E4-C92059-9611-43-C8-B363-05915-E62-CAF9a.jpg

uydfshjg.jpg
What I was implying was that matching any finish is challenging. I can "blend" a lot of things with Oxpho blue. That and spray on finishes. You will never match exactly the formula and weather conditions in the factory that given day much less age etc. How many batches on those Bluing Salts, tip on the sprayer etc. I've done a few museum pieces and let me tell you it's no picnic trying to blend a repair.
 

Johnnu2

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"I'm sure almost any attempt to repair will stand out way more than those tiny specks. If it bothers you that much send it to Bolen for a proper going over."

I believe he said "ALMOST" any attempt....!

Does that help.....?

J.
 

GasGuzzler

Hunter
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"I'm sure almost any attempt to repair will stand out way more than those tiny specks. If it bothers you that much send it to Bolen for a proper going over."

I believe he said "ALMOST" any attempt....!

Does that help.....?

J.
Not if you put "I'm sure" in front of it.
 
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The point I was trying to make is that even a factory repair with the exact same equipment and brand of product at some point years later probably won't be a perfect match. Go talk to a body shop about trying to match a years old factory finish. I figured that if these microscopic " defects " are an issue any deviation in texture and color would be World Ending.
 
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You want a challenge try to match a color case hardened finish. The texture of the charcoal and bone pieces along with other secret ingredients. I love Bolen's work with such things.
 
Joined
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keep them separate boys and girls it was about an "alloy" of aluminum, not the 'steel' of either the old model 'Super Bearcat' or the New Bearcats,,,,,and for steel, same thing as noted above , simply file/sand "flat" ( and square) and touch up as needed with any of the cold blues OR if you want to spend the money redo I finish) the entire frame,but I can tell you there is NO ONE I know, that can match the original "anodizing" of the aluminum metal, closest we've seen lately is "Ceracote" and that is what it implies, a "coating" so is "Alumahyde" and even any paint such as 'Krylon' matte or flat black,,we've done and used them all in our shops and they work and a LOT cheaper than sending it out for a "refinish" of the entire gun.......cannot tell you how many we've redone like the one pictured above with the guys "social security number" scratched into the frame .....( how would YOU like your SSN put out there on the internet for the whole world to see):cool::unsure::rolleyes:
 
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