End Shake Correction

[rkrcpa]

I've got a NM Blackhawk that needs to be refinished but before I do that I need to have the end shake corrected. What is the most common method used to accomplish this?

I know Brownells sells a gas ring stretcher for this purpose but is that the best method? Power Custom sells a base pin bushing kit, is that a better fix?

 

[flatgate]

IMHO, the gas ring stretcher would seem to only be a temporary fix as the bushing could/would be "hammered" back to a shorter length. Probably not so on a "small bore".

A new bushing is about the best fix I know of, short of a new cylinder.

A hardened bushing can be pressed in a bored out section within the cylinder and then the cylinder's OAL can be adjusted to fit the cylinder frame. One would probably end up with a tiny bit more B/C gap than what was "built" into the gun. Not enough to really effect performance, though.

JMHO,

flatgate

PS there are shims available, however they would be a pesky item to deal with when/if in a hurry...... I think.......??

 

[Montelores]

What are the endshake tolerances for Blackhawks and Single Sixes? And where does one make the measurement?

I sent a Single Six (NM, purchased new in 2009) back to the factory for a loading gate binding issue which I could not resolve and the service representative told me that they had replaced the cylinder due to excessive endshake (she might have said .009 - we had a poor connection). The endshake was not an issue which I had reported.

As a related aside, Ruger's service seems outstanding. The rep read to me exactly what had been performed on the revolver and exactly where it was in their facility. The report seems to have been entered into their computer system. They had had the revolver in their possession for exactly 1 week, and it was being prepared for return shipment.

Anyway, this is an endorsement of Ruger's service, if that helps.

Monty

 

[flatgate]

What are the endshake tolerances for Blackhawks and Single Sixes? And where does one make the measurement?

I use a "feeler blade" and measure the clearance between the cylinder bushing and the cylinder frame at the front of the cylinder, adjacent to the cylinder pin.

Spec's? I honestly don't know the Factory Spec's (I'm away from my Kunhausen book) but "tight is right", i.e. two or three "thou" w/o any binding....

JMHO,

flatgate

 

[Montelores]

Thank you, Flatgate.

Isn't the critical clearance the barrel-cylinder gap? One would think that would be the place to measure.

I will use your method on some revolvers and see what I find.

Thanks again, and hope that I am not hijacking this thread.

Monty

 

[flatgate]

One one hand, the B/C gap is most important, however the End Shake is one other important piece of the puzzle.

A gun with a large B/C gap may or may not shoot really accurately, however one with lots of end shake may not even fire.....

JMHO,

flatgate

 

[Montelores]

Thanks, Flatgate.

Monty

P.S. To the original issue: Yesterday, I received my S/S back from Ruger. New .22 LR cylinder (to correct excessive endshake which Ruger found), repaired transfer bar (which was causing binding on the loading gate, preventing movement, pawl replacement (part of the reported problem, apparently), and all new grip-frame screws.

Also, I had sent in a .22 Mag cylinder from another revolver which I had dropped (Doh!) on the tile floor (it bounced). Ruger Magnafluxed it, re-blued it, and return shipped it.

Charge for all: $0.00.

I had offered in my enclosed letter to pay any charges necessary (although the loading gate issue and the endshake issues should be considered warrantee work), but the other cylinder work should have been on me.

Great service from Ruger, and the revolver was returned to me within 2 weeks of my having shipped it to them. This is one reason why I will remain a Ruger customer and would not hesitate to send a gun to them for any type of service. Any charge from them would be absolutely reasonable.