Cleaning Stainless Cylinder Faces

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Oct 4, 2007
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I'm just wondering if anyone has come up with a way to reduce the carbon rings on the face of stainless cylinders. I was considering rubbing a light coat of mobile one grease to see if it would help during clean up. It's high heat resistant. Any reason this could cause a problem?
I know burn rings don't hurt anything but some of us like that clean cylinder face! Any idea's?
 
I just use hoppes 9 and a nylon brush myself . It takes a little elbow grease too. I know what you mean about the "clean " gun .
 
I'm not sure about reducing the carbon buildup, but i don't see why it would hurt to try it and see. I have had pretty good results cleaning using Flitz and elbow grease.
 
Go to an auto parts place and get a 6" X 9" Scuffing Pad. I use 800 grit. Works pretty good for me. Cleans them up pretty well. Takes some rubbing but it works. Cut Strips like 2" wide at a time and use them up. Goes a long ways. Last I bought were MasterPro Refinishing. Came with 3 pads in it. Mostly used for prepping paint jobs. The guy that turned me on to them recommended the ones that are deep purple. Place I went didn't have that color.
 
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I doubt highly that any grease is going to stop discoloration of the cylinder as there's just too much pressure. Any of the carbon removers or cleaning liquids should keep build up of carbon, lube, and lead down but the discoloration will still be there.

Like others have mentioned, an abrasive will get the color off. As you know, they are abrasive, even the lead away cloths. That said, Scotchbrite has many "grits" and they work well. Lead away cloths work good too and will impart a polish to the face over time. Depending on the finish of your revolver (brushed or polished), the lead away may not be best but it isn't terribly aggressive. The bronze brushes will get it too with more effort.

Find which removes the discoloration the quickest and is the least aggressive. Personally I use gray Scotchbrite and/or Lead Away cloths as the discoloration bothers me too even though it doesn't hurt anything.

My $.02 and YMMV...
 
Beware of heavy abrasives. Many folks here have used some of the scotchbrite pads to remove lettering, or to change the tone of the finish on a gun.
 
Also, if using Lead Away clothes - don't let them near a blued gun, they'll remove the bluing if you accidently grab it and start wiping down your blued gun.

I use a gun cleaner (#9 or whatever) and a stainless bristle brush, or a Lead Away if I get to the point that it bothers me. Normally I don't really worry about it on my shooters, it's a fact of life that it is going to happen. Clean it up good and pretty and the first time you shoot it it's back.
 
I don't know anything that would PREVENT the stains (except not shooting it) but will add that the lead away cloths work great for me with minimal elbow grease. I wrap it around a tongue depressor thingy and it works great.
 
I’m not a welder, but I’m pretty sure that I’ve heard folks discussing the use of “anti-spatter” products on the front face of stainless cylinders, in order to prevent stuff from accumulating.

Hopefully we have some welders here who can chime in, and say I don’t know what the heck I’m talking about! :P

Maybe something like one of these products?

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...0834&msclkid=a2c0da609c9a157f37b2855bd2cf6565

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/cata...erm=4580977758706227&utm_content=All Products

I’ve used lead remover cloths, brush/solvent, etc. Now I just leave ’em dirty, as long as there are no barrel/cylinder gap problems...
 
Lead Away is what I use too. I thought maybe the Mobile One would act as film and make it easier to clean up. I know a well oiled AR star chamber and bolt carrier group that's well oiled cleans up easier than a dry one. The carbon doesn't seem to be as hard.
I will continue to use the Lead Away.
 
I've not heard of using anything like Mobil One ahead of shooting to help in cleaning. BUT,, I'd say; "Why not try it?" It would be a cheap experiment.
 
Mothers Mag Polish works great! Dap on with Q-Tip, let sit a few minutes and wipe off. Seems to work better for me than Flitz. A+ on the lead removing cloths also.
 
57springer said:
I just use hoppes 9 and a nylon brush myself . It takes a little elbow grease too. I know what you mean about the "clean " gun .

Me too, except I use a brass brush - looks like a slightly oversized toothbrush and they work great. Open the cylinder and lay the gun on its left side, pointing to your right. Scrub the upper section of the cylinder face, turning it every so often. Check results. If there are still outlines of the carbon, continue for a while longer. When I'm done, the gun looks like it did when I bought it.
 
I used to care about the unsightly carbon rings around the cylinder holes on stainless guns. I used Semichrome Polish and a Dremel tool buffing wheel to remove them. I don't care anymore.
 
I've been using this for quite a few years and it works great for getting stainless cylinder faces clean with a minimum amount of elbow grease.......the cloth goes a long way, just cut a suitable size piece from the 6"x9" cloth.

https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Remover-Polishing-6-Inch/dp/B07VCGWP93
 
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