Cast Bullet Choice

StanMemTn

Single-Sixer
Joined
Feb 3, 2009
Messages
214
City & State/Province
Memphis, TN
As a new reloader, I'm still on the lookout for what will work best for me.

I'm loading .38spc and .357mag for use at an indoor range. To get started, I bought 200 of the only bullets I could find at Bass Pro Shop, the Hornady 140gr XTP.

I'm looking now for a good cast bullet. I'm interested in a SWC; I'm mostly seeing bullets of about 158gr in this type. I've searched online and seen what is offered by the following companies: Montana Bullet Works, Oregon Trail Bullet Co., Tennessee Valley Bullets, and Tru-Cast Bullets.

Does anyone have a recommendation for or against any of the above companies? I'm leaning toward Tennesse Valley due to cost and the fact that they are in the same state.

Any help, as always will be appreciated.

-Stephen
 
Well, that'll stir the pot.
158 grn is a common weight,, so no problem there.
Check the hardness & run the correct velocity for the hardness.
If plinking & practice are all you are looking for,, the you'll enjoy almost any company's bullet from the list above.
Cast bullets are definately a great way to shoot more often.
 
I shoot lots of cast bullets, as mentioned above cast bullets are an economical way to enjoy shooting.
As far as the cast bullet companies mentioned I have no experience with any of them I use M&P cast bullets a local casting company they are a lot more economical. ps
 
Oregon Trail bullets are harder than woodpecker lips; I suspect that they're probably equivalent to linotype in hardness. This means that they need to be driven hard (fast), in order to obturate to seal the bore. Gas-cutting and serious leading will result if they aren't driven hard.

Manufacturers prefer to make hard bullets because they don't deform during shipping. They have convinced a lot of people that bullets need to be that hard in order not to lead; it ain't necessarily so.

Some cast bullet manufacturers offer a choice of alloy hardness; if you're buying cast bullets, that's the route that I recommend.

Here's a good article on the subject: http://www.lasc.us/FryxellCommentsCBAlloys.htm
 
missouribullet.com
cheapest I have found and do not lead my barrels. Brad is owner and lists different bullet hardness for different loads.
 
I've used tn. valley bullets in .44 and was very happy with them. Good accuracy and little to no leading even when pushed hard. I think the owner is a member of this forum, goes by the name Papa. He's located in Scotts Hill, TN. Not too far from Memphis. That being said, you really can't go wrong with any of the choices you listed.
 
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Enigma":3gub4urx said:

Very cool. Great article. That article complemented what I've read about cast bullets in the Lyman's manual and in ABC's of Reloading. It seems like I'll be good with a bhn of about 12 to start.

After looking over things, I'm still leaning towards Tennesse Valley, and if the owner is a member of the Forum, that'll clinch it.

Another (newbie) question: several things I've read have indicated that inadequate bullet lube may be the main thing I should watch out for. Does the shipping of cast bullets affect the lube (as in does it wear or rub off in shipping)? Should I be watching for un-eveness of lubrication after shipping, and if so is there product I should have on hand to add to the lubrication?

Thanks for the responses on this thread and on my earlier thread about the best powder for a newbie to start with. I wouldn't be reloading if it weren't for this forum; the help offered here is great.

-Stephen
 
I found many years ago that my NMBH 357 liked 158 gr. over all other weights. I cast Lyman 358156 and size .358 and GC it . Over healthy doses of 2400, H110, or AA#9 it is good for anything. I've taken jack rabbits at a paced 175 yards and rock chucks at close to a hundred yards and it will do deer at any reasonable (50 yds) distance. I do not cast hard, air cooled wheel weights work best for all my handguns unless I want the bullets even softer, then I go 50/50 WW/PB. The same load and bullet works in my Marlin 1894 357.
 
Might want to check with the indoor range management first. Some of them do not allow cast bullet use. They want jacketed only used.

Another one to look at is www.magnusbullets.com
I have used them in the past with satisfaction and they use USPS Flat Rate Shipping.
 
"Manufacturers prefer to make hard bullets because they don't deform during shipping. They have convinced a lot of people that bullets need to be that hard in order not to lead; it ain't necessarily so". Amen! And I think they like to sell GC bullets for the same reason. An undersized, "too hard" cast bullet is a leading nightmare....(GC or not)
 
WESHOOT2":1towk0v1 said:
I used to buy mine locally; now I recommend the fine offerings from www.PennBullets.com

I didn't see this post when I posted earlier. There's a LOT of great info on this site. Definitely something the other newbies (I think there's a few of us right now) should check out.

Looks like the prices are reasonable too.
 
Check out Hornady, Speer, Remington, MagTech, and other bulk swagged bullets as sold by Midway and others.

For range work they are very consistent and work very well. I cheat a bit with the lube as I recoat mine with Lee LA lube.
I've used these in .357, and .45 caliber and they do work well.

Joe
 
Penn Bullets are good. Bullet fit is important. Should use size .001 or .002 over barrel. Usually 358 size will work for 38/357M, and you don't need them "hard".
 
Thanks for the input everybody, I've got 1,000 of Penn Bullets' 158gr truncated cone bullets coming. I got 500 of the cowboy alloy and 500 of the premium as I'm shooting .38spcl and .357mag; I guess that gives me one more option to play with.
 
On your inquiry involving bullet lube, I'd say that lube is sometimes the area where an otherwise excellent cast bullet manufacturer falls flat.

My Missouri bullets are excellent and uniform in size and weight, however, their super hard crayon lube is just not good. I often have chunks of it missing from the lube grooves.

I still get leading in the first inch of my barrel, after reaming cylinder throats and playing around with BHN and powders/pressures. I'm thinking it may be a lube issue, so I've started re-lubing with Lee liquid Alox. Have yet to do an extensive test, but initial results look positive.
 
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