blackhawk hammer drag

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Grim Reaper

Bearcat
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Feb 11, 2008
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Dixie
Hi all.
I have always owned "old model" blackhawks and super blackhawks.
I know a little about the old model guns and how to work on them.
I got a new model convertible in a trade the other day. The gun just did not feel as smooth as I thought it should. NO PROBLEM! I went to take it apart. This is different than what I know. NO PROBLEM!. That's why Al Gore invented the internet .
OK, I told you all that to tell you this. It seems to me that the hammer is dragging. I have had this gun apart six times. I have the trigger/ hammer fit just about where I want it. I noticed that the hammer had rub marks on it, on the sides. I worked the hammer and the frame down to where there are no more drag marks, but the hammer is still not smooth. I lightened the hammer spring and it REALLY didn't like that. So. I increased the tension on the hammer and it works OK, but not smoothly. What am I missing?
 
Grim Reaper said:
What am I missing?
Click to expand...

The New Models are incredibly more "complex" to deal with than were the "Old Models."

I'll simply suggest that you study the "workings" prior to filing/stoning any of the components.

It ain't "Rocket Science, but, it takes some dedicated effort.

JMHO,

flatgate
 
You might get you a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's The Ruger Single Action Revolvers, A Shop Manual, Volumes 1 and 2 which are all in one softbound book. Has a wealth of info. on both the Old Model and the New Model Blackhawks.
Is your convertable brand new or used? If used, no telling what might have been done to it to make it feel rough. Sometimes, the grip frame doesn't match up just right to the cylinder frame which makes for hammer binding. (just throwing things out here you might have overlooked). Also check where the hammer plunger rubs against the back surface of the cylinder latch; also could be the rear surface of the trigger sear where the hammer rubs against it as the gun is being cocked. There are several other possiblities as well.
 
Yes, good info by texaswheelgunner. Since you've leaned to disassemble the New Model now you're ready to get down to business...

I've seen where the grip frame pinches the hammer. I've seen the hammer scrape on the sides of it's slot in the cylinder frame. Lightly polish the pivot pins and their bores in the hammer and trigger and cylinder latch. Polish the mainspring strut, the insides of the mainspring seat and the hole in the hammer where the strut rides. As mentioned above, the back of the trigger rides on the lower portion of the hammer. Polish these areas.

flatgate
 
As a last result, Power Custom is now offering hammer shims for the Ruger single action revolvers. It might make reassembling one a bit of a 3-handed proposition, but it could conceivably solve your problem.
 
Thank you all for your input. I am really not a big fan of the new models.
As far as the condition of the gun, I bought it from a club member that I know really well. You could look at the gun and tell that it had never been worked on. I dare say it had less than a box of shells through it
I have slicked up everything I can. But, I know it will be comming apart one more time.
I also noticed, as someone pointed out, the spring that comes out of the bottom of the hammer (that rides on the cylinder stop) is pretty stiff. The cylinder has developed a turn ring that is pretty wide and looks really bad. It also starts before the concave that leads to the lock. Is this a timing issue?
I have ordered a set of springs for the gun. Maybe that will help.
I have the books someone mentioned. They are of little use to me. I had to come to the internet to understand how to disassemble the gun.
OK, enough rambling. Thank you all for your help. I will let you know what I find out.
Thanks, John
 
Grim Reaper said:
I also noticed, as someone pointed out, the spring that comes out of the bottom of the hammer (that rides on the cylinder stop) is pretty stiff. The cylinder has developed a turn ring that is pretty wide and looks really bad. It also starts before the concave that leads to the lock. Is this a timing issue?
Thanks, John
Click to expand...

You are referring to the Hammer Plunger and its' spring. Nah, the strength of that spring has NOTHING to do with the ringing of the cylinder. The length of the Hammer Plunger has a lot to do with the ringing of the cylinder!

The cylinder ring can be eliminated, right after one reblues the cylinder, by two methods. The "traditional method" is to lengthen the hammer plunger, via fabricating a brand new one that has a slightly longer "slot" and a significantly longer O.A.L. Trial fitting will discern the proper length. In lieu of that technique, I've been a big fan of welding up the cylinder latch's "leg" to delay the "timing" of the dropping of the cylinder latch. ALL my New Model shooters are thusly modified.

I probably have about an equal number of NM and OM shooters. All are a lot of fun to shoot.

A few pics for your amusement. NM .44 shooter......no cylinder ring....
157334697.jpg


OM .45 Colt shooter, no cylinder ring by design....
157334692.jpg


flatgate
 
Grim Reaper said:
I worked the hammer and the frame down to where there are no more drag marks, but the hammer is still not smooth. I lightened the hammer spring and it REALLY didn't like that.
Click to expand...
That's because you added slop, by removing the friction points. Power Custom shims are the answer, and they can be applied on both sides of the hammer & trigger. You will install the pins Right to Left and remove Left to Right, if you do this.

A machinist's square to check the facing on your sear surface and sear notch is not a bad idea.

Springs should be stock weight or greater.
 
The cylinder ring can be eliminated, right after one reblues the cylinder, by two methods. The "traditional method" is to lengthen the hammer plunger, via fabricating a brand new one that has a slightly longer "slot" and a significantly longer O.A.L. Trial fitting will discern the proper length. In lieu of that technique, I've been a big fan of welding up the cylinder latch's "leg" to delay the "timing" of the dropping of the cylinder latch. ALL my New Model shooters are thusly modified.


OK. I don't quite understand what you are saying about the cylinder latch's leg. It seems to me that lenghtening that leg would cause the latch to come up faster. Am I wrong?
Also, what type metal is the hammer plunger made of? Stainless?
Thanks again for your help and that of the others. I guess I'm gonna have to learn to read the book, Huh?

John
 
The rear of the latch is what needs to be built up, the part that the hammer plunger rides. Not the front portion that locks into the bolt cuts in the cylinder.
 
John, pick up a copy of Iowegans gun guide for the Ruger SA. It covers all your questions. Gary just printed up a new batch so get one while you can.
The plunger is stainless and a 3/32 drill bit works great for making a new longer one. Remember every hammer and cyl. latch can be different. You can make one up out of softer steel and get close but every one i've done is different. Same with welding up the cyl. latch.
The Ruger ring is part of owing a NM Ruger revolver.
Eric
 
WOW! So much infromation! Than you to all that replied. Eric, where might I get a copy of this new book?
Thanks again, John
 
Thanks Eric, I contacted him and I have got the money in the mail! Thanks again for your help. John
 
Grim Reaper said:
OK. I don't quite understand what you are saying about the cylinder latch's leg.
Click to expand...

OK, one picture is worth a thousand words, eh?

128518571.jpg


Not my image. "Acquired" from the internet..... :D

flatgate
 
At the risk of sounding stupid, I still do not understand how lengthening this will make the bolt come up slower.
I understood lenghtening the "leg". I got that, now explain how this works. If the bolt is on a pivot, does the cylinder stop not come up faster? What am I missing here?
And thank you so very much for your patience. I know it must be hard dealing with a hard head like me. Thanks again to all that have contributed. John
 
The hammer plunger activates the cylinder latch via contact with the "leg".
As the hammer is pulled back the hammer plunger begins to contact the leg which, since the cylinder latch is on a pivot, begins to open the latch so the cylinder can rotate. Now, on a standard length "leg" the hammer plunger looses contact with the cylinder latch leg and the latch snaps up well ahead of the "lock cuts" in the cylinder. Ah, but if the cylinder latch leg is extended then the hammer plunger remains in contact until just before the "lock cut" becomes aligned with the latch.

Careful study of the sequence of events while fiddling with an unloaded gun can reveal a lot of information. Try it sans cylinder, as well, but you'll have to have the base pin installed or the transfer bar will hang up on the back of the firing pin unless the muzzle is held up, well above horizontal.

:D

flatgate
 
Thank you once again for your patience and your help.
I think I finally got it. If you think this one has been fun, wait til you see my next post!!
Thanks again.
John
 
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