Bearcat timing

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Anonymous

My Single-Six and one Bearcat are timed the same, so I'll guess pretty darn close to perfect. There is a very hard to detect gap between the cylinder latch popping up, and the hammer clicking into full cock.

My other Bearcat has a definite gap between latching and full cock. The cylinder latch pops up when the hammer face still has another 1/16th or so to travel for full cock.

I know there is nothing "wrong" with it doing that, but what would one do to match it to the other Bearcat and Single-Six? I will assume it is a matter of removing a thousandth or two of metal, but where exactly? If not a major operation, I may do it.
 
Extend the hammer plunger's slot a tiny bit.......

OR...... shorten the second tooth on the pawl which will "slow" the cylinder's rotation.

Hint; pawls are easier to find than hammer plungers...... JMHO

flatgate
 
flatgate said:
Extend the hammer plunger's slot a tiny bit.......

OR...... shorten the second tooth on the pawl which will "slow" the cylinder's rotation.

Hint; pawls are easier to find than hammer plungers...... JMHO

flatgate

Thanl you sir. I have no problem on parts. I have everything but a frame, barrel, and cylinder. But, going by Ruger's exploded views, The New Bearcat does not have a hammer plunger (?), so the pawl is the only fix. I had thought that "a little off the top" of that second tooth would bring the notch in line a bit later. Just wasn't sure if that would affect other things negatively.

I wouldn't even have to disassemble the Bearcat. Even so, I think I'll leave it as is for now. That tiny difference gives me a little more wear before the lockup would be late......:roll:
 
flatgate said:
Your query stated Bearcat, not Super Bearcat or New Bearcat.

:D

flatgate

I guess i'm like some others on that, forgetting to be technically correct with "OM", "NM", or "New" in the case of a New Bearcat..... :D

Having a transfer bar, and no hammer plunger, are certainly the major differences on a New Bearcat. I suppose that would be a plus on getting Kuhnhausen's book, to understand hammer plungers and how the New Bearcat doesn't need one. Beats disassembling one just to study the mechanism.
 
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The cylinder latch in the "conversion kits" (and/or New Bearcat, same set of parts) is sorta timed "like a Colt".

A small "bump" is located on the lower portion of the hammer (between the half cock notch and the hammer pivot screw) and the cylinder latch's "spring arm" rides up and over as the hammer is cocked.

I've not "messed" with the timing of the latch on the "transfer bar" Bearcat conversions and cannot offer any "experienced advice". I'm sure someone here on Ruger Forum knows the methods.....

flatgate
 
bearcatter, My advice is to "leave" it alone! Unlike the plunger type hammers where you have plenty of "room" to make and/or modify plunger lengths, to govern latch manipulation with very little harm done if you get it wrong, (plungers are easily bought or made). There is very little to work with on that "hump" and very easy to screw your timing up in good shape! Same deal with the latch arm. You'de know what I'm talking about if you ever tried to "fix" somebody else's screw-up's. Don't mess with it unless you want to waste your money on new hammers or latches!.....................Dick :wink:
 
Pinecone-

I think the latch is fine, just the cylinder is a tiny bit earlier than the other guns. Six posts up, I decided to leave it, there's not a thing wrong with that slight difference. Ruger parts have a thousandth or two variation here and there that make these differences.

flatgate-

Thanks for the photo. I can somewhat "see" the parts interacting. Now I understand the two piece cylinder latch. I have all the parts new, I should get them out for a little study.
 
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