Kuhnhausen and You will be able to fix almost any issue with spare parts... but its a question of how deep you want to get and how much fun you have gunsmithing. I really enjoyed going through part by part to really slick up a security six, but not everyone enjoys that journey. if you are looking to save a headache, test a parts swap with minor fitting, and if that doesn't work, send it out.
1980 Ruger Speed Six - Timing Issue, could someone help me diagnose?
- Thread starter alrashid2
- Start date
Another way is to get a couple quarts non detergent motor oil and a pan big enough to put the parts and frame in. Let them soak over night use a nylon brush to scrub the parts, wipe them clean, spray them with wd 40 to remove the oil residue, wipe clean, reassemble and lightly oil the moving parts. Takes a bit more elbow grease and quite a bit messier, but works. I use CLR for the final wipe down, leaves a protective film after wiping it off.
One important thing I left out. If you go the Ultra Sonic route, be very careful what cleaning solution you put the aluminum grip frame in, as some solutions can damage aluminum. Promise I won't bother you any more!
The Six series grip frames are part of the frame, not detachable like on the Ruger Single actions (Blackhawk, etc.) They are all steel, not aluminum. For the ultrasonic cleaner, a 50-50 mix of water and 409 will work if you don't want to get a commercial firearms cleaning solution (they aren't cheap but they do the best job).
I use one called MC Gun Cleaner from the Chautauqua Chemicals Company, Ashville, NY. You only need 1 part cleaner to 40 parts water. It's safe on steel, aluminum, and polymers, and it's biodegradeable. I've used it for years in my gunsmithing business and it cleans ALL the gunk out of firearms. (I have no stake in the company, I found them a long time ago and will always use it to clean guns).
If you use an ultrasonic, I have found that the parts will get hot enough in the tank that once you pull them out and give them a quick spray of air or wipe them down to remove the majority of the solution, they will dry themselves out. Then you can inspect them and reassemble using your favorite gun oil where needed.
I use one called MC Gun Cleaner from the Chautauqua Chemicals Company, Ashville, NY. You only need 1 part cleaner to 40 parts water. It's safe on steel, aluminum, and polymers, and it's biodegradeable. I've used it for years in my gunsmithing business and it cleans ALL the gunk out of firearms. (I have no stake in the company, I found them a long time ago and will always use it to clean guns).
If you use an ultrasonic, I have found that the parts will get hot enough in the tank that once you pull them out and give them a quick spray of air or wipe them down to remove the majority of the solution, they will dry themselves out. Then you can inspect them and reassemble using your favorite gun oil where needed.
I stand corrected. got it mixed up with the single six. Sorry, man.
You don't by chance do caliber conversions o Blackhawks, do you?
Joey - No, sorry, I don't do caliber conversions on Blackhawks. My speciality is the Ruger Six series (Security Six, Police Service Six and Speed Six DA's). But I also do work on the GP100's, SP101's and Redhawks/Super Redhawks.
alrashid2 - I have a gunsmithing business that I have been running out of my home since 1997 (when I retired from the USAF). I am a FFL01/SOT3 (meaning I can also deal in suppressors, short barreled rifles/shotguns and full auto firearms. I do specialize in repairing/restoring the Ruger Six series revolvers. If you would like for me to work on your Speed Six you can send me a message and we can discuss it (but I think you need a few more posts before you can message me however - but I'll check). Sorry, I don't give out my phone number or email on an open forum, too many scammers and weirdo's look for things like that.
Edited: It looks like you need 15 posts to be able to message someone (it's actually called a conversation).
alrashid2 - I have a gunsmithing business that I have been running out of my home since 1997 (when I retired from the USAF). I am a FFL01/SOT3 (meaning I can also deal in suppressors, short barreled rifles/shotguns and full auto firearms. I do specialize in repairing/restoring the Ruger Six series revolvers. If you would like for me to work on your Speed Six you can send me a message and we can discuss it (but I think you need a few more posts before you can message me however - but I'll check). Sorry, I don't give out my phone number or email on an open forum, too many scammers and weirdo's look for things like that.
Edited: It looks like you need 15 posts to be able to message someone (it's actually called a conversation).
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Wow, that is awesome. I'm also in PA too so shipping wouldn't be so bad.
Yes I cannot send messages yet - maybe after this post I can? If not, I am OK posting my email for a bit for you to reach out to me. Thanks again Ron
Al
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Yes I cannot send messages yet - maybe after this post I can? If not, I am OK posting my email for a bit for you to reach out to me. Thanks again Ron
Al
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Hey, man
Need a few more posts? let's talk about speed sixs. never had one myself. how do you like yours?
Ha! Love it, thanks buddy. Always enjoyed my Speed Six - it was the first gun I ever bought! Super sad to see a "bulletproof" gun start giving me issues though especially since I've only put maybe 300 rounds through it in the last 4 years. Nothing I hate more than a gun I can't trust - so really hoping to get this figured out !
How about you?
Know what you mean. I was having lockup issues with a BH .357, Got on this forum and got some great advice. People here are willing to help.
Speed six was built as tough as all other Ruger revolvers, almost indestructible. But anything over time will show wear and have malfunction issues. Hope RPA can take care of you.
magnum0710
Single-Sixer
You're definitely in good hands with Ron.
As for the Speed Six (and Sixes in general) they're tough as nails. My 1974 Security Six locks up and shoots like new still, same with my 1985 Speed Six that had been neglected. It's rare that they do have an issue but credit where it's due the last Six was produced in 1988, they've been out of production for 37 years, your guns a 1980 that's a 45 year old revolver. If you've only had it 11 years that means it's had at least one other owner and God knows how many rounds it saw before you had it. 45 years and who knows how many rounds without a malfunction. That's pretty impressive.
You'll get it sorted out and it'll be good as new again. They're worth the effort. There's a reason they have the reputation that they do.
To answer Joey a little better if you've never had a Speed Six (or Security or Service Six) you'd be doing yourself a favor if you got one. The 2.75 versions are really the perfect carry 357. Not too big, not too small. My 4 inch is great too and makes a good woods gun. I'm sure a lot of guys can carry the 4 inch but I carry IWB so needed a shorter barrel.
Joey make sure that the surfaces under the ratchet/ejector star is devoid of debris buildup. Next make sure the recesses on the ratchet are free of debris buildup. Open the cylinder cock the hammer and clean the engagement surfaces of the hand. if it is still out of time, I would remove the firing module, on a Ruger it is easy, and clean and lubricate the entire mechanism and reinstall it to determine if just maintenance is the timing issue. If none of the above fix the issue call Ruger, they are easy to work with.
contender
Ruger Guru
Uhh Sam,, as noted above,, Ruger no longer supports the "Six" series of DA revolvers. Calling Ruger won't be the way to go.
But I agree that a serious cleaning,, may well help a bunch.
But I agree that a serious cleaning,, may well help a bunch.
A weak solution sodium hydroxide based cleaner in the purple jug from auto zone. Make sure whatever you use, doesn't have a phosphoric base. No 409, top job, read the label. If you use the sodium hydroxide base, don't put aluminum parts in it unless you want the finish stripped off.
Just another job for me. You know of aftermarket hands. Ron Power used to make longer thicker hand for S&W. Now that he has passed this source may have dried up. I once finished up a job lengthening the hand on a Colt Trooper that our PF started. It worked but a good bit of fitting.
I would spray the crap out of it with Brake Parts Cleaner from auto parts store...(or Gun Scrubber for more $$$). If you can't take it apart, spray into EVERY opening that is available. Then, spray some more. Follow with spray lubricant thoroughly. THOROUGH CLEANING WORKS WONDERS.
IMHO.......
J.
IMHO.......
J.
