Avoiding the cylinder "ring"

baronvoncatania

Bearcat
Joined
May 15, 2013
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80
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woburn, massachusetts
I hope you guys know what I mean, it's the ring that gets scribed around the cylinder when you rotate the cylinder.

Is there a way to avoid causing this?

Sadly it's to late on my Blackhawk. but just wondering how to avoid doing it on another gun.

thanks jim c
 
On a New Model Ruger it's not possible to avoid the turn ring unless you do some work on the bolt and timing. Not worth the effort unless you just really really don't like having a ring on your cylinder.

If the gun is a New Model, don't worry about it.
 
Jim,

Yes we know exactly what you mean and it's possible but most agree not worth the trouble. There's been a ton of discussion over this issue.

I don't mind the cyl ring at all but I do mind an excessively rough cyl stop bolt (many are rough on new guns right from the box) from gouging a groove into the cyl.

So I simply polish the bolt on all revolvers when I first get them. Takes one minute with a Dremel tool and goes a long way towards mitigating the ring. After that, I never think about the ring again.

If the ring really bothers you, there’s a cyl bolt plunger (in the hammer) modification that will eliminate the ring on new models from normal cocking. However, recognize w/o conscientious handling of new models, modified guns can still cause a ring.

Even if the hammer plunger is modified you can cause a ring if you drop the hammer w/o cocking all the way back 1st (a SA no-no!) or when you close the loading gate w/o a cyl notch being directly above the cyl bolt; as soon as you cock the hammer or turn the cyl into place to lock it, you scribe a ring just like on an old model.

That's the reason on unmodified guns that the line goes all the way around the cylinder. Because the cyl bolt only scribes a line starting 1/2 way between the notches in normal cocking and firing. The rest of the line is caused as stated above.

As you can see it can be futile trying to avoid the line.
 
Hey Guys

Thanks for the replies. I don't like the ring, but if it's a "normal" thing to expect, I guess I can live with it.

I do like a little bit of honest wear on a gun, I just don't tolerate abuse, or neglect.

Thanks again. jim c
 
Who care about a ring? I sure don't my guns get used, some have dings and scratches cause I use them for what they were made for, not going to sit around and worry about a scratch.
 
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Along with polishing the stop;
Chuck up the cylinder and turn it slowly, using an indexed Arkansas stone to create a polished "belt" around the OD where the stop contacts the cylinder.
Mag-Na-Port does this to a mirror-finish and it comes away looking pretty classy.

For a poor-man's approach: trace the cylinder groove using a black Sharpie... :wink:
 
You may also want to LENGTHEN the cylinder latch which will delay it's its upward motion into the leads on the cylinder. Do a search IIRC there are threads on this in the forum. ps
 
mohavesam said:
Along with polishing the stop;
Chuck up the cylinder and turn it slowly, using an indexed Arkansas stone to create a polished "belt" around the OD where the stop contacts the cylinder.
Mag-Na-Port does this to a mirror-finish and it comes away looking pretty classy.

For a poor-man's approach: trace the cylinder groove using a black Sharpie... :wink:

I have thought about sending the cylinder to a plating shop and having it hard chromed where the turn ring would occur......not for me, but for those who worry about such things. I suppose it could be done in colors too if so desired.
 
Well, a lot of shooters could give a darn if their Blackhawks and Single-Sixes "ring" the cylinder. Some of us think otherwise.

:D

flatgate
 
flatgate said:
Well, a lot of shooters could give a darn if their Blackhawks and Single-Sixes "ring" the cylinder. Some of us think otherwise.

:D

flatgate

As my Mother used to say...'each to his own.' 8)
 
Hondo, Too many Jim's, my PM was to Jim C (baronvoncatania) to tell him I would help if he ever wanted to make an Iowegan extended hammer plunger.
John
 
I wear ear protection when shooting, so can't hear it.

Bob Wright

Made me chuckle a little bit...

If you don't want a ring on the cylinder put it in the safe and never pull the hammer back, but really what would the fun be in doing that. Like others have said a ring on the cylinder of a New Model is something that is going to happen. Go enjoy your new pistol and don't worry about it.
 
To answer the OP's question in explicit terms...

The cylinder ring on a New Model is unavoidable without gunsmithing.

It is avoidable on an Old Model or anything with the Colt-style action if you simply avoid lowering the hammer from the half cock notch. Which also puts undue strain on the bolt. Very simple and no worry required. There's some good info on timing in this article:

http://outlawgrips.com/index_files/Page707.htm

More from people that "know":
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=20136.0
 
CraigC said:
To answer the OP's question in explicit terms...

The cylinder ring on a New Model is unavoidable without gunsmithing.

It is avoidable on an Old Model or anything with the Colt-style action if you simply avoid lowering the hammer from the half cock notch. Which also puts undue strain on the bolt. Very simple and no worry required. There's some good info on timing in this article:

http://outlawgrips.com/index_files/Page707.htm

More from people that "know":
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=20136.0

Craig.....I'm impressed. 8)
 
Just for reference, Freedom Arms recommends lowering the hammer on their guns from the 1/2 cock position to the "fired" position (hammer resting on the frame) and THEN rotating the cylinder CCW to index the chamber and the barrel, in order to avoid mis-alignment.

That is the recommendation from their manual, although a "Colt" style or Ruger OM should be handled differently.

Monty
 

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