Another cold blue ??

rugerjunkie

Hunter
Joined
Mar 15, 2005
Messages
2,048
Didnt want to hijack the other thread so...

Im refinishing a 2 piecs stock and on the forearm is an estucheon (sp) and i kinda sorta messed up the blueing when I sanded the stock. So I kept going and took it all the way down to bare metal.

Its such a tiny area but I think I should try something to blacken it again. I read about it being temporary in the other post. If thats the case , id be just as well off to paint it and spray the finish over the top.

The area im talking about consists of a ring 1/4" in diameter and maybe 1/16" wide. Sure wish it was brass then there would be no issue.
 
If it's not in a high wear area the cold blue will protect it...whether you'll be able to get a match to the original blue is another matter. That's about all I use cold blue for is small touch ups.

One of the keys to helping cold blue last is getting it good and wet with gun oil like the instructions recommend. I still would never blue large pieces with cold blue, but for touching up wear it's not bad.

Most paints don't hold up well on firearms...unless you're talking one of the high-tech spray finishes intended for firearms...and even most of those have a somewhat spotty reputation though I've never tried one myself so that's hearsay.
 
Thanks guys. Here is the part in question. About 1/4" in diameter and the ring is pretty thin. Im going to guess that it'd be best to try blueing before I start any staining and finishing?

 
Hmmmm....that's going to be a tough one. Can the metal piece be removed for blueing? Most any bluing chemical is likely to stain the surrounding wood if you try to blue it in place.
 
Im afraid of chipping/splintering out the stock if I remove it. Its pressed in.
Im going to be doing a very dark walnut finish so that will help hide any staining from the cold blue.
 
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I would not remove it either, too risky. You could cover it with a piece of masking taped. Then cut out a circle with an Exacto knife. That should keep any bluing solution off the wood. I use Oxpho blue cream from Brownells. It's much easier to control where it goes and it won't 'run' onto the wood.
 
Thanks guys. Looks like the oxpho would be a good choice for what I need to do. The problem...its out of stock and shipping is $15 for a 4oz bottle!? Gonna call Brownells and ask them about that and see if they have some other parts in stock i need to justify an order.
 

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