.480 rcbs seat/crimp issues....

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chefrob1

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got a new set of rcbs dies and while setting them up on my 550b i had an issue with 425gr performance cast either not getting enough crimp to chamber (and probably hold the bullet) or slightly "crushing" the case to make it fit the chamber. i backed out the seating die to adjust the crimp and then reset the seater several times. then i switched to the 375gr and perfect roll crimp with no "crush". since i'd rather separate the steps, i'm thinking about backing out the seat/crimp die (so i won't use the crimp feature) and just using it for seating and then either getting a redding crimp die or just another rcbs S&C die and pulling the seating stem out and using just for the crimp if this will work. i really don't care to go the Lee FCD route if i don't have too. OR can someone who has been through this same thing ( since i am far from unique) tell me what i'm doing wrong....since most of my difficulties in life are usually traced back to USER ERROR. :roll:
thx guys!
 

Jimbo357mag

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edit: I missed that you are using a Dillon progressive. To get those 425gr bullets loaded I would guess that you will have to use 2 dies. Maybe a call to RCBS could get you some help.
 

chefrob1

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i'll try both......just figured someone else had a similar issue getting that big chunk of lead in to the case. still leaning towards separating the steps and using the redding die.
 

6gun

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You just got to do a little more fine tuning back the crimp die off a bit if your crushing cases just a little at a time till you get it, be patient you can get it you may have to drop the seater plug down a bit as you raise the crimp it can be done your really close don't give up I know you can do it.

You may also find you need to readjust the seater going from 375gr. to 425gr. or different bullet types.
 

wdr2

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I load 480 on my Dillon 550B using Starline brass and my own cast bullets up to 410gr. I use a Hornady seat die (no crimp) with their micrometer in station 3 then an RCBS roll crimp die in station 4. The Hornady seater can be purchased separately.
Dillon's manual lists No. 7 locator pins for the 475/480. I use No. 4 pins for better alignment. I much prefer the RCBS expander to the one that Dillon supplies so I expand in a separate step. I hope this helps.
 

mikewriter

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I had the same problem with a single stage press (Lee). Instead of multiple efforts with the standard dies, I had Lee make a FCD (not available at the time) for .480, and it solved my problem.
 

chefrob1

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i really wanted to separate the steps so i ordered a profile crimp die from redding.......lets see how that works.
 

cmonti77

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I use the Redding Profile Crimp for loading 480 Ruger and 41 magnum. I used to do the same thing the OP described -- seating and crimping in one step with RCBS dies. I've since changed both my die sets to Redding after using their Profile Crimp. If you're loading single-stage anyway, it is definitely worth the extra step to crimp seperately. Additionally, profile crimp puts less stress on the case mouth, which in turn lengthens the lifespan of your cases.
 

Rick Courtright

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chefrob1 said:
i really wanted to separate the steps so i ordered a profile crimp die from redding.......lets see how that works.

Hi,

A lot of folks poo-poo this idea with handgun brass, and I'm not putting it out to start THAT war again, but you might consider trimming all your cases before you set up the Redding die. I use the Lee FCD, which Lee says isn't really sensitive to some differences in case length, but the fact is the less variation there is in case length, the better the results. This is one of the reasons people can run into problems seating and crimping in one step. I haven't used the Redding die but imagine it will be happier with more consistent case lengths, too. Which means you, in turn, will be happier as well!

Good luck!

Rick C
 

chefrob1

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rick...i'm all about being happy! well my redding profile crimp die (roll) came today and i backed out my rcbs seat/crimp die and set the seat. then worked the RPCD down until i got the crimp to where it chambers well. i may tinker with it until i am really comfortable with it. this is for a .480 SRH that i just got (from a fellow forum member) and have never shot. i will put through some factory loads @ 325gr to ensure the gun is sound then i think i will chamber and shoot a couple of my loads one at a time to see how they fair. then i will chamber a couple at a time to see if the crimp will hold and not lock up the cylinder. btw....no crush and the bullet sits nice in the brass so i think i may have solved the issue i had with the 425gr bullet. i don't reload riffle so i don't trim my brass.........yet. i have read the same what rick stated about the redding dies are not as tolerant as the lee FCD in regards to case length differences. any thoughts on a decent trimmer? thx for the replies/advice and keep 'em coming!
 

mikewriter

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I don't shoot many factory loads through my .480 SRH, but of what I have fired, the 325 gr Hornady ammo was fine, but the 400 gr they no longer produce gave me serious extraction problems, and the brass was not suitable to use for reloading - even took a different shell holder than the 325 gr ammo - or new Starline brass.

Mike
 

Rick Courtright

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chefrob1 said:
any thoughts on a decent trimmer? thx for the replies/advice and keep 'em coming!

Hi,

Rob, for your purposes, you could probably use any trimmer from the most basic to the most sophisticated. Since you're not as concerned with the absolute case length as having a consistent one, I'd suggest you look at Lee and see if they have a trimmer for the .480 (if not, well, we have to take a step up the ladder!)

Their trimmer design is fixed, in other words, you can't adjust it for length as you can the tools which work like small lathes. For most cartridges I've tried, it cuts 0.010" of an inch from the SAAMI drawing max. There's a cutter, a case guide, and a shell holder arrangement. The case guide screws into the cutter, while the case is placed in the shellholder. From there, you can do the job all by hand (time consuming and boring!) or you can secure the cutter and guide in a vise, put the shellholder in an electric drill, and really go to town. It's pretty idiot proof for what we're talking about here.

Once the cases are trimmed, you'll need a deburring/chamfering tool to clean the mouths up, inside and out. Here I don't really advocate the Lee tool, but suggest you get one of the bigger tools from any of several sources. Mine's a Lyman, but I'd swear RCBS and others get theirs from the same box and just stamp different names on them!

After your handgun brass is trimmed, you probably won't ever have to do it again. Unlike rifle brass, I've found my handgun brass doesn't stretch much. What trimmng does in my experience is to clean up the brass so it's all consistent, a big plus for crimping as you've already seen. And, while Starline is a well respected name, and I use a fair amount of it myself, it was their brass which taught me to size and trim the first time just like the rifle brass mfrs have recommended for decades. BTW, you probably already know this, but just for a refresher, size the brass first, then do your trimming. A buddy keeps gettting that backwards then complains when the results vary! ;)

Again, good luck!

Rick C
 

Enigma

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FWIW, Lee does make a trimmer setup for the .480. You would need to buy their large cutter, as their standard one is too small for the .480. Titan Reloading carries all the necessary bits.
 

chefrob1

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enigma....i'll check that out, thx!
dan....i usually buy dillon dies which separate those steps but they don't make one in .480. i like dillon since they are local for me and are 15 min away...hell, i can be there quicker in person than talk to someone on the phone..... :roll:
 
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