NM Blackhawk steel grip frame install

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Joey

Joey

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I just put a steel grip frame om my NM .45 Colt. Got it used from Numrich. Fit was close, the ears are 4-6 K high, gf protrudes 2-4 K
past main frame on the loading gate side.
.
thumbnail_IMG_0452.jpg

I'm not happy with the bluing. Quite a bit duller than the rest of the gun.
thumbnail_IMG_0450.jpg

Probably off a later model. Mine was born 1998. I have a stainless on order that will probably go on my .41 NM. It will probably need some fitting as well. I plan on fitting them at the same time, stripping the blued frame and get it re-blued to match.

Why does the loading gate turn plum? Not that I don't like it, I think it looks kinda good. Just wondering why....
thumbnail_IMG_0453.jpg

If anyone has any thoughts or advice on fitting these, I would appreciate it. I have read up on this in some of the other posts, but you can never get enough advice, or stop learning. Thanks.
 
All, or most, of mine were furnished in the white, so I fitted them then had them blued. This adjustable machinist's vise was awfully handy for positioning the gun as I filed:



Bob Wright
 
That vise is a great idea. I'll see if I can find one. My first thought was to get one in the white, then I found this one at a great price. The fitting won't be drastic, hardest part may be to get the ears right. One of the other posts advised picking up a used take-off, may not be any fitting needed. The original grip frame had about the same amount of offset as the new steel one. A friend told me he wouldn't worry about it, but I'm kinda anal. Once I see something out of line, my eyes are drawn to it whenever I look at it.
 
That particular grip frame appears to be coated / painted.
Pull the grips and study the innards of the frame closely.
Me, I would fit it and send it off for cerakote knowing it would not match the original blue of the gun,,, so maybe a complimentary color or just black.
Keep in mind All of Rugers with an aluminum grip frame are this way now.
Cerakote $50-75 so most likely there went the “good deal”,,, but cerakote is very durable.
 
In fact the grip frame appears to be a XR3-RED ALUMINUM frame, are you sure it's steel?
Pull the grips and take some pictures and give us one that is the entire gun.
We don't need the Grips in the picture.
 
The first pic is a magnetic light stuck to the frame. It says XRN-3on second picture, same as on the alu frame it replaced, just in a different location. Thie must be a Ruger manu frame.
 

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Here is the pic of the gun. I like the plum color as well, just didn't know what caused it, Thanks, Contender
 

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G2 said:
That particular grip frame appears to be coated / painted.
Pull the grips and study the innards of the frame closely.
Me, I would fit it and send it off for cerakote knowing it would not match the original blue of the gun,,, so maybe a complimentary color or just black.
Keep in mind All of Rugers with an aluminum grip frame are this way now.
Cerakote $50-75 so most likely there went the "good deal",,, but cerakote is very durable.
Click to expand...
The original frame was painted alu, as you noted. Not quite as dull as this one. Either way I would have had to have it blued or finished in some way.
 
Vise is on order. Thanks again Bob. Will also be handy for other projects. I have an armorers vise on my bench, but it rotates instead of tilts. Great for cleaning, scope mounting, general repairs. I have 4 files of various sizes. May pick up a couple more, along with some sandpaper, maybe a couple tubes of elbow grease.
 
I went with a cheap steel frame as an intro into fitting/mounting, rather than mess up an expensive Powers or RW frame. This is apparently a Ruger manu frame a previous owner bought fitted and finished. Some way it got to Numrich as a used item. Midway has this frame in the white. I magnified the photo, has the XRN-3 in same location. So most of the work was done, just some detail fitting, stripping and blueing.
When these two are complete I plan on putting a SS or brass frame on an OM BH. Again would rather learn on a new model.
 
I have fit a bunch of grip frames- both Ruger and Ronnie Wells frames. Brass, aluminum, and stainless steel. I have never had to refinish a gun when installing a grip frame. It’s not easy, but the results are great.

I start by using a magic marker to blacken the mating surfaces of the new grip frame. This step may not be necessary on a frame that is already blued. I then install the grip frame, all 5 screws, fully tightened. Take a scribe, or a sharp seeing needle and scribe a line on the overhang of the new grip frame. Be careful what you use as a scribe- you don’t want to use anything that will scratch the main frame. Most sewing needles are polished and work great.

1731519041260.jpeg


1731519089030.jpeg


Now the hard part. Start sanding down to the line. If you have a lot to remove (factory unfitted Ruger stainless frames come to mind) you can carefully start with a belt sander. But it will remove material fast so be careful. Basically from this point on the procedure becomes: sand a bit, check fit, remove and sand more , repeat until you can’t feel the edge. Now polish/reblue the grip frame and you’re done!

1731519151037.jpeg


1731519184882.jpeg


Why change grip frames? Some want steel instead of aluminum. Some of us have big hands and like a larger grip frame, like a Super Blackhawk. Others like the look of a custom ftame. Heres a few pics…

Super Blackhawk stainless Hunter on a Single Six:
1731519350759.jpeg


Another Super Hunter on a New Vaquero:

1731519494758.jpeg


Ruger Bisley on a Blackhawk:

1731519562109.jpeg


Ronnie Wells “Dealer” on a flat top .44SPCL. Bisley trigger guard and trigger, Super hammer, and other stuff…

1731519755963.jpeg
 
The grip frames Ruger supply's with the Blackhawk is aluminum, or alumineum, depending on where you are from. These alu. frames are light weight painted and do not match the blued steel main frame and barrel. Same with the stock ejector shroud. This one now has a steel shroud, from Ruger. Looks and feels more like the Colt SA Army, etc.
As far as function, has no effect on it. Adds a bit more weight, which some say helps their shooting. Guess it depends on what you like, redhead or blond, Chevy or Ford, et al.
 
Randyzzz said:
I have fit a bunch of grip frames- both Ruger and Ronnie Wells frames. Brass, aluminum, and stainless steel. I have never had to refinish a gun when installing a grip frame. It's not easy, but the results are great.

I start by using a magic marker to blacken the mating surfaces of the new grip frame. This step may not be necessary on a frame that is already blued. I then install the grip frame, all 5 screws, fully tightened. Take a scribe, or a sharp seeing needle and scribe a line on the overhang of the new grip frame. Be careful what you use as a scribe- you don't want to use anything that will scratch the main frame. Most sewing needles are polished and work great.

View attachment 58454

View attachment 58455

Now the hard part. Start sanding down to the line. If you have a lot to remove (factory unfitted Ruger stainless frames come to mind) you can carefully start with a belt sander. But it will remove material fast so be careful. Basically from this point on the procedure becomes: sand a bit, check fit, remove and sand more , repeat until you can't feel the edge. Now polish/reblue the grip frame and you're done!

View attachment 58456

View attachment 58457

Why change grip frames? Some want steel instead of aluminum. Some of us have big hands and like a larger grip frame, like a Super Blackhawk. Others like the look of a custom ftame. Heres a few pics…

Super Blackhawk stainless Hunter on a Single Six:
View attachment 58458

Another Super Hunter on a New Vaquero:

View attachment 58459

Ruger Bisley on a Blackhawk:

View attachment 58460

Ronnie Wells "Dealer" on a flat top .44SPCL. Bisley trigger guard and trigger, Super hammer, and other stuff…

View attachment 58461
Click to expand...
Randyzzz said:
I have fit a bunch of grip frames- both Ruger and Ronnie Wells frames. Brass, aluminum, and stainless steel. I have never had to refinish a gun when installing a grip frame. It's not easy, but the results are great.

I start by using a magic marker to blacken the mating surfaces of the new grip frame. This step may not be necessary on a frame that is already blued. I then install the grip frame, all 5 screws, fully tightened. Take a scribe, or a sharp seeing needle and scribe a line on the overhang of the new grip frame. Be careful what you use as a scribe- you don't want to use anything that will scratch the main frame. Most sewing needles are polished and work great.

View attachment 58454

View attachment 58455

Now the hard part. Start sanding down to the line. If you have a lot to remove (factory unfitted Ruger stainless frames come to mind) you can carefully start with a belt sander. But it will remove material fast so be careful. Basically from this point on the procedure becomes: sand a bit, check fit, remove and sand more , repeat until you can't feel the edge. Now polish/reblue the grip frame and you're done!

View attachment 58456

View attachment 58457

Why change grip frames? Some want steel instead of aluminum. Some of us have big hands and like a larger grip frame, like a Super Blackhawk. Others like the look of a custom ftame. Heres a few pics…

Super Blackhawk stainless Hunter on a Single Six:
View attachment 58458

Another Super Hunter on a New Vaquero:

View attachment 58459

Ruger Bisley on a Blackhawk:

View attachment 58460

Ronnie Wells "Dealer" on a flat top .44SPCL. Bisley trigger guard and trigger, Super hammer, and other stuff…

View attachment 58461
Click to expand...
Those are some good looking guns, Randy. Are the grips from RW as well? I did not know they made stainless grip frames
 
Joey said:
Those are some good looking guns, Randy. Are the grips from RW as well? I did not know they made stainless grip frames
Click to expand...
The stainless frames are factory Ruger. The last one is from RW, as is the brass one in the first few pictures. Ronnie currently only works in Brass and Aluminum. He has teased of Stainless but that has not materialized. He's got a lot on his plate- I spoke with him a week back and he has so many irons in the fire…

The grips in these pictures are from Chigs Grips, except for the Micarta is from Ronnie and the Bisley has a set of Hogues. Ronnie has some nice random walnut, and also some other specialized wood. He recently sent me a set of walnut grips that should be amazing.

Ronnie's frames are quite easy to fit. There's minimal overhang to remove. Some of the Ruger factory frames have a ton to remove, comparatively speaking. Also, Ronnie's brass and aluminum are very easy to work- they cut quickly. The Ruger factory steel and stainless take quite a bit of effort if they are the raw ones from Midway or Brownells. A used frame is usually pretty close, and a lot less effort.
 
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The Bisley on the BH, is that a RW alu or blued steel? Do you do your own blueing or farm it out? I will have to have this frame blued after fitting. Trying to decide if I want to do my own, or send it to someone. Last gun I blued was when I was 12 years old, did a H&R single shot 12 gauge my grandfather gave me. Turned out pretty good to my young eyes. would love to see it today. Fell victim to a B&E.
 
The Bisley is a Ruger frame. Actually a stainless frame that I had Cerakoted Elite Black, E100. It is a little “duller” than the rest of the gun but not much. Cerakote calls it eggshell. I asked the applier to get it as glossy as possible. One heck of a durable coating though- I use that same coating on the windshield and door hinge bolts on my Jeep. You can see the finish fairly well here-

1731525711726.jpeg
 
Randyzzz said:
The Bisley is a Ruger frame. Actually a stainless frame that I had Cerakoted Elite Black, E100. It is a little "duller" than the rest of the gun but not much. Cerakote calls it eggshell. I asked the applier to get it as glossy as possible. One heck of a durable coating though- I use that same coating on the windshield and door hinge bolts on my Jeep. You can see the finish fairly well here-

View attachment 58474
Click to expand...
Beautiful job! Can hardly tell it from bluing. Their is a gun shop a coupla' 3 miles away that put in a corakote booth a while back. That is a fantastic idea. Thanks much, for the info and the pictures.
 
Joey said:
Beautiful job! Can hardly tell it from bluing. Their is a gun shop a coupla' 3 miles away that put in a corakote booth a while back. That is a fantastic idea. Thanks much, for the info and the pictures.
Click to expand...
No problem! Cerakote also has a gloss black, but not in their Elite line. So it's not quite as durable. I may try it on the frame I'm planning on my New Vaquero which has a high polish blue on the barrel and cylinder. But otherwise, that E100 is the hot ticket.

Also, in case you’re curious- the E100 is so hard that when I tried to hand polish a sample piece with Blue Magic, it didn’t phase it.
 
G2 suggested corakote. Haven't had any experience with it. But after seeing your pictures, that's about to change.
 
"What is with these changing grip frames? Doesn't Ruger supply a grip frame with every gun they make? Why change it?"

First thing that came to mind was; "Fit & Comfort!"
As an instructor,, I tell people to get a gun that fits THEIR hands, and is comfortable to handle AND shoot. Since different people have different hand sizes, and shapes,, no "one size fits all!"

After that,, some people just like a type or shape or material not offered by the factory.
 
Joey said:
Gaugus! Simply Gaugus! Did you do the fitting/install yourself? Who did the grips?
Click to expand...
Ronnie sends the grips semi-fit. I do the final fitting and finishing.

The last pic of the Super Bisley has not been fully fitted nor finished yet. I expect those grips to be spectacular once they are done.
 
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larry8 said:
What is with these changing grip frames? Doesn't Ruger supply a grip frame with every gun they make? Why change it?
Click to expand...
In my case its about weight. A steel gripframe is about 6 ounces heavier than an alumonum one helping with recoil. Also I like the balance correction steel gives to a nose heavy blackhawk. Lastly I prefer stainless Bisley or Dragoon because they fit my hand better and a scratch is repaired easily.
 
My SS GF came in Friday, vise arrived yesterday, SS ejector shroud is coming tomorrow. Will get the vise mounted tomorrow, and get to work. Will probably do the steel frame first, so I can get it on schedule for finish.
 
Got vise mounted today, and decided to practice on the original aluminum gf. Got my files and sandpaper. This is after about 4 hours working it down, 2 hours polishing it. Learned a lot. Got the ears a bit low, glad it's a practice frame. Will start the steel frame tomorrow. I would say it will take a bit more time, and a lot more patience. I talked to a friend who is a gunsmith, he does corakote, but only for certain people. Didn't say if I qualified....... He says it's a PITA to do. I will probably have it done in a shop that does it. I have to figure out how to strip the steel frame first. Any suggestions?
 

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Randyzzz said:
The Bisley is a Ruger frame. Actually a stainless frame that I had Cerakoted Elite Black, E100. It is a little "duller" than the rest of the gun but not much. Cerakote calls it eggshell. I asked the applier to get it as glossy as possible. One heck of a durable coating though- I use that same coating on the windshield and door hinge bolts on my Jeep. You can see the finish fairly well here-

View attachment 58474
Click to expand...
The shop said they have an Elite E100 Blackout. Is this the same as Black E100? Thanks. I have the frame ready to take in. The vise worked great.
 
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