What Works?

Lance0812

Bearcat
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
87
City & State/Province
St. Louis, MO
I recently purchased a used SS NM Blackhawk and not I'm wondering whether there is a reliable way to make it spotless.
Areas of concern (after firing some dirty ammo) are the front of the cylinder and the frame in which the cylinder sits.
Is there any way to get rid of powder burn and get these parts back to their original pristine condition?
 
If you take some small pieces of this chemically treated cloth or similar it will wipe away any trace of powder burns or lead residue. I recommend rubber gloves. Use only on a stainless gun or in the bore and chambers with a jag. 8)

leadaway.jpg


...jimbo
 
Jimbo's suggestion of the Lead Away cloth is a good one. You can also use Flitz metal polish on stainless weapons as well.

Kenny
 
Thanks for the suggestions.
Today I found a Birchwood-Casey Lead Remover and Polishing cloth.(Probably same thing as the LeadAway Cloth.)
Worked great to remove the burn rings from the face of the cylinder but the real surprise came when I cut some patches from the cloth and ran them through the bore and cylinder of what I thought was a clean gun.
Lots of carbon(?) still in there!

Can't recommend it to everyone as it can be harmful to blued or CCH surfaces, but if you're cleaning SS it works great!
 
Send it to a place that applies new finishes.
When it returns mount it in a glass-lidded display case.

Spotless......



Caution: Continued heavy use of Lead-Away patches through the bore will affect accuracy; use sparingly, and clean thoroughly with conventional products after using in bores.

I make and use them myself, but rarely. After cleaning a bore with them, I clean the bore anally (please no comments other than gun-related) with conventional products until it is literally squeaky clean, THEN I treat bores with a patch saturated with Tetragun Oil, until excess drips from the bore. Then I let it dry; it can even take a few days.
AFTER it dries, I run a clean dry patch through, and commence shootin'!

Works for me......
 
Just to add, you can use Mother's Mag polish too. It works very well in removing those black rings, and it also polishes the gun to a wonderful shine. A couple of beers, a good movie, two rags and the Mother's, and soon you have a nicely shined SS handgun. Works on nickel too!
 
Sounds like the new gun is going to be a safe queen if it has to be that clean :) . What doesn't come off with a couple wipes of Hoppes #9 stays on.

Anyway, now get out there an' find out how it shoots. That is the important thing!
 
All my handguns are stainless. I use the Birchwood Casey, or Hoppe's, lead remover cloth, same difference. Revolver cylinder face and forcing cone areas can be a pain to clean. I've never used the cloth on a bore.

Make sure you keep the cloth sealed tight in the original bag or a replacement zip lock. It won't work well dried out.

One tip on the cylinder face, I wrap the cloth around an old credit or gift card, works good on the flat surface, gets into the crease of the pin boss better. On the forcing cone, I wipe as best I can, wait a few minutes, and use a toothbrush type brass brush. Cotton swabs and No.9 to finish.

Watch out with the polishes. They are abrasive and gradually remove metal, even if only a few millionths of an inch at a time. They are useful at first, removing fine machining marks, making the area easier to clean next time.
 
Rclark said:
Anyway, now get out there an' find out how it shoots. That is the important thing!
I did!
That's how it got dirty!
Win White Box in .357 was probably the culprit: I've had dirty WB in other calibers.
And I'm not going for a mirror finish so polishing with Mother's isn't on the table.
P.S. It shoots good!
 
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