What To Do With This

Mike J

Hawkeye
Joined
Aug 5, 2007
Messages
5,337
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GA
So a while back I noticed a guy had put up an old Marlin/Glenfield model 25 for sale. It was priced pretty inexpensively so I picked it up. The bluing doesn't look bad for a 45 year old .22 & the bore is nice & bright. The finish on the wood is just about wore completely off though. I shot it yesterday & I was getting about 4" groups at 50 yards with it rested on a rolled up jacket on the back of my truck with iron sights. I'm pretty sure it is capable of better. Now I'm trying to decide whether to just leave it like it is or take the time to steam out the dents in the stock, clean it up , & put an oil finish on it. What do ya'all think? Is it worth the trouble?

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Go for it Mike, it will give you something to look forward to....Up date with pics when your done.
 
SAJohn said:
I would first try to determine why the terrible accuracy. The first suspect would be loose sights.

More likely the loose nut behind the trigger. I had been messing around with zeroing a scope on another .22. After I got it zeroed I shot this a few times but to be honest I rushed it as I was wanting to test more for function than anything else and it was close to the end of my range session.
 
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As for the rest of ya'all you are a terrible bunch of enablers. I took the action out of the stock & the stock is out in the garage with stripper on it now. Now I've got to decide which type finish to use.
 
Mike J said:
As for the rest of ya'all you are a terrible bunch of enablers. I took the action out of the stock & the stock is out in the garage with stripper on it now. Now I've got to decide which type finish to use.
Yep Mike you got us pegged :mrgreen:
gramps
 
If it were me since there is no checkering to deal with would be to use a satin poly finish then buff it. It will give a nice shine but nowhere near a gloss finish and really make the grain details pop out. I like the outdoor poly because its tough and some may disagree , but I think its easy to repair a spot if needed.
 
OK, I'm late to this party but I'd refinish it just because I could. As for a finish, it's really up to you. I'm in favour of a good oil finish, like linseed oil. But that's just a personal preference.
 
wizofwas said:
OK, I'm late to this party but I'd refinish it just because I could. As for a finish, it's really up to you. I'm in favour of a good oil finish, like linseed oil. But that's just a personal preference.

I have to disagree with BLO as a finish. It's the softest and least protective of any finish except wax. It's easily penetrated by water/water vapor and requires constant refreshing. A wipe-on varnish such as Formby's or other thinned poly+oil finishes are far better. A simple recipe for making a wiping varnish is equal parts mineral spirits, polyurethane and linseed or tung oil. 4 or 5 coats and you're gtg.
 
I would suggest you try a variety (I know, that's not easy these days) of ammo to see what it likes best. You could be amazed by the results. :wink:
 
rugerjunkie said:
If it were me since there is no checkering to deal with would be to use a satin poly finish then buff it. It will give a nice shine but nowhere near a gloss finish and really make the grain details pop out. I like the outdoor poly because its tough and some may disagree , but I think its easy to repair a spot if needed.

Well, When I was looking to put a finish on my new walnut stock that I had fitted to my Stevens Favorite Model 1915, Somebody suggested using Watco Danish Oil Finish (I used a Medium Walnut) and then several coats of Minwax "Wipe-on Poly". I let it cure between coats and the lightly sanded with 1000 grit paper before the next coat. It turned out BEAUTIFUL !!!
I may think some day about refinishing the stocks of my Enfield .303's too !

Good Luck .
 
Hi,

I've redone some "beater" stocks with a 50-50 mix of satin polyurethane and mineral spirits, wiped on. I used the interior poly cuz I had a whole bunch of it but would use the exterior flavor if I had to buy more. After each coat, rub down gently with with 0000 steel wool and wipe with a rag and mineral spirits as a tack cloth to get any steel fibers off. Repeat until there are 4 or 5 coats, then finish with steel wool again. If desired, a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax adds a little sheen without making things too shiny.

Looks like an oil finish, but much more durable... plus it's cheap and easy, two major requirements for a lot of my projects! ;)

Rick C
 
Stock was sanded to 400 grit
3-4 coats (i forget) of Deft satin outdoor poly
No sanding between coats
Let it sit a few days
Sanded with 220 to take out some of the orange peel
Hit it with a buffing wheel
Sanded lightly with 400 to take out any leftover peel
Buffed again
I use 3M automotive compound
Makes one heck of a mirror like finish and the small amount of sanding is way easier than any wipe on method


 
I like projects if you enjoy seeing fruits of your labor do it.
Fun especially in the winter time watching it blow outside
and in a warm space enjoying the day. ps
 
Well, When I was looking to put a finish on my new walnut stock that I had fitted to my Stevens Favorite Model 1915, Somebody suggested using Watco Danish Oil Finish (I used a Medium Walnut) and then several coats of Minwax "Wipe-on Poly". I let it cure between coats and the lightly sanded with 1000 grit paper before the next coat. It turned out BEAUTIFUL !!!
I may think some day about refinishing the stocks of my Enfield .303's too !

Good Luck .[/quote]

This formula has worked well for me on a number of stocks and other wood refinishing products. I'm a big fan of the Watco Danish oil finishes.
 
I stripped most of the old finish off last night. Today I had some running around to do. I start a new job Monday & I had to go do paperwork, drug test, etc. today so I can work then. I managed to spend an hour or so on it before family came to visit this evening. I steamed some dents & worked more of the old finish off. Kinda interesting it appears someone put on a really thick coat of varnish or stain of some sort over the factory finish. They didn't steam dents or sand unless maybe they roughed it up a little to get the newer finish to stick. It is obvious because the darker finish is imbedded anywhere there is a dent. Also a line where it appears someone left a factory sticker on for a long time before taking it off on one side of the butt. It isn't in as bad as the old Spanish Mauser I redid years ago but it has seen rough use.

Thanks for the suggestions on the finish. Once I get it closer to being prepared I'm going to make a decision.
 
I've been thinking about the accuracy. I do think most of the problem was me being tired. I had just zeroed a cheap scope I was given on my old model 60. I used standard pressure CCI in it because I had zeroed the scope with Winchester 555 bulk but I only have one box of it right now so I want to keep it to use with the scope. The standard pressure CCI actually reminded me of an old Winchester pump gun I had years ago that only shot shorts. There were a couple of times I heard the shot go off & a split second later I heard the bullet impact the target. I wish I still had that old Winchester. It is the gun I regret letting go of the most.
 
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