Want to get into reloading but...

donut757

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East Coast, VA
I really dont know where to start. Id like to start reloading .38/.45 acp mainly and possibly 9mm.

I really have no clue as to what i should start looking nto getting to have a decent set up. I wont reload 1000's of rounds a year per caliber but would ike to be able to do a few hundred here and there.

I have seen a lot of reloading kit but dont know what im really look at or for. I have no experiences reloading and want to get some ideas of what i will need and a ballpark figure on the costs of reloading equipment, bullets, powders and so fourth.

Thanks for any help guys.
 
Ruger Packer said:
First off, I'd suggest you get 2 or 3 reloading manuals and study them. 8)

Ask questions here and you'll get some good advice.

+1 on at least a couple of manuals and study before starting. :)
 
Try to find someone who reloads, and spend some time with them to get a feel for it. The Lee aniversary loading kit is a good deal for starting out, it comes with almost everything you need except dies and shellholders without a big investment. And if you decide to upgrade to a turret or progressive later, it is still nice to have at least one single stage press for depriming and such.
 
I got started in reloading by buying a "Lee Loader" in .38/357, like the one here: http://cgi.ebay.com/Lee-Classic-Lee...761?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a4b1a2a1

I also bought a pound of powder, a box of primers and a box of lead bullets. The Lee Loader was under $10 at the time. It wasn't long before I bought a single bullet mold, a set of mold handles, a dipper and a cast-iron lead pot.

Now that I had all the bullets I wanted melting down wheel weights, I figured out how to use my drill press instead of a hammer to resize, deprime, and prime the cases then to seat a new bullet and crimp the case.

Now I have slowly accumulated enough reloading equipment to make the evening news if for some reason the local channel got into my shop. But, truth be known, I never had as much fun with it as when I was churning out .38's one round at a time.

As with any other hobby, try to avoid (as they call it in boating) two-foot "itis". Start as small and cheap as you can, decide if you want to make it a hobby, then buy the last press you will ever want or need. Mine is a Dillon 550 and I heartily recommend something like this unless you have a Class Three weapon. There's a lot of good equipment out there in the same category.

Until then, check out a Lee Loader. JMHO.
 
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As Ruger Packer and 96/44 said a couple of good manuals to go through and some one's shoulder to look over. I didn't know a soul who reloaded when I got started but with a couple of manuals I found out what I needed to get started. Always keep one thing in mind, what you are doing is putting together hopefully is a "controled explosion". Keep that in mind and your mind on what you're doing and never exceed what the manuals are telling you.
 
donut757 said:
I really dont know where to start. Id like to start reloading .38/.45 acp mainly and possibly 9mm.

I really have no clue as to what i should start looking nto getting to have a decent set up. I wont reload 1000's of rounds a year per caliber but would ike to be able to do a few hundred here and there.

I have seen a lot of reloading kit but dont know what im really look at or for. I have no experiences reloading and want to get some ideas of what i will need and a ballpark figure on the costs of reloading equipment, bullets, powders and so fourth.

Thanks for any help guys.

For a press Id suggest the Lee Classic Turret Press.
https://factorysales.com/html/xcart/catalog/classic.html
Bout half way down the page.
On sale for $85 right now.
I just got mine a few days ago and its really...REALLY easy to set up and use. Almost idiot proof (thank God).

You can get extra turrets for under $15 each for if you want to set up different dies for various rounds.
The turret literally just slips right out the top of the frame, and a different one could go right back in....maybe 5 seconds to switch them out !

This is my first real press, but the reviews Ive read have all been absolutely positive.
ClassicTP.jpg


With this press you can prime on the press instead of having to do it separately. I dont know enough to know if other brands do this, but Lee makes a selling point of it, so maybe other companies do it differently.

.
 
donut757 said:
I really dont know where to start. Id like to start reloading .38/.45 acp mainly and possibly 9mm.

I really have no clue as to what i should start looking nto getting to have a decent set up. I wont reload 1000's of rounds a year per caliber but would ike to be able to do a few hundred here and there.

I have seen a lot of reloading kit but dont know what im really look at or for. I have no experiences reloading and want to get some ideas of what i will need and a ballpark figure on the costs of reloading equipment, bullets, powders and so fourth.

Thanks for any help guys.
Dies.
I bought Lee 38 dies. They can be used for 357 magnum as well.

Powder.
I use Unique. Its very easily measured, can be used with handguns and shotguns, is bulky enough to EASILY see if youve overcharged and costs about $20 for a pound which seems to last a pretty long time.

Bullets.
I cast my own, but if you dont want to go that route, there are sites around that sell cast bullets for a pretty good price (plus shipping).

Primers.
Can be had from gander mountain or your local gunshop much of the time. Get them by the thousand and theyre pretty cheap. I think they should be well under $50 for 1000 by now.
38 would be small pistol primers....I think a 45 would be large pistol primers.

Brass.
Lots of online stores sell once fired brass at a decent price.
Starline is good for new if you want it. Depending I think its probably ~$20 for 100 new cases..but you get a LOT of reloading out of them *IF* you dont abuse them by maxing the loads out.
 
donut757 said:
I really dont know where to start. Id like to start reloading .38/.45 acp mainly and possibly 9mm.

Hi,

You've checked the sticky at the top of the index for this forum, right? There's a lot of "general" stuff available there.

From there, read as much as possible. It's hard to have too large a library when it comes to reloading. Read critically: some books tell you the "how to" of the hobby, others concentrate on recipes. Look for similarities in advice: this is one of those endeavors where there are LOTS of ways to do most operations, but the ones most writers agree on are a good starting point.

Find a mentor if possible, as suggested. It's that "One picture is worth 1000 words" thing at work: you can read and read, but you've actually got to pull the handle on a press to get it to "stick" and start making the most sense!

If you don't think you know anyone who could mentor you, ask around your range. There's usually someone who can take you under their wing for at least a couple of basic lessons...

Good luck, but remember to stay safe before anything else!

Rick C
 
Thanks for the replies... I will start keeping any eye out for some good reading material.. Any suggestions to get me started will be much appreciated becuase i have no clue what to look for.

As far as brass goes... I will not be pushing the limits by anymeans. I am thinking it could something else to occupy the time. But how many times can brass be reloaded for casual shooting???


It will be a while before i do start doing anything so ive got time. I gotta figure out where ill put everything. Being 25 i got a lot of shooting left ahead so i will take my time and hopefully get it right.

Ill be back for more help... Thanks guys
 
donut757 said:
Thanks for the replies... I will start keeping any eye out for some good reading material.. Any suggestions to get me started will be much appreciated becuase i have no clue what to look for.

As far as brass goes... I will not be pushing the limits by anymeans. I am thinking it could something else to occupy the time. But how many times can brass be reloaded for casual shooting???


It will be a while before i do start doing anything so ive got time. I gotta figure out where ill put everything. Being 25 i got a lot of shooting left ahead so i will take my time and hopefully get it right.

Ill be back for more help... Thanks guys
Im on my tenth reload for much of my brass. But it is at the very low end of the 38 special range for target loads, so its not much stress on the brass.

Ive read about guys who said the are using brass theyve had since the 70s...not sure how many times that equates to, but more than just a few, no doubt.

I think, from my understanding, you can keep reloading brass until it shows signs of damage, cracked, split, etc....in which case it seems like if youre easy on it it may well last 20-40 reloads or more.
Just a hunch since I havent reloaded any brass that many times yet.

But all you have to do is just get another batch of once fired or new and migrate it into your loading brass as the old wears out.

Either way it goes reloading is fun. Frankly I dont reload to shoot, I find myself shooting to have an excuse to reload :D
 
RugerSP101 said:
donut757 said:
I really dont know where to start. Id like to start reloading .38/.45 acp mainly and possibly 9mm.

I really have no clue as to what i should start looking nto getting to have a decent set up. I wont reload 1000's of rounds a year per caliber but would ike to be able to do a few hundred here and there.

I have seen a lot of reloading kit but dont know what im really look at or for. I have no experiences reloading and want to get some ideas of what i will need and a ballpark figure on the costs of reloading equipment, bullets, powders and so fourth.

Thanks for any help guys.

For a press Id suggest the Lee Classic Turret Press.
https://factorysales.com/html/xcart/catalog/classic.html
Bout half way down the page.
On sale for $85 right now.
I just got mine a few days ago and its really...REALLY easy to set up and use. Almost idiot proof (thank God).

You can get extra turrets for under $15 each for if you want to set up different dies for various rounds.
The turret literally just slips right out the top of the frame, and a different one could go right back in....maybe 5 seconds to switch them out !

This is my first real press, but the reviews Ive read have all been absolutely positive.
ClassicTP.jpg


With this press you can prime on the press instead of having to do it separately. I dont know enough to know if other brands do this, but Lee makes a selling point of it, so maybe other companies do it differently.

.


I highly praise this Lee Classic Turent press. This is a great starter press and is well worth the money. I have one and love it.
 
My first book was the Lee handloading book. It IS an advertisement for the Lee products but does a very good job of explaining the whole reloading process. Then I got Lyman's pistol and handgun reloading book. Lots of the same information using different wording. Both have pretty complete load data for all that you're planning on. I read them and studied them like a textbook, then gradually purchased equipment and expendables, researching each one along the way. Keep asking questions and researching - it's pretty easy to get started with the basics, then you can get into it as deep as you want.
 
Not much to add lotta of good advice. My 2cents when your are ready to buy equipment, I like the RCBS Rock Chucker press, very good single stage press. Single stag is they way to learn. ps
 
Here are 10 advices I composed for the new reloader. Keep in mind that my perspective is that of a handgun reloader (meaning straight-walled cartridge cases, not bottlenecked, which are used mostly in rifles).

I have thought of a few things I think are useful for handloaders to know or to consider which seem to be almost universal. So much is a matter of personal taste and circumstance, though. So, all advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".

Bonus advice: Advice zero, if you will, "Why load?"

At the same time as I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly. However, most shooters will not realize any savings at all. Instead of shooting for 1/4 the ammo cost, you will shoot four times as much for the same cost. However, handloading can be more than a means to an end (money savings or increased accuracy), it can be a satisfying pastime in itself.

The guy who sold me my gear showed me how to load my first six rounds. He showed me first, explaining each step and then watched me load six cases he gave me and kept me doing it correctly. I learned a lot in those first six rounds and for decades was self-taught. Recently, especially with the advent of the internet, I have learned a lot more. Keep your eyes and ears open.

Now, here are my Ten Advices.

Advice #1 Use Reliable Reference Sources Wisely - Books, Videos, Web Sites, etc.

Study up in loading manuals until you understand the process well, before spending a lot of money on equipment.

I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Short on loading data but full of knowledge and understanding of the process. Check out offerings in your local library. Dated, perhaps but the basics are pretty unchanging.

Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well. As far as load data in older manuals, the powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers may have better information and their web sites are probably more up to date. But pay attention to what the ammunition was test-fired from. (regular firearm vs a sealed-breech pressure test barrel, for example)

The reason you want more than one or two manuals is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. You also get better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others.

The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy.

There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started.

Richard Lee's book "Modern Reloading" has a lot of food for thought, and does discuss the reasoning behind his opinions (unlike many manuals, and postings). Whether right or wrong, the issues merit thought, which that book initiates. It is not a simple book, though and you will find it provocative reading for many years.

Only after you know the steps can you look at the contents of of a dealer's shelves, a mail-order catalog or a reloading kit and know what equipment you want to buy. If you are considering a loading kit, you will be in a better position to know what parts you don't need and what parts the kits lack.

Advice #2 All equipment is good. But is it good FOR YOU?

Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Better equipment costs more generally. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive but not so abrasion resistant as cast iron. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Lee makes good equipment, and is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker, though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes. Just think about what you buy. Ask around. Testimonials are nice. But if you think Ford/Chevrolet owners have brand loyalty, you have not met handloaders. Testimonials with reasoning behind them are better.

Be aware that many handloaders don't use brand names, prefering the manufacturer's chosen color, instead. RCBS equipment is almost all green; Dillon, blue; Lee, red. Almost no manufacturers cross color line, so many handloaders simply identify themselves as "Blue" or whatever. But this is not 100%. I have a Lee Powder Scale that is green.

On Kits:

Pre-assembled Kit: Almost every manufacturer (and retailer) makes a kit that contains (nearly) everything you need to do reloading . A kit is decent way to get started quickly with less puzzling over unknowable questions. Eventually most people wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops (negating the price savings of the initial purchase), but you will have gotten started, at least.

Make your own kit:
On the other hand, you can assemble your own kit. But you have to put more thought into it before you start plunking down money (and plunking out rounds).

Third alternative. Populate your loading bench one piece of gear at a time starting with a minimal setup. I go into this "Budget beginning bench for the novice handloader you will never outgrow" in another post. Basically, the two rules are: Buy only what you absolutely need, and nothing more. Whatever you buy, buy what you will need ten years from now, so you will not ever have to retire any piece of gear. To follow these rules, you must know about reloading before you actually DO any and you must know what your future needs are.

Advice #3 While Learning, don't get fancy. Progressive or Single Stage? Experimental loads?

While you are learning, load mid-range at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the loading steps right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, seating depth, primer seating force, all that). Use a "fluffy" powder (takes up a lot of space for the charge -Trail Boss is one) that is, one that will overflow your cartridge case if you mistakenly put two powder charges in it, and is easy to verify that you have not missed charging a case with powder.

Learn on a press that performs one step at a time. A single stage press or a turret press can do this organically. A progressive press can be made to do this, but since that is not the way it operates naturally, many people recommend to not learn on a progressive press, especially operating in the progressive mode with multiple operations on multiple cartridges at different stages in the loading process (3 4 or 5 shells simultaneously). When too many things happen at the same time, they are hard to keep track of. Mistakes DO happen and you want to watch for them ONE AT A TIME until handloading becomes second nature to you. You can learn on a progressive, but it is easier to make mistakes during the learning process.

Note: A turret press is essentially a single stage press with a moveable head which can mount several dies at the same time. What makes it like a single stage rather than a progressive is that you are still using only one die at a time, not three or four dies simultaneously at each stroke.

Also, a good, strong, single stage press is in the stable of every reloader I know, no matter how many progressives they have. They always keep at least one single-stage.

Advice #4 Find a mentor.

There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technigue BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")

Like I said before, I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. I could have learned more, faster with a longer mentoring period, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. I educated myself after that. But now, on the internet, I have learned a WHOLE LOT MORE. But in-person is still the best.

After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.

Advice #5 Design your loading space for safety, efficiency, cleanliness

When I started reloading, I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted the press on a 2" x 6" plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table My loading gear all fit in a footlocker and spread out on a coffeetable, end table and/or the lid of the footlocker. Good leverage meant the table did not lift or rock. I still use the same plank, but now it is mounted in a Black & Decker folding workbench. A loading bench "bolted to the center of the earth" (as some describe their setups) would be more stable, but I do not feel deprived without it.

You will probably spill powder or drop a primer eventually, so consider what you have for a floor covering when you pick your reloading room/workspace. I would not try to vacuum up spilt gunpowder unless using a Rainbow vacuum which uses water as the filter medium.

A dropcloth is handy for making cleanup quick and easy and also prevents dropped primers from rolling away. Cloth is quieter than plastic and drapes better, too.

Advice #6 Keep Current on loading technology

Always use a CURRENT loading manual. Powder chemistry has changed over the years. They make some powders differently than they used to and even some powder names may have changed. However, if you are using 10 year old powder, you may want to check a 10 year old manual for the recipe. Then double check with a modern manual and then triple check with the powder maker.

Read previous threads on reloading, here are a couple I read.

Here are some posts and threads I think you will enjoy. So get a large mug of coffee, tea, hot chocolate, whatever you keep on hand when you read and think and read through these.

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
TheFiringLine.com, "Handloading, Reloading, and Bullet Casting"
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230171
http://www.thehighroad.org//showthread.php?t=238214
THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS - Powered by Social Strata
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/frm/f/2511043
RugerForum.com :: View topic - Interested in reloading
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
RugerForum.com :: View Forum - Factory Ammunition and Reloading
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=11
This was informed by my recent (July 2010) repopulation of my loading bench. It is what I would have done 35 years ago if I had known then what I know now.
http://rugerforum.net/reloading/29385-budget-beginning-bench-you-will-never-outgrow-novice-handloader.html
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430391
(posts #11 and #13 are mine)
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=107332
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=439810

Advice #7 You never regret buying the best (but once)

When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy too cheaply it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying.

Advice #8 Tungsten Carbide dies (or Titanium Nitride)

T-C dies instead of regular tool steel (which require lubrication for sizing your brass) for your straight-walled cartridge cases. T-C dies do not require lubrication, which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.

Advice #9 Safety Always Safety All Ways.

Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers. Gloves are good, too, especially if using the Lee "Hammer" Tools. Children (unless they are good helpers, not just playing around) are at risk and are a risk. Pets, too unless they have been vetted (no, not that kind of vetting). Any distractions that might induce you to forget charging a case (no charge or a double charge, equally disturbing). Imagine everything that CAN go wrong. Then imagine everything that you CAN'T imagine. I could go on, but it's your eyes, your fingers, your house, your children. Enough said?

Advice #10 Remember, verify for yourself everything you learn from casual sources. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly. I heard about a powder manufacturer's web site that dropped a decimal point once. It was fixed REAL FAST, but mistakes happen. I work in accounting and frequently hit "7" instead of "4" because they are next to each other on the keypad.

Good luck.

Lost Sheep
 
I'll add my vote to those of RugerSP101 and donut757 for the Lee turret press. I bought a kit from Midway a couple years ago and it's worked out great. I got the original turret press and it works fine but from everything I read the Classic, which is actually the newer model, is better. I load a couple thousand rounds of .38 and .357 a year for IDPA & general fun shooting. I'll also add my vote to those that say, buy more books. It is both distressing and enlightening to see how much they disagree!
 
donut757 said:
Thanks for the replies... I will start keeping any eye out for some good reading material.. Any suggestions to get me started will be much appreciated becuase i have no clue what to look for.

Make sure you get a copy of the Lyman reloading manual. The current edition is #49.

Lots of good reference articles in the front and you get a nice variety of load data from many bullet and powder manufacturers. You also get data for cast lead bullets, which you wont get much of from the bullet manufacturer manuals. I recommend also the Hornady manual (#8 is current, I think).

Hogdon's manual is like a magazine and has many loads and does include some commerciually available cast loads and is only $7, since it's published in magazine format.
 
patcannon said:
I got the original turret press and it works fine but from everything I read the Classic, which is actually the newer model, is better.

The Classic is definitely superior to the Deluxe.

It will take a longer cartridge (or leaves you more room for your fingers)

It drops spent primers down the center of the ram into a tube, where the Deluxe drops then into a slot in the side of ram from where they are SUPPOSED to drop into the hollow base of the press. From the base of the press, you have empty the primers periodically.

The Classic is cast iron. The Deluxe is aluminum. Mose people prefer cast iron, though aluminum has some adherents with legitimate support for their preference.

Good Luck

Lost Sheep (remotely posting from Yuma for a short time)
 
Another advocate of the Lyman manual 45th up will do to get started , the info is basically the same in all of em except the addition of a few powders .

I agree with alot that has been said here , & the only addition I can make is when ya get ready to start assembling equipment you may want to put a WTB in the classifieds , ya never know what someone has under there bench from upgrading ,& a good solid single stage press is always good to have at hand !!!!!!!

Basic needs are :

MANUAL

Press
Dies
Beam Scales
6"calipers
Trimming tools

All others are tools to make reloading faster or more convenient.

Hand operated to power operated trimmers , scales ,etc. It all comes down to needs & budget !!
 
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