Vaquero skips time

ncrobb

Single-Sixer
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Aug 17, 2014
Messages
141
City & State/Province
Iredell County, NC
I have an original (large frame) Bisley Vaquero that is stainless and .45 Colt. Bought it years ago from a guy who used it for CAS. I shot the begeevers out of for a couple years, mostly 8.0 grains of Unique under a 250 grain LSWC but occasionally some stout loads. Any way, it started skipping time (failing to lock up) so I put it away in the safe. I got it out today and watching the action I noted it that when it didn't lock up it was on the same notch every time. A little closer look at the cylinder showed the notches have burrs built up on the trailing edge where the bolt engages the notches. All six notches have this burr and the one that fails to lock up seems a little worse. I guess my question is is she just worn out or do the burrs indicate a timing issue? The top of the bolt doesn't look too bad. I have never noticed similar burrs on other revolvers. I will add that the previous owner did or had a action job done on the Bisley that is extremely light. Any thoughts or insights?

Robb
 
not sure as to the location of the "burrs" as you describe, are they BEFORE the lead in or the back edge of the notch? each may tell a different story,,,again as you are saying "started skipping time (failing to lock up)..." failing to lock up may mean, cylinder STOPS before it locks up, some call this doesn't come up (DCU) or it "throws by" goes PAST the lock up.....one may be from slamming, HARD against the slot and "peening" ( burr) the back edge of the slot, OR the bolt ( cylinder stop) comes up too hard and may chip or nick the cylinder before it falls into the "lead"....do you have any pictures????? short worn pawl; weak ,worn spring for the stop ( bolt) whatever, could be a few different things................
another thing is you often see this happen more with the stainless guns, ,than blued (chrome moly) stainless is fairly soft....I've seen MORE burrs on stainless guns....and aslo you say the gun was used for CAS ?? again, the "slamming" ( quick draw) at times almost borders on 'abuse', versus "wear"............
 
Thanks Dan. I don't have any pics but the cylinder throws by and goes past lock up and the burrs appear to be from peening on the back edge of notch. I was thinking to replace the cylinder latch with a Power Custom oversized one and all new springs as well as gently removing the burrs.
 
I believe your cylinder notches have been battered by rapid fire. The over-rotating of the cylinder has taken a toll on the stopping parts. I saw an article one time on how to repair them but I can't seem to find it. I believe it said to peen the burr down and then carefully file or stone a flat on the notch. You probably also need an oversize cylinder latch (bolt stop) and a shim on the frame window. All this should be done by a qualified person and checked for safety before firing.

Have you considered sending the gun back to Ruger and having it brought back to factory specs? :shock:
 
" I will add that the previous owner did or had a action job done on the Bisley that is extremely light. Any thoughts or insights?"

When I think about how most CAS guns get treated, and then look at the above quote from your OP, my thought is that your gun was run hard and put up wet many times before it came into your possession. Adding that to the fact that it has obviously been subjected to some sort of action job by who knows who......and I'm inclinded to agree with Jimbo on the "send it in to Ruger for an overhaul" thing.

Just saying that by the time your cylinder notches get that trashed, you can bet that there's other stuff in there that is in bad shape too.

DGW
 
I think sending it back to Ruger is sound advice. I was talking with a buddy this week and he brought it up too.

Robb
 
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ncrobb said:
the cylinder showed the notches have burrs built up on the trailing edge where the bolt engages the notches. All six notches have this burr and the one that fails to lock up seems a little worse. I guess my question is is she just worn out or do the burrs indicate a timing issue?
No, the burrs are evidence that the former owner was fanning the gun or cocking it violently enough to damage the locking grooves in the cylinder.
the previous owner did or had a action job done on the Bisley that is extremely light.
another sign of bad judgement, but it likely has nothing to do with failure to carry up. Of course large burrs can interfere with the bolt dropping into the locking grooves, or the bolt simply may need to be replaced/readjusted. If possible, please post some photos. Just curious, but where does the bolt drop onto the cylinder (i.e. where does the turn line begin?)

Unfortunately you can't undo the bad trigger job without replacing the hammer and trigger. As far as the burrs on the cylinder, there is no advantage to peening the metal back down into the locking grooves, metal just doesn't work that way. The burrs will have to be stoned off smooth, and the locking grooves may have to be re-shaped. It is likely that the bolt window in the frame has been enlarged, so an "oversize" or gunsmith fit bolt (as mentioned) is a great idea.

CU
 
I finally got a chance to take some pics of the notches. This one shows it the best and is typical of all. The drag line from the bolt runs notch to notch, but it doesn't snag the edge of the notch when it pops up. Like I mentioned earlier it only throws past on one notch right now. Ruger said send it back and they would look it at; I bet they would put in a new cylinder, bolt, trigger and hammer. I may just stone the burrs and fit an oversize bolt.

P1110231_zpsd8fce1ca.jpg
 
That is a bad burr and I don't like that drag line all the way around. It should start about half-way between the notches. :?
 
I would call Ruger's customer service and just tell them there is burrs on the cylinder notches and it fails to lock up half the time and then let them run with the conversation, sometimes they will talk themselves into emailing you a prepaid shipping label for it! Let them go through it and they will replace every part that is damaged or modified, including the cylinder. I have seen them bend over backwards to make customers happy before, and in my own experience with them, they are THE BEST customer service in the industry.
 
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