Trigger concern on new sp101

[9iron]

Just took possession of a new sp101 3" 357 from my lgs. When I looked the gun over before buying I cycled the trigger a few times and found it to be perfectly acceptable. In my limited experience Ruger revolver triggers are not "Sweet" like some other manufacturers but they are just fine. I found this one to be just that, smooth enough, no binding spots, no real stacking except just a touch right there just before the break, and a perfectly acceptable smooth reset. I dry fired the gun at least a dozen times and it felt great. When I got the revolver home I put some snap caps in the cylinder and began cycling it through double action for a while just to get a good feel for the gun. Two problems popped up after about 50 cycles. First, and the lesser problem, towards the end of the reset cycle just before the trigger clicks back into full reset, it feels like the trigger is rubbing inside on the left side, like some sort of contact/rubbing is occurring.

The second issue really concerns me. When I pull the hammer back and then attempt to decock the gun without making it fire, the trigger/hammer binds up and before the hammer gets down to the closed position a loud click happens, like the gun fires anyway. I'm right handed, It goes like this: (with snap caps inserted) Hammer pulled back and gun ready for single action fire. Left hand holding gun forward of cylinder to stabilize gun (per rugers instruction in manual), right thumb pulls rearward a bit on hammer while trigger finger pulls back releasing trigger and immediately lets go of trigger once trigger has clicked and freed hammer. At this point I should be able to slowly lower the hammer and the gun returns to safe position, but about 3 out of 5 times it does not. Instead the thing binds up and the hammer does not lower, nor does the trigger return forward. With some jiggling of both (more pulling back on trigger while wiggling hammer back and forth) the hammer will finally release, but then while lowering the hammer slowly the return is not smooth and soft to an easy safe reset. Instead there is a loud click like the firing pin is being set off, well before the hammer returns to closed position. When I perform the decock during the 2 out of 5 times it works correctly the entire procedure results in a soft smooth cycle back to safe with no clicks. The 3 times it doesn't work results in the gun acting like it doesn't know whether to decock or fire, and it fires (sounds like the firing pin being set off), though out of sinc (before hammer drops completely).

Hope that makes sense, and would appreciate any help.

 

[hittman]

How does it shoot?
First things first.
Clean it well.
Shoot it.
Report back.

 

[9iron]

How does it shoot?
First things first.
Clean it well.
Shoot it.
Report back.

It has not been shot yet. Now that the trigger seems to be malfunctioning, going out and shooting it doesn't seem like the best idea. The gun has been cleaned, wiped down and dry fired with snap caps only.

 

[pisgah]

Does it happen without the snap caps in place? I'd at least bet a shiny half-dollar that it doesn't, although I could be wrong. Using snap caps in guns that don't require them, or using them as action-proving rounds (which they are not) is, to me, asking for problems. Snap caps are NOT real rounds, and often don't function like real ones when cycling an action.

 

[9iron]

Does it happen without the snap caps in place? .

I didn't think to check that, will do that as soon as I can. I asked about the safety of dry fire practice indoors (winter) when I bought the gun, was told as long as I put snap caps in the gun there was no danger of wear from dry firing.

 

[pisgah]

Does it happen without the snap caps in place? .

I didn't think to check that, will do that as soon as I can. I asked about the safety of dry fire practice indoors (winter) when I bought the gun, was told as long as I put snap caps in the gun there was no danger of wear from dry firing.

I think you were likely told that so they could sell you some snap caps. Most centerfire guns do not require snap caps and dryfiring causes no damage beyond normal wear from use with live ammo. There are exceptions -- for instance, double shotguns and rifles should generally not be dryfired without snap caps unless the manufacturer okays it, and NO rimfire gun should be dryfired unless the manufacturer specifically states it's OK -- but these are not because dryfiring is inherently bad but because some design feature of the action makes firing pin damage likely.

Plenty of folks will tell you otherwise, but they are misinformed; you can dryfire your SP101 to your heart's content with no fear of damage. Were this not true, you can be sure the owner's manual would have made it abundantly clear -- and you have read the manual, right? :wink:

 

[9iron]

I removed the snap caps, still happens. One thing I found out fiddling with it some more: if I pull back on the hammer and fully depress the trigger but do not let off on the trigger (keep it fully pulled back all the way) the gun will decock smoothly as I slowly walk the hammer forward. If I release the trigger as soon as the hammer is released and try to slowly walk the hammer forward to decock it, the action jumps forward and I get that loud click or snap sound before the hammer is fully at rest. As I read rugers instructions, neither of these things should be happening.

 

[9iron]

I think you were likely told that so they could sell you some snap caps.... and you have read the manual, right? :wink:

Yes I read the manual. I dont see any mention of dry firing in the manual. I bought the snapcaps elsewhere, while the gun was in its waiting period, after reading recommendations on this forum in favor of the use of snapcaps for practice. They never tried to sell them to me when I bought the gun, they just confirmed that it would be a good idea to use then when I asked about them.

 

[Captain America]

Is this a new gun? If it is you need to remove the preservative that's all over it, if it's used someone might have done some trigger work to the gun and failed at reassembly of the trigger group. Regardless I would recommend a good cleaning and lubing of the gun. All of the problems you're describing can stem from the trigger group. It sounds like you have a sticky trigger plunger or cylinder latch spring/plunger. Spraying the gun with cleaner and a couple of drops of lube should straighten the gun out if you don't feel comfortable taking the gun apart, removing the trigger group will give you a better idea of what's happening but disassembly(actually reassembly) of the trigger group is a little tricky if you're a novice. There's plenty of good videos on youtube if you feel confident about taking the gun apart.

 

[Prescut]

There are many reports of SP101 trigger problems.

Ruger refused to look at mine even if I paid. They said the numbers I gave were within specs. DA over 14 lbs.

I understand they will now look at your trigger if you say it needs repair.

The SP101 can be very tricky to work on. Light strikes are typical after an amateur action job.

Call Ruger. Be nice. I'm guessing they'll take yours back with no problem. Once they accept it, be sure to ask for an action job, pay for it if need be.

 

[9iron]

Yes the gun is brand new, I cleaned it but did not remove the trigger assembly or work on the gun in any way. I think I'll video this and contact ruger.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I think de-cocking a revolver requires a bit of 'feel' with the opperation. Do what is comfortable for you to make the process smooth. It is not always 1-2-3.

 

[gramps]

How does it shoot?
First things first.
Clean it well.
Shoot it.
Report back.

Yep, I would just shoot it! Looking for stuff to booger at, makes living hard. IMO
gramps

 

[DGW1949]

It is quite possible to out-smart a gun's action while asking it to do something that it was never intended to do. Most often, the first tip off is that something either drags, gets bound up, clicks, pops, quits moving, or perhaps even bends or breaks while you're doing whatever it is that you shouldn't be doing.
Or it could be that it would be OK to do what you're trying to do, only you're trying to do it the wrong way...

In either event, me thinks that your gun is trying to tell you something...and I'm purty-sure that that "something" is to leave the trigger fully pressed until AFTER the hammer has been fully lowered. I mean, think about it...ain't that how it happens when the gun is actually being fired?...and ain't that the opposite of the way you said you've been doing it?

Hope this helps.

DGW

 

[9iron]

It is quite possible to out-smart a gun's action while asking it to do something that it was never intended to do. Most often, the first tip off is that something either drags, gets bound up, clicks, pops, quits moving, or perhaps even bends or breaks while you're doing whatever it is that you shouldn't be doing.
Or it could be that it would be OK to do what you're trying to do, only you're trying to do it the wrong way...

In either event, me thinks that your gun is trying to tell you something...and I'm purty-sure that that "something" is to leave the trigger fully pressed until AFTER the hammer has been fully lowered. I mean, think about it...ain't that how it happens when the gun is actually being fired?...and ain't that the opposite of the way you said you've been doing it?

Hope this helps.

DGW

The ruger manual clearly states that the trigger is to be released as soon as the trigger pull has released the hammer. And then we still have the isssue of the firing pin being set off while slowly lowering the hammer (as the manual instructs), and this happening before the hammer ever reaches the end of the stroke. No, this does not sound like a safety feature working as designed.

 

[s4s4u]

I think a call to Ruger is in order.