Transfer Bar upgrade

[one eye joe]

I purchased a used Blackhawk, and would like to have it upgraded to the Transfer Bar system for safety reasons. It will be exposed to extreme trail use. Does Ruger perform this upgrade free of charge ? Also, do they pay the shipping both ways ?

 

[Enigma]

I'm assuming you have an old model (3-screw) Blackhawk; the New Blackhawk comes with a transfer bar system. Yes, the conversion (most folks don't consider it an 'upgrade') is free of charge. Shipping? I dunno, but I rather doubt it. Many people will recommend that you remove the 'guts' of the revolver before shipping it off, although Ruger seems to be pretty good about returning the original parts.

Heck, some folks might be willing to swap you a new model B'hawk straight across for the old one... Just sayin'.

 

[Anonymous]

A buddy had his single six converted over to the transfer bar and after that his trigger pull went to cr@p! He dump the bar and had a gunsmith friend reinstall the old parts (they return to you. This is why I never had mine change on my old single six. no big deal, just leave one chamber under the hammer empty when carrying......that's they way they used to do it! 8)

 

[Ale-8(1)]

Ruger's website says they will provide you with a shipping container and instructions, and will pay return freight to you. Your only expense would be shipping to them.

Call their Service epartment for information at 603-865-2442 .

 

[Sal1950]

Below is the answer to your question directly from the Ruger website.
If your intent is "extreme trail use" then the conversion would be a good idea unless you want to carry it the way all old SA guns were recommended to be carried, as a five shooter with the hammer on an empty chamber.
Or as Enigma mentioned you might consider trading it for a NMB, lots of guys would really love to have your original 3 screw unaltered.
Sal

To receive a free factory safety Conversion,
write to us at Sturm, Ruger and Company,
Inc.; Lacey Place, Dept. KC; Southport CT
06890. We will provide you with a shipping
container and instructions. You only pay ini-
tial shipping to our factory. We will cover all
other charges including return shipping costs.
Please write to us without delay if you have
one of these guns, and tell your friends about
the availability of this kit. Remember that the
safest way to carry any older single-action
revolver, regardless of manufacturer, is with
the hammer down on an empty chamber.

 

[wheezengeezer]

I carry mine with the firing pin between the case rims.I know it scratches the cyl but it is a "daily carry on the farm" gun and gets a lot of wear anyway.But the trigger is the sweet OM pull.

 

[wwb]

Half cock, open the loading gate, load one, skip one, load four, full cock, pull the trigger and lower the hammer.... you now have the hammer down on an empty chamber.

As was stated above, if you really want the transfer bar, trade down to a new model. Lots of guys would love to have your 3-screw in an unaltered condition.

 

[Rclark]

for safety reasons

Just load 1, skip 1, and load 4 more.... As been done since the 1800s . Seems about as safe as you can get, to have an empty under the hammer! Even my 'new' models are loaded that way. My CC 5 shot Bulldog only has 4 at home when not target shooting. But that is just me. As said above Ruger will be 'happy' to change it out for you.

 

[EDK]

Half cock......

As was stated above, if you really want the transfer bar, trade down to a new model. Lots of guys would love to have your 3-screw in an unaltered condition.

While it isn't a collector's item if it has been used heavily, I'd advertise it a bit...you could probably get a stainless New Model and some money from the right person....sell it outright for in excess of $400 plus shipping. They aren't made any more...the transfer bar conversion produces a trigger considered to be WORSE than the New Models...Your shipping cost to RUGER is going to be in the neighborhood of $100.

If you do ship it to RUGER, take ALL the internal parts out of it so it can either be restored to original OR you can sell them for about $150 NOW and probably more several years down the road. Old Model Super Black Hawk hammers routinely go for over $100...standard hammers have gone for $50+.

 

[Sal1950]

I didn't do a copy of the entire pdf on the update but Ruger does promise to return the original parts.

"This mechanism can be factory-installed
without any further alteration. The frame and
other major parts will not be affected by this
Conversion. The value of the gun will not be
impaired, and we will return your original
parts for collector's purposes."

Sal

 

[DGW1949]

I purchased a used Blackhawk, and would like to have it upgraded to the Transfer Bar system for safety reasons. It will be exposed to extreme trail use. Does Ruger perform this upgrade free of charge ? Also, do they pay the shipping both ways ?

I don't know what you mean by "extreme trail use" but if you are planning to subject a "converted" OM to any sort of long term, heavy duty use, here's some things that you might want to be aware of;

The sear contact surfaces is decidedly more narrow than on the original.
The conversion action is not the same as either the OM or the NM, nor as strong as either. In fact, if I had to coin a term for the "conversion" action, I'd call it "Coltish" in function (but weaker than a Colt, and not timed as well).
The bolt-cam which is cast onto the conversion hammer is the tiniest cam I've ever seen on a SA revolver that actualy functioned. If you expect it to live long, ya best keep it clean and lubed with some sort of light grease.
The OM conversion parts require a longer trigger-travel to operate and stronger springs to operate properly. The increased spring pressure may or may not cause extra wear by themselves but it's a certainty that if subjected to hard use, the combonation of a narrower sear and stronger springs aint a good thing.
Carry an extra transfer bar. They are known to break.
I'd also carry an extra, pre-fitted latch. And I'm saying "pre-fitted" because Ruger don't fit squat when they do the safety conversion, they just grab a generic set of parts for the frame-size they're converting and throw them in.
More often than not, you'll find that the conversion hammer will need pulled further back than before in order for the trigger-sear to engage the cocking notch.
Experiencing an early bolt release is common, and if yours does that, it will cause the cylinder to get scared-up.
Trigger pull is going to be greater.
The action will feel "gritty"....because it is....which gets back to the lack of proper fitting.

Some of the above can be fixed by an experienced gunsmith who is familiar with both Ruger AND Colt SA's....but some of it can't due to the compromised design of the conversion action.

Hope this helps.

DGW

 

[BRL]

Lots of good points to ponder DGW1949.
My OM stays un-converted, or I would go with a NM Blackhawk.

 

[Major T]

One eyed joe, The info you are getting is all good and well intended, with one exception. The shipping cost should be nowhere near $100. From what I see shippers charging on Gunbroker, my guess is 25-30 max. Which ever way you decide to go, best wishes, Jack

 

[foxtrapper]

Major T the shipping is close to $100.00. You have to send a handgun next day air. I send my Ruger SA's to custom guys a couple times a year so believe me ,I have looked for the cheapest way !That is if you declare it a handgun at UPS , Fedex or DHL. You could use a drop box shipper, labeling "machine parts" or such , just would not know the aftermath would be if the gun became damaged or lost.

 

[Chief 101]

Lots of good points to ponder DGW1949.
My OM stays un-converted, or I would go with a NM Blackhawk.

A good decision, a converted OM is inferior to a NM Blackhawk.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

If you happen to have a friendly FFL guy, I believe he can send the gun via USPS for ya. Depending on his fees, this might be cheaper than the alternatives.

The return would likely have to come thru him, as well, but I'm not certain about that.

 

[one eye joe]

Thanks for the input guys. I LIKE the load one, skip one, load four scenario. Just out of curiosity, what would the estimated value of a 3 Screw with the serial # 50-00038x be ? I may decide to sell it to a collector and purchase a new one for field use. It is in AT LEAST 95% condition, and it would be a shame to put more wear on it. I am a SHOOTER, not the curator of my private museum. Any idea when this one was born ? ?

 

[DGW1949]

The gang will need the details of your particular gun before the value question can be answered. That said though, a 95% gun is what most of us consider to be more in the shooter-catagory than the collector-catagory.
Pictures help a lot.

DGW

 

[EDK]

One eyed joe, The info you are getting is all good and well intended, with one exception. The shipping cost should be nowhere near $100. From what I see shippers charging on Gunbroker, my guess is 25-30 max. Which ever way you decide to go, best wishes, Jack

IF YOU HAVE A FFL, you can ship via US Post Office. NON FFL have to ship via UPS, FED-EX, DHL..."common carrier"...which means YOU ship NEXT DAY AIR at about $100. Most sellers on the auctions are FFL holders or ship through one.

Slightly Off Topic. Requiring NEXT DAY AIR for handguns "put the hurt" on gunsmiths who do a lot of pistol work. Trigger jobs for $100 and $10 +/- shipping via UPS each way were their "bread and butter jobs" since a lot of us would do that routinely on a newly acquired pistol. $100 shipping on a $100 work order isn't economical. Three years ago, the shipping was $100 for the non-FFL and $25 return shipping from the gunsmith. "Someone I hear of" drove 600+miles each way plus a $50 motel room plus meals for two days to drop guns off...then repeated three week later when they were ready. AND still saved almost $900 on shipping.

SP4 27th Surgical Hospital RVN FEB 1969 to ETS JAN 1970

 

[EDK]

..... what would the estimated value of a 3 Screw with the serial # 50-00038x be ? I may decide to sell it to a collector and purchase a new one for field use. It is in AT LEAST 95% condition, and it would be a shame to put more wear on it. I am a SHOOTER, not the curator of my private museum. Any idea when this one was born ? ?

Go over to gunbroker, gunsamerica or auctionarms and look at prices. I get most of my internet purchases off gunbroker...larger selection there. The lowest prices I've paid were off auctionarms...three guns from the same buyer in a year plus a couple others. The sellers on gunsamerica can be a PITA and the site doesn't remove sold items very quickly....I don't buy much over there...don't check it near as often as gb or aa.

If it has a 6.5 inch barrel and 95% condition, I'd go $400 pretty quick but then I'd also have $30 shipping and $25 transfer fee. A face-to-face sale from you could be a similar total cost...I can buy from an individual here without FFL or permits. Buying from a local gun shop means 8% sales tax here in Missouri.