LCR Transfer Bar Failures

[LDM]

Recently had to get my LCR repaired as it had locked up. Reason was the transfer bar broke.

This is the second time this has happened. It's lightly used, roughly 20 rounds/month to keep trigger pull in practice.

Has anyone else had a transfer bar failure? Is there a design or metallurgy problem with this part?
Makes me question the reliability of this piece if the time comes when I need it for serious social work.

 

[rugerguy]

once again one of those things we have seen for many times over the years when folks "dry fire" their guns, "stuff happens"...much like the Bible verse for those to "Pound their swords into plow shares" ( or was it vice versa?) :roll:
you hit two metal pieces together over and over, I was always taught metal "work hardens, becomes brittle,,,,breaks...."

when dry firing I say to use a snap cap or some such ( we used to put a pencil eraser in the primer pocket hole and this helps "absorb" any impact/shock, BUT today these "engineers" are so much brighter and have MORE time to redo, go over and remake, the parts, under warranty, than to take the time and sufficiently product test ( endurance test we used to call them) see what happens over time,, and repeated use. you say its happened to YOU two times now...hmmm, in 73 years I have yet to break ONE............. 8) :roll: :wink and I have handled and shot HUNDREDS of thousands of firearms in that time, and we used to do "warranty repair" work for High Standard AND Dan Wesson Arms....... :wink:

 

[LDM]

I always use A-Zoom snap caps for dry fire practice. Something else is going on here. I take it to a local gunsmith as it costs less than FedExing it to Ruger.

 

[rugerguy]

I'd say you are doing it properly, so back to the under-engineered??? or as you even noted above the "metallurgy"....have you sent the "broken piece" to Ruger?? I know over the years they would always simply "replace" ( exchange) BUT that doesn;t tell us whats going on that may be "wrong", and the hard part of putting it all back togther...being its that 'new' of a model, they may want to "see" it , and replace it if need be, yes maybe the entire gun.........comes under "FUBAR" 8) :roll: :wink:

Good luck to you....... :wink:

 

[Ale-8(1)]

Ruger website owner's manual parts list says ALL parts except the grips must be "factory fitted". Kinda doubt they'll send you a replacement transfer bar. Then again, it can't hurt to call and ask.

I'd bet they'll say "send us the gun"! :wink:

 

[Rclark]

I called on mine that broke in a BH, and they just sent me a transfer bar free of charge. No fitting required. Don't recall if I had to 'adjust' for the transfer bar pinch problem. I am sure I checked though. Mine broke after years of use. I don't believe in 'dry firing' my revolvers.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

Yep, on the Blackhawks' parts list the transfer bar is not indicated as a "factory fit" component.

 

[recumbent]

I have 3 LCRs and never a problem with any of them and I shoot them a lot but do not dry fire them.

 

[RoninPA]

LDM,
I would get on the phone with Ruger, explain what is happening, and see if they want you to return the LCR to them for a thorough investigation. Talk nice and express you concerns and they probably will send you a prepaid return label. I agree with what was said previously, it may not be the transfer bar, it may be something internal that is causing stresses on the bar that is causing premature failure. I would think Ruger would want to figure out why.

 

[Bear Paw Jack]

I agree with Ron. Give them a call. I haven't even heard of that problem with an LCR. I've probably got close to 10 of them. No problemo.

 

[hittman]

Yeah, I'd hate to pay a local gunsmith to fix a broken part and not get to what may be causing that part to break.

 

[bookemdano]

I have 4 LCR's. One 9mm, two .38 and a .22mag. Use Snap Caps on the .38's and 9mm
for dry fire. Don't dry fire the .22 mag. The others have at least a 1000 dry fires plus
250 to 300 rounds fired. No problems with any of them.
Dano

 

[P89DC]

once again one of those things we have seen for many times over the years when folks "dry fire" their guns, "stuff happens"...much like the Bible verse for those to "Pound their swords into plow shares" ( or was it vice versa?) :roll:
you hit two metal pieces together over and over, I was always taught metal "work hardens, becomes brittle,,,,breaks...."

when dry firing I say to use a snap cap or some such ( we used to put a pencil eraser in the primer pocket hole and this helps "absorb" any impact/shock, BUT today these "engineers" are so much brighter and have MORE time to redo, go over and remake, the parts, under warranty, than to take the time and sufficiently product test ( endurance test we used to call them) see what happens over time,, and repeated use. you say its happened to YOU two times now...hmmm, in 73 years I have yet to break ONE............. 8) :roll: :wink and I have handled and shot HUNDREDS of thousands of firearms in that time, and we used to do "warranty repair" work for High Standard AND Dan Wesson Arms....... :wink:

I always use A-Zoom snap caps for dry fire practice. Something else is going on here. I take it to a local gunsmith as it costs less than FedExing it to Ruger.

I'd say you are doing it properly, so back to the under-engineered??? or as you even noted above the "metallurgy"....have you sent the "broken piece" to Ruger?? I know over the years they would always simply "replace" ( exchange) BUT that doesn;t tell us whats going on that may be "wrong", and the hard part of putting it all back togther...being its that 'new' of a model, they may want to "see" it , and replace it if need be, yes maybe the entire gun.........comes under "FUBAR" 8) :roll: :wink:

Good luck to you....... :wink:

Too funny, just keep guessing, RG! :wink:

 

[Onty]

Once somebody posted that main cause of this problem is improperly fitted hammer. From what I understood, this happens when there is no enough relief/space between hammer (firing pin zone) and frame, so transfer bar gets pinched on frame (most likely some sort of bending) while hammer hitting primer.

To test if hammer is properly fitted:

1. Pull the hammer all the way back so trigger will engage it.
2. Pull the trigger (I would hold hammer and let it go forward slowly). Hold trigger pulled, do not release. Hammer should be down.
3. Watch hammer and release trigger slowly. If hammer moves even slightly, it's not properly fitted, and transfer bar gets pinched any time hammer goes forward.

 

[Mus408]

Once somebody posted that main cause of this problem is improperly fitted hammer. From what I understood, this happens when there is no enough relief/space between hammer (firing pin zone) and frame, so transfer bar gets pinched on frame (most likely some sort of bending) while hammer hitting primer.

To test is hammer properly fitted:

1. Pull the hammer all the way back so trigger will engage it
2. Pull the trigger (I would hold hammer and let it go forward slowly). Hold trigger pulled, do not release. Hammer should be down
3. Watch hammer and release trigger slowly. If hammer moves even slightly, it's not properly fitted, and transfer bar gets pinched any time hammer goes forward.

So how do you check that with the LCR with hidden hammer? I have the .357 LCR and no problems yet but it doesn't have a whole lot of trigger time.

 

[Onty]

So how do you check that with the LCR with hidden hammer? I have the .357 LCR and no problems yet but it doesn't have a whole lot of trigger time.

Never had it in my hand. Can something (cover or plate) be removed so you can see hammer and revolver still could be cycled?

Stupid question now, but did you consider SP101 DAO https://ruger.com/products/sp101/specSheets/5720.html ?

 

[Pistolero]

I have an LCR357 that has close to 1,000 medium powered .357 magnum cast 158 grain SWCs fired through it. I dry fire it often with snaps caps. I haven’t had any problems with it. It has been my primary CCW since I bought it about four years ago.
I concur with calling Ruger and explaining your problem to them. I’ll bet they make it good for you.