To ream....

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s4s4u

Hunter
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Dec 16, 2006
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....or not to ream? Or, is that why this thing shoots like a scattergun?

I have come upon an older Bisley 45 Colt with 7-1/2" barrel. Shoots tarrable. The sinker came through at .4505", and a not even a .451" bullet has a chance to pass throught any of the throats. I don't shoot naked boolits, yet, so leading is not the concern. The gun isn't real tight, but should do better than 5" @ 25 yards.
 
The first .45 colt Ruger I owned had super tight throats and shot shot gun like patterns. I sent it off to be reamed and when it came back it shot neat nice tiny groups. That was fifteen years ago since then I've have bought a reamer and have bought traded few everyone one of them I reamed and everyone of them shot better. I would ream it but that is just from my own experience YMMV
 
Both of my convertibles were tight. Had both cylinders on the Lipsey's Flat Top reamed, by CAS. Shoots good. The Blackhawk is next. I like to shoot them a little first. :wink: Haven't heard anyone say it made theirs worse.
 
I reamed everyone of mine. I bought the reamer for my orginal Vaquero and my groups were cut in half with that revolver. Then my New Model BH. Yep, groups got smaller. After that, I did all my .45 Colt revolvers as they were bought. Personally, I'd ream it especially if shooting lead was in it's future. I don't know why Ruger can't get it right at the factory. The newer ones are better... but still not perfect for lead.
 
I've always thought reaming the chambers on a .45 Colt is a good idea when two criteria are met:

1) You've verified that they are too small and/or inconsistent
2) It does not shoot tight groups

It sounds like you've met both of those. Now your only decision is how to go about it. You can send the cylinder to Cylindersmith (RugerForum member CAS), buy a reamer and do it yourself, or look for somebody who owns one and will lend it to you. Once you get your hands on the tool, it's very easy to do.
 
I don't shoot naked boolits, yet
I think you still will benefit a little. The .451 or (.452) jacketed are being squeezed down, so when they hit the barrel they aren't sized right to seal it.... So my guess is reaming will help even jacketed bullet accuracy (in your case). And lower the pressure too. Win win.... FWIW, it certainly will not be detrimental to accuracy to give it a shot, and it'll be ready for lead bullets when you are.
 
I had cylindersmith.com ream my NV .45 LC, a year and a half ago,,,,dimensions were identical to yours. It went from at 3+" grouping gun (with LSWC's), to a sub-2" treasure...all with a 4-5/8" bbl. Great gun, great gunsmith and a quick turn around 1+ week.. Rod
 
Well, it looks like reaming is in order then. Now just to decide how to go about it. I prefer to DIY, but for the cost of a reamer rental it may make more sense to send it away. Thanks for all the opinions.
 
I just did my 2 45 colt cyl. It took about 20min. to do both.
It cost me $53.95 to rent the reamer from 4-D reamer rentals.
And that's only because I had to rent a tap handle too or it would've cost a lot less.
They had to ship it in a Med. flat rate box. If I would've just rented the reamer it probably would've shipped in a small box.
The reamer is only $35 to rent plus shipping.
 
here is a reamer sized .4525 for $35 (for sale not rent). Don't remember where I got mine, but it was similarly priced. My experience is you can get about 2 cylinders sized before the HSS gets dull

DIY.... drill press/mill req'd

http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGP2SRIM?PMITEM=MT5029732&PARTPG=CGP2LMXE&PAMENU=&PAHDID=000000053418544&PARDID=914045721718131
 
Brownells sells the proper tool for the job. A chucking reamer will get the job done but if you are not extremely careful it can come out very wrong and the cylinder will be worse than before.
The Brownells reamer is piloted and of course sells for many times what that chucking reamer sells for. You pays your money and takes your chances.
 

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