The Ruger steel grip frame is larger...

broknprism

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
41
...than the alloy frame that came on the aforementioned NM Blackhawk. I tried the plastic grip panels on the white steel grip frame, and there is a generous amount of extra steel all the way around the panels. I know they didn't intend the whole frame to be ground down to mate with the panels, because the outside surfaces of the GF are smooth and polished, so what's going on here...? Is the alloy grip frame on current NM (+) lock BHs smaller than the old new model (-) lock grip frame? Does the grip frame nightmare with Ruger ever end...?

I should have bought a stainless SBH, but now I have a bunch of .45 Colt ammo. ; )
 
I hope we find the answer as I want to put a stainless without lock on my NM with lock and already put grips on the blue alloy piece Oh dear me.
 
The grip frame I have is steel in the white. I don't think it will accept the lock, so I'll need an old style spring stop. Somebody here will be making a batch of those soon. The steel grip frame was made by Ruger, but it appears to be a pre-lock design. The grips that came on my + lock gun are a lot smaller than the white steel grip frame. I've heard rumors that they made a smaller, more slender grip frame for some NM BHs, and I think I got one. To be honest, I like the older, bigger frame with fat grips. I bought this model so I could shoot +P .45 Colt occasionally, and I need a handful to hold onto.
 
Ruger doesn't really "match polish" the grips to the grip frame. (Take a look at a F-A revolver to see the "real deal".)

Swapping grip frames and grips can be a real crap shoot. That's exactly why there are several very accomplished grip makers on this Forum!

flatgate
 
flatgate said:
Swapping grip frames and grips can be a real crap shoot. That's exactly why there are several very accomplished grip makers on this Forum!

flatgate

And that's why I'll be visiting them after the grip frame is fit and blued. : )

I consider myself lucky to have a larger grip frame. Just a PITA to have to fit it and be without the gun. I would have lived with the alloy grip frame if they hadn't tried to install it while the conveyor belt was still moving, leaving all the hangover on one side. But as I said, it's a lot of gun for under 500.

Thanks Flatgate!
 
Maybe I should take that back. It's a lot of gun for under 500, plus 115 for the steel grip frame, plus whatever the smith will charge to fit and blue it, plus the gripmaker's charge to fit grips to it, plus all the shipping of stuff to bring the project together, all to build a gun Ruger could have made for $50 more, which is about what a stainless SBH would have cost. I'm an idiot.
 
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You might want to think about having the grip panels fit to the grip frame before you have the grip frame blued.

Were it mine, I'd talk to CaryC before making up my mind.

Just a thought.

:)
 
broknprism said:
Maybe I should take that back. It's a lot of gun for under 500, plus 115 for the steel grip frame, plus whatever the smith will charge to fit and blue it, plus the gripmaker's charge to fit grips to it, plus all the shipping of stuff to bring the project together, all to build a gun Ruger could have made for $50 more, which is about what a stainless SBH would have cost. I'm an idiot.

All may not be lost. What may be on your .45 is an XR-3 grip frame. If I recall correctly you said in an earlier post that it had an internal lock. I understand that the internal lock is on the XR-3. The grip frame you received may be the XR-3RED type. Be sure to check your private messages. If I am mistaken I apologize.
 
I won't despair. Too much skin in the game to quit now!

I compared the alloy frame on my gun to the white steel frame, and the bottom cutouts are different. The steel frame is a non-lock style, so I ordered some small parts from Numrich's to convert the gun to non-lock after the smith fits and blues the frame -- strut and strut support, grip pin, and trigger spring pin. Then, I suspect, a set of used or take-off factory walnuts from a non-lock NM will fit just fine. When it's finished, an all-steel blued BH in .45 Colt will be something to treasure.
 
Thats what I want to do only SS GF and fit an SS unfluted cyl. just to see how it looks. If it doesn't look good I can go back.
 
I put a NM steel SBH grip frame and grips along with a steel ejector rod housing on my 4-5/8" OM .45 Blackhawk using one of flatgate's "adapters". Did the same to a NM .45 "shortie" as well. They are nice guns.

I appreciate your efforts.

:)
 
You mean a SBH grip frame would have fit? And they exist -- as blued steel -- don't they? Probably not much fitting required, if any.
 
A SBH grip frame will attach to a similar-era Blackhawk or Single-Six. And a New Model version can be used on an Old Model via the "adapter" mentioned above. Note that the SBH thingy will have the wide trigger slot.

The "fit" may or may not be perfect. Depends on what you have and how picky you are.
 
All New Model Blackhawk and Super Blackhawk grip frames have wide trigger slots. (Even the Old Army did in it's final iterations.)

52401013.jpg


.44 Flattop from the early '60's. NEW MODEL steel XR3-RED grip frame. :D

flatgate
 
Flatgate, that's one heck of a crimp on those rounds in your photo. What did you use to get that deep of a crimp?
 
Roper said:
Flatgate, that's one heck of a crimp on those rounds in your photo. What did you use to get that deep of a crimp?

Lee FCD. I use the Lee crimpers on all my big bore reloads. Redding crimp die on my .32's. I shoot "hot loads", i.e. high performance but not overly high pressure loadings. I've found that a "FIRM" crimp helps achieve "complete combustion" and other advantages.

JMHO,

flatgate
 
Roper said:
What did you use to get that deep of a crimp?

Lee "Factory Crimp Die". I use a Redding crimper on my .32's. The loads are such that the powder column meets the seated bullet. One must choose the powder carefully. Fast powder in a "tight boiler" would be dangerous.

JMHO,

flatgate
 

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