Stuck Base Pin

[xtpshooter]

I recently picked up an old Ruger 3 screw 41 magnum. Looks to be in great condition but I cannot remove the base pin. I don't want to force the issue and screw up the finish on the gun, any suggestions for removal.

 

[wwb]

Is it perhaps an aftermarket pin.... like a Belt Mountain perchance? Look closely for a tiny socket-head setscrew.

If not, pull the base pin latch completely out and, with the hammer cocked, tap the back of the base pin with a brass drift and small hammer.

 

[xtpshooter]

Thanks for the info. It's the orginal base pin. The gun is 45 years old so the pin may have been in there for a while. I have it soaking in some Kroil for now.

 

[rugerguy]

Kroil should do it, that happens all too often......let it soak GOOD and just a 'tap' once it breaks free, they will come out, NO pliers or such, ""neatness counts"..................I've seen them that cylinder turns with the pin...........time will do that

 

[flatgate]

+1 on Kroil!

wwb's procedure is "right on". If that doesn't work then I'd remove the grip frame and the lockwork and clamp the gun in some padded "vice jaws" and, after more Kroil, get a brass drift and tap out the pin.

JMHO,

flatgate

 

[Chance]

Another thing you might want to check is the base pin latch. If it is screwed together to tight it will not allow the base pin to moved out.

 

[w5lx]

Brownells sells a Base Pin Removal Tool. It's a bit expensive for one-time use however.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22307/Product/SA_REVOLVER_DOUBLE_END_BASE_PIN_PULLER

 

[Anonymous]

I've seen more than one person not use any lube on the base pin / cylinder hole. I had a good smith tell me years ago to use grease, not oil. Because, it is actually a large surface area, and, grease won't shift so easy from gravity. So I've always coated the cylinder hole with a dab of lithium grease on a cotton swab.

 

[pisgah]

Frequently, a base pin will be turned a hair, causing it to bind against the barrel tightly. You might try padding a small set of pliers with a scrap of leather and CAREFULLY grasping the head of the pin and wiggling/twisting it slightly while pulling it outward, while pushing the latch in.

 

[J Miller]

Frequently, a base pin will be turned a hair, causing it to bind against the barrel tightly. You might try padding a small set of pliers with a scrap of leather and CAREFULLY grasping the head of the pin and wiggling/twisting it slightly while pulling it outward, while pushing the latch in.

pisgah beat me to it. I was going to post that. I have had that happen to a couple of my Rugers. When it does that silly base pin wedges very tight. No need to disassemble the gun and drive it out, just do what pisgah says. Rotate the pin with padded pliers and it will come right out.

Joe

 

[Motex66]

I bought am Old Model that had a base pln that would not come out. Turned the base pin latch which was tight 180 degrees.pushed the latch pin came came out easly. Looked closely at the lach it had a cruve to it. .Home boy cylinder pin.jump cure. Not a good idea. New pln, lach and spring all is well

John

 

[xtpshooter]

Well I finally got back around at looking at this stuck base pin issue. I removed the spring latch assembly and tapped the back of the pin with a brass drift. After about a quarter inch it came right on out. After looking it over, there was no rust, it appears to hang up about a half inch before its fully seated. The pin itself appears to have light rings all the length of the pin, maybe machine marks. I reseated it again and it promptly stuck but at least I know I can get it out easly. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Rainman]

Glad you got it out and found the source of your problem.

I did want to 1X what bearcatter said about using grease rather than oil on the base pin. I have used Gold Grease for years and it works better over the long haul than any oil I've ever found. I use it sparingly on the ratchet notches on the rear of the cylinder as well.

FWIW,
Dan