SS Issues Mainspring & Lack Of Clicking Noise

[Zermatt7]

On my New Model Single Six I over-lowered the poundage on my main spring by heating it with a torch :cry: Now I know you are supposed to cut small amounts off at a time.

Should I get a Factory Mainspring at 23# or a Wolf at 19# & where do you get them. Kind of leaning toward the factory poundage.

Also, now that its back together it no longer makes the clicking sound when you rotate the cylinder...It functions & fires great, but getting the spring in under the gate was a bear !

Thanks !

tried to post a pic but not sure if it took ?

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[G2]

Wolff has the most options;

http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolvers/RUGER/SINGLE%20ACTION%20SERIES/cID3/mID52/dID228#416

or if you want a factory one call Ruger or Midway has them.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=515784

The lack of clicking makes me think you don't have the pawl plunger/ spring assembly in or in correctly.

Got to Ruger.com and download a owners manual, then read it. :roll:

IMO If your going to lower the Hammer Plunger Spring #, One really needs to have a action job performed, or have shot ~25, 000 rounds (poor mans action job) first. Things really need to be properly slicked up first or it really can be a a bag of problems.
Torching, or cliping springs really not the best way to go, but to each his own.

Nice looking two tone gun you got there. :D

 

[Zermatt7]

Thanks, This all got started because I took it apart and polished all the internals (even the transfer bar) to a mirror smooth finish with wet 1000g sand paper and ALOT of Flitz.
(No metal was removed)Took several days. But I think I'll go with the factory spring ?
Does dropping the 4#'s from 23# ruger spring to a 19# Wolf spring make that much felt difference in the actual trigger pull weight ?

 

[G2]

Does dropping the 4#'s from 23# ruger spring to a 19# Wolf spring make that much felt difference in the actual trigger pull weight ?

NO felt difference. in trigger pull.
Definitly a difference in cocking.

If you want to lighten the trigger pull here is some good info.

http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

 

[flatgate]

Be advised that "softer" mainsprings will increase the "lock time" of the revolver. Some folks think that makes "hitting things" a bit more difficult since the shooter much maintain his "perfect sight picture" for a longer period of time.

Me? NOT ONE of my revolvers have lighter than "standard" mainsprings and a few of my "big bores" have been "owner fitted" with heavier than standard mainsprings.

JMHO,

flatgate

 

[Zermatt7]

Flatgate...Thanks, I'm going to go with the stock main spring.
I'll try this route instead...
http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

How do i get my click noise back ?

Eric/zermatt7

 

[flatgate]

How do i get my click noise back ?

Eric/zermatt7

The "click noise" comes from the pawl plunger spring forcing the pawl into the cylinder's ratchet. Did you install that spring "backwards"?

The assembly is installed "plunger first" in the rear flat of the cylinder frame, prior to installation of the grip frame.

Try reading the series of articles posted on the Real Guns website.

Click Here

There are several installments and they are linked via the above "First Installment" article.

flatgate

 

[Zermatt7]

Thanks For The Help !

Removed the cylinder & checked the pawl for tension...There was none.
I might have put it in inplace of the Cylinder Latch Spring & Pawl :roll:

I'll try to remedy the situation after the new factory mainspring gets here !

 

[flatgate]

The pawl spring and plunger are quite small whereas the cylinder latch's spring and plunger assembly are about twice as large.

Pawl spring goes in a hole in the cylinder frame and the cylinder latch spring goes in a hole in the grip frame.

RTFM. :D

flatgate