SR9 Silencer?

You'd need a longer threaded barrel and at the moment, no one makes one. If you have in mind to silence a weapon, forethought prior to purchasing said gun should include the availability of threaded barrels. I doubt you'll see any for a while, the market for suppressed SR9s isn't exactly booming.

Josh
 
You could try duct taping a 2 liter soda bottle to the end....

Really though the bang bang makes them run so fast!!!
 
Tornado-Technologies might be able to thread and extended your barrel but I'm not sure if its possible the way the barrel has a larger collar where it locks up at the muzzle.
 
You could haul around a sack of Idaho potatoes. They would be good for one round, and could double as a side dish with butter and sour cream. lol... :lol:


boomer 8)
 
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If you could find someone to thread it for you, you could, in theory, find an SR9 full size barrel, and have them shave/thread it and fit a silencer on it... in theory... the full size barrel should fit in the compacts' slide. Should... hope, maybe this helps... Good luck finding someone to machine threads for you, remember, most silencers are reverse threaded, meaning left tightens it.
 
Will Hayden at Red Jacket says his motto is,
"if you can dream it, we can build it".
I imagine all you need do is give him a call, and have deep enough pockets to fund the project. LOL.
Sal
 
A silenced SR9c? I don't think anyone's even attempted this before and for good reason. If we can pull this off it'll be a real game changer.

(Will Hayden impression)
 
Since we've pulled up a year old thread, I might as well mention that Galloway is working on a threaded barrel. I haven't seen it yet, and I can't say how much work has been done. Just that it is something he's trying to get done.

Josh
 
http://ingunowners.com/forums/class_iii_nfa/182050-suppressed_ruger_sr9.html

If the link works... It has been done. I inquired about cost I think it is in the thread.
 
dak109 said:
http://ingunowners.com/forums/class_iii_nfa/182050-suppressed_ruger_sr9.html

If the link works... It has been done. I inquired about cost I think it is in the thread.

To be honest, as soon as I closed this tab, doing an adapter like that was the first thing that came to mind. Looks cool. Modifying the barrel end isn't hard, and making adapters, even in a small machine shop, shouldn't be too expensive. I am curious to see how that adapter holds up after recoil and whatever stresses there are. I don't know how heavy that silencer is.

Josh
 
The pistol in the pics look like it was threaded internally. Guess that'd be ok if you left the adapter in all the time, but if it were ever removed and fired, it would foul up the threads for future use.

To me, a better design would be to externally thread the barrel tip so that bullet performance would remain the same whether the silencer was installed or not.

Also, that silencer seems a mite long to me. Not questioning the design, given the parameters used, since I know nothing about silencer design, but seems like it could be a little shorter.
 
desertrat said:
The pistol in the pics look like it was threaded internally. Guess that'd be ok if you left the adapter in all the time, but if it were ever removed and fired, it would foul up the threads for future use.

To me, a better design would be to externally thread the barrel tip so that bullet performance would remain the same whether the silencer was installed or not.

Also, that silencer seems a mite long to me. Not questioning the design, given the parameters used, since I know nothing about silencer design, but seems like it could be a little shorter.

Look again, it's clearly threaded externally. There's a little bit left of the half inch or so Ruger leaves a little thick so it locks up in the muzzle fine. And that can does look a little long, but I'm like you, unfamiliar with silencer design.

Josh
 
jhearne said:
...Look again, it's clearly threaded externally....
I can see the threads you're talking about, but those are not the ones I'm referring to. I'm referring to the threads (assuming its threaded) that secure the adapter into the barrel. "IF" its threaded into the barrel (and not press fit), its clearly done with an "internal" thread.

Another thing. That threaded portion looks like a separate adapter to me that was "added" to the end of the barrel after it was modified. I'm sure that what we're looking at is not the end of the original barrel that was turned and threaded. Looks more like a male SS pipe nipple that was inserted.
 
Reread the post. 2nd sentence. If that barrel was sent to where I work, we'd just turn the barrel and thread it just like that one for an adapter.

threaded.png


Josh
 
Well, I think that's what I had said, isn't it. It looks like the end of the barrel was threaded internally & then they jammed a male pipe nipple in there.

That said, my previous posted comment was about where I thought a better place to thread the barrel would be. That's all.
 
My dealer was explaining to me how a suppressor on a semi-auto would need some type of internal spring system....

or maybe he was just talking about changing the recoil spring, which they had to do with that SR9

Also, I'm wondering if the end of the slide would not also have to be modified for the adapter to work? How thin can you cut down the end of the barrel for threads before it is too thin?
 
blume357 said:
My dealer was explaining to me how a suppressor on a semi-auto would need some type of internal spring system....

or maybe he was just talking about changing the recoil spring, which they had to do with that SR9

Also, I'm wondering if the end of the slide would not also have to be modified for the adapter to work? How thin can you cut down the end of the barrel for threads before it is too thin?

He might have been referring to a booster or a Nielson device.

From major-malfunction.com: "A booster, or "Nielsen device" is a mechanical device located at the rear of most handgun suppressors. Its purpose is to ensure that semi-auto handguns will properly cycle the next round after firing. Without a booster, most sem-auto's will have difficulty feeding the next round into the chamber. Malfunctions (failure to eject, stove pipe, failure to feed, etc.) occur because the extra weight/mass at the end of the barrel will slow/impede its movement as it travels out of battery. The booster helps overcome the suppressor's added weight on the barrel by using the explosive blast (as the bullet clears the end of the barrel) to help push the barrel backwards, out of battery (see animation below). "
 
blume357 said:
My dealer was explaining to me how a suppressor on a semi-auto would need some type of internal spring system....

or maybe he was just talking about changing the recoil spring, which they had to do with that SR9

Also, I'm wondering if the end of the slide would not also have to be modified for the adapter to work? How thin can you cut down the end of the barrel for threads before it is too thin?

Depends on how fine the thread is. The finer the thread, the shallower the thread. The adapter fits over the thread and should probably match or get dang close to the original ID. That or they made the adapter a little oversized and bored out the slide. That would require mill time and other stuff to match. I'm betting the adapter just fits inside the factory specs.
 
blume357 said:
.....How thin can you cut down the end of the barrel for threads before it is too thin?

My take on it is that barrel wall thickness, in many cases, is more than necessary to handle cartridge pressures. On semi-autos like the SR9 it may be that the wall thickness is what it is, more for balance & recoil functioning than it is for pressure. Take a look at some of the .380 mouse guns & notice how thin the barrel wall is on them. Another example is the classic Colt 1911 .45 auto. Barrel isn't all that thick there either. Granted the .380 doesn't produce the pressures that a 9mm does but it approaches it.
 
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