SR1911 Commander LW FTF

godsend1

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 20, 2014
Messages
4
I was finally able to get to the range.

Bought new, I fired 50 rounds of Speer Lawman 230gr RN, and 50 rounds of 230gr Gold Dot HP.

There were several occasions when chambering a round by both methods, dropping the slide, and sling shotting the slide with a full 7 round Ruger mag, where it failed to feed. The only way to clear it was to cycle the slide. This happened with both TMJ and GD's. Unfortunately I only brought 1 of the 2 mags with me, so it mat be magazine dependant.

Had no other FTF's, no FTE's

My son got a couple of brass to the face, I'm pretty sure I saw a couple fly over my head. I took a slow motion video of him firing a magazine of the RN.

I know, he has a horrible flinch, we'll work on that. It doesn't look like he limp wristed it.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks,

Slow motion: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwKf6zXBqzY

Super slow motion: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UL9ypFp7KIk

 
It is generally a good idea to field strip, clean and lubricate a new gun prior to your first range session. This is very important with metal framed autos. The parts need to wear in before everything functions smoothly.

I like to lubricate the slide rails and outside of the barrel with grease. I oil the other parts.

I also like to cycle the slide a hundred times or more to help the break in process.
 
charlesappel said:
It is generally a good idea to field strip, clean and lubricate a new gun prior to your first range session. This is very important with metal framed autos. The parts need to wear in before everything functions smoothly.
I like to lubricate the slide rails and outside of the barrel with grease. I oil the other parts.
I also like to cycle the slide a hundred times or more to help the break in process.
Good advise, I prefer to use oil only.

I take it one step further and hand cycle the slide around 250 times, BEFORE
I do a detail strip/clean. That tends to get a lot of pieces working well
together. After the detail strip/clean/lubricate, I hand cycle a new gun
another 200 times, field strip, clean/lubricate, then head for the range.

I've yet to have a problem with any that I have done that with. Parts just
need to get to know each other, to get them to work well together.

Are there some 1911s that will work well without that? Sure are, but they
cost four to six times what the Ruger does.
(I actually saw one that was $2,400 new that malfunctioned until it received
the above care :shock: )

Have fun, shoot safe. :D
 
godsend1 said:
I know, he has a horrible flinch, we'll work on that. It doesn't look like he limp wristed it.
For his age, he is doing well. I suggest he watch the Todd Jarret video
several times (I've watched it dozens of times and still pick up on a new
"item" most times. What I see that would help him the most starts about
40 seconds into the video. :D
(Todd is not a master of words, but shows you a LOT of good technique. :D )

I just wish they still had the full length version of that video, posted! :shock:



P.S. One of the "demo" guns might be of use for his training. It will let him
practice at home with full safety.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019I0AWA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
 
charlesappel said:
It is generally a good idea to field strip, clean and lubricate a new gun prior to your first range session.

Excellent advice right there ....... don't ask me how I know. :oops: :lol:
 
hittman said:
charlesappel said:
It is generally a good idea to field strip, clean and lubricate a new gun prior to your first range session.

Excellent advice right there ....... don't ask me how I know. :oops: :lol:

Every once in awhile I forget to do this, now I have a cleaning kit and lube in the range bag.
 
charlesappel said:
It is generally a good idea to field strip, clean and lubricate a new gun prior to your first range session. This is very important with metal framed autos. The parts need to wear in before everything functions smoothly.

I like to lubricate the slide rails and outside of the barrel with grease. I oil the other parts.

I also like to cycle the slide a hundred times or more to help the break in process.

I agree, It was field stripped cleaned, then lubed with FireClean. Conservative estimate on slide cycles and dry fires would be 300-500, prior to first shooting.
 
Just finished reading the rest of the replies, I'm on the right track.

Lots of cleaning and cycling.
 
I really like the super slow motion movie. It looks to me as if the extractor is letting the case go so that the case just bounces around in the ejection port instead of being flipped out of the ejection port. How does ejection look if you fire it without a magazine in the pistol? Does the fired case fall down through the magazine well? If you slowly extract a fired case by operating the slide by hand, does the fired case stay on the face of the slide or does it fall off? Unless the case ejects properly when the pistol is fired without a magazine and unless the case stays on the face of the slide, you probably need some more extractor tension.

I have had more trouble with my Ruger commander-size 1911 that I have with my full size Ruger 1911 or about a dozen other 1911 pistols of various brands. I have toyed with the ejector and extractor so the cases do actually clear the pistol in a rather consistent pattern.
 
I gave mine a quick lube the first time at the range. 100 flawless rounds without any malfunction. You 1911 needs to be looked at and adjusted.
 
godsend1 said:
My son got a couple of brass to the face, I'm pretty sure I saw a couple fly over my head.
I had a 1911 that tried to put brass right between my eyes. Actually landed one on the bill of a cap once. Now that will give you a flinch.

The fix was to reshape the extractor.
 
I'm going to suggest a magazine issue. Exercise the mag spring, see if there is any grit or burrs, etc stuttering the follower? Then try a couple other mags.
Any new gun can have grit or burrs anywhere there is metal. Be the final inspector. And then do not over-oil the gun.

I had a NIB stainless Springfield Armory triple once when I failed to clean it before firing, wherein I may have noticed burrs or chips impeding the sear and guts of the machine. It is always a good idea to load only a couple rounds the first few times you fire a brand new gun - experience talking here.

Safety first.
 
I always field strip, inspect, clean and lube and new to me gun even if brand new. One thing I noticed is the CMD-LW was very dry inside when I field stripped it. Mine has been great so far with 230gr FMJ and 200gr cast SWC handloads.
 

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