SP101 Cylinder Binding

[Uncleman]

I had put about 180 rounds of 38's and 357's through my new SP101 over the course of 3 trips to the range and never had an issue. I clean my firearms after every trip to the range. I replaced the factory springs with 10# springs after the first time to the range where I had fired about 50 rounds, no problem with the next 130 or so rounds.
The other day I was firing factory 130 gr. FMJ 38's and after about 20 rounds the cylinder started to bind. I got it freed up it and had the same binding result after 3 rounds - called it quits after that.

Took the SP home and gave it a very good cleaning. Found a little residue build up at the bottom of the forcing cone that may have escaped my other cleanings as it took some effort to get it removed. Every thing else seemed fine.

I've seen some other posts that address this issue. I'm a S&W and Colt revolver owner, this is my first Ruger and the finish is not on the same level as they are. As I could find no obvious mechanical issue I'm thinking that maybe I should polish the cylinder ( maybe also the forcing cone ? ) with some 2000 grit and smooth things up a bit. I got the Ruger as a carry gun but I'm a little concerned now.

Any thoughts / ideas are welcome.

Thanks

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Check the B/C gap while rotating the cylinder to make sure everything is straight and the gap remains a constant 4-6 thousands. Also check that the cartridge case heads or primers are not dragging the back of the frame. Sometimes low power loads can leave the primers sticking out a little. Lastly clean any debris out from under the ejector star. Sometimes carbon or a powder kernel can cause problems there. When ejecting cases always hold the gun up so cases drop free. You might need to clean the front of the cylinder and the end of the barrel with a mild abrasive like Flitz Polish to remove carbon bulid up.

edit to add: Be sure the cylinder rotates freely on the crane, lube as necessary.

 

[Uncleman]

Thanks Jimbo - I checked the B/C gap and it is a constant .005 throughout a full cylinder rotation. `At this point I'm going to attribute the binding to operator error - ME. I'm thinking that I must have done a sloppy job of cleaning prior to the last range visit (finding the residue on the forcing cone after so few rounds makes me question the last cleaning and what else I might have missed).
Any way, the SP is as clean as a whistle now and next time to the range I'll be firing 158 gr. 357's and see what happens.
I have high hope for this great revolver - I really like it a lot.
Thanks

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Since you mentioned that you replaced the springs be sure to check that the trigger is resetting everytime also. If it doesn't reset or you short stroke the trigger the gun will jam.

 

[Bearcat]

I would echo Jimbo's recommendation to clean UNDER the ejector star. Lots of soot can build up under there, causing binding. Best of luck!

 

[OldePhart]

Since you mentioned that you replaced the springs be sure to check that the trigger is resetting everytime also. If it doesn't reset or you short stroke the trigger the gun will jam.

+1 on this. My new SP101 got where it wouldn't reset after dry firing it a hundred or so times even with the factory springs. It would hang up about 1/8" from fully forward and needed a push on the back to fully reset. Even after doing a good action job on it and really getting the trigger so I'm pretty happy with it overall it still would occasionally fail to reset with a 10lb spring and I had to put the factory spring back in. It's a bit stiff but smooth and dead reliable with the factory spring.