SP101 Cleaning

[Rob1109]

I'm wondering how others clean the area around the breach. Specfically, that small "shoulder" where the barrel threads through the frame. Yes, elbow grease is at the crux, however, what tools cleaning agents etc. I'm in there with a toothpick w/o much success. Thanks in advance.....

 

[wwb]

A bronze brush and Hoppe's #9.

 

[J. D. Moreguns]

Pipe cleaners and #9 work good for me. Give it a try they don't cost much.

 

[Shoot44]

That's an area in any revolver that is hard to get really clean. When I decide to really do it, I cut a small slice of "Lead Away" cloth, and do the 'shoe-shine' bit around the forcing cone. Lots of work, but it does get it pretty clean.
All in all, I'm not really sure it needs to be that clean, tho....

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I use a rag with solvent to shoe-shine between the forcing cone and the top strap and use fingernails, toothpicks and bent plastic thingys like dental instruments sometimes with a piece of "lead away" cloth to clean that area as well as a toothbrush and none of it has helped my shooting one bit. :roll:

...Jimbo

 

[Rob1109]

I use a rag with solvent to shoe-shine between the forcing cone and the top strap and use fingernails, toothpicks and bent plastic thingys like dental instruments sometimes with a piece of "lead away" cloth to clean that area as well as a toothbrush and none of it has helped my shooting one bit. :roll:

...Jimbo

Someone got me started polishing the SS and then, of course, I got the lead away cloth for the front of the cylinders and near the forcing cone and I'm trying the portion near the top strap (w/o) success all because of some Gunny Sgt. who has his SP101 glowing in the dark! After all this how can I shoot 'cuz it'll get dirty so now I have to buy another for shooting and this for show! Geeezzzz! (Also had to go out to buy Mother's Mag. polish)

 

[maxpress]

.177 cal boresnake

 

[bub]

It doesn't have to be perfect, unless you are of the type that just can't stand seeing the burn/scorch rings on the front of the cylinder. Myself, I just take an old toothbrush, dip in some solvent (Hoppes #9 for me) and scrub off the carbon and crud and call it good. I don't try to worry about scrubbing off the burn marks there or on the front of the cylinder. As long as the crud is off, it's good.

If, however, you are of they type that insists on removing the burn marks, the above-mentioned Lead Away cloth works wonders. Using the "shoe-shine" method on the top of the barrel stub/forcing cone works well. It's just that, myself, I don't see the need. The burn marks will be back with the first shot you fire out of the gun and you'll need to scrub it all over again. Remove the crud and call it good. Think of the burn marks as proof that you actually shoot your guns, instead of just looking at them. That's how I rationalize it, anyway.

Bub

 

[rug357]

I don't clean my guns very often as I don't have much free time and what little I do have I prefer to spend it out shooting my guns instead of cleaning them. Like most of my guns, I use any commercial bore cleaner with copper brush to clean the cylinder chamber and the bore. Then I use Walmart engine degreaser and old tooth brush to clean everything else including outside surface. I then just wipe it off with a cotton rag and then spray the gun with CLP and wipe it all off again. Takes about 5 minutes for each gun and I usually clean them every 1,000 rounds or so or once a year.

Here is a pic of my SP101 that I picked up in 1996.
Still looks good and works great.

 

[56-210]

I get a little anal with the cleaning, and go after this very spot and the cylinder face on my GP...I've had good results with the nver-dull

Mark

 

[357phase]

If you want to take the powder burn off the cylinder face,try a pencil eraser.Does a pretty good job for cheap.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I don't clean my guns very often as I don't have much free time and what little I do have I prefer to spend it out shooting my guns instead of cleaning them.

Here is a pic of my SP101 that I picked up in 1996.
Still looks good and works great.

I got just one thing to say; Droollllll. That is one fine picture. '96 really.

...Jimbo

 

[MountainWalker]

Try Hoppes Elite cleaner. The stuff is expensive but breaks up the carbon, allowing cleaning with a bronze brush.

 

[Boanerge]

I'm wondering how others clean the area around the breach. Specfically, that small "shoulder" where the barrel threads through the frame. Yes, elbow grease is at the crux, however, what tools cleaning agents etc. I'm in there with a toothpick w/o much success. Thanks in advance.....

Pipe cleaners and Hoppe's #9

 

[rug357]

I don't clean my guns very often as I don't have much free time and what little I do have I prefer to spend it out shooting my guns instead of cleaning them.

Here is a pic of my SP101 that I picked up in 1996.
Still looks good and works great.

I got just one thing to say; Droollllll. That is one fine picture. '96 really.

...Jimbo

Thanks but I didn't take the picture.
I took a bunch of my guns to a local professional photographer to have them photographed. I'm having them all printed 14"x14" or 10"x14" and framed to hang in my room. Even the wife thinks they look great.

The revolver is from 1996. I think I paid $375 OTD at the time.
I shot it a lot for a while then sat in the safe for a while and I started shooting it again recently. Has total of about 3,000 round through it now.

 

[Shoot44]

Try Hoppes Elite cleaner. The stuff is expensive but breaks up the carbon, allowing cleaning with a bronze brush.

Agree. Before I found the 'lead away', Elite was all I used on the cylinder fronts. But the leadaway does a bit better job. Again, if it matters....