Soldering Fool

[RatCat454]

Working on several stainless Ruger Old Army's (ROA).

What is the composition of the solder Mother Ruger used on the front sight base and the docking station for the loading lever? Is it something like 4/96 silver/tin? Would a simple propane or MAP-Pro hand torch have the capacity to remove the items and reattach on another stainless ROA barrel? I have MAPP and acetylene as well.

A search at forum and online did not further very much Ruger solder edification. Are there any YouTube videos that deal with Ruger-Smithy soldering? Any tips?

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.

 

[NikA]

No idea the composition, but I have hard/high temp soldered sights on steel and stainless guns before. You want a silver-bearing high temp alloy and plenty of the nasty acidic flux to clean the oxides that form when heating. Significant refinishing after, either re-blue or wire brush if stainless.

As for temp, MAPP or acetylene will be fine. I've also used one of the fancy mixing torches with propane (TS8000, I think), solder needs to get to roughly 1200F to flow correctly.

 

[willicd76]

I would be uncomfortable taking gun steels to 1200* and not losing temper. Annealing on high carbon steels is said to take place at 800*. Thoughts?

 

[BULL'S-EYE]

This is what I've used for many years (decades.) I've done a whole bunch of underlugs for pins on muzzleloaders, and several front sights on Ruger barrel shortening projects as well. It's lead free and you can just use a butane torch ( it melts at 430° F ) ...And, I've yet to have a properly prepared and soldered piece ever come loose.

 

[NikA]

I would be uncomfortable taking gun steels to 1200* and not losing temper. Annealing on high carbon steels is said to take place at 800*. Thoughts?

Different temperature scale. Annealing in steels is 800+ deg Celsius, 1200 deg Fahrenheit will barely start to show red.

 

[willicd76]

Thanks for the clarification. That makes sense!

 

[RatCat454]

BULL'S-EYE, thanks for the info. I had a forgotten (maybe 30 years?) container of Stay-Brite on the shelf with my welding staples. I did notice it is 4/96 like the solder touted for gunsmith work at the leading vendors. I will do a trial run maybe with soldering a stainless screw to a scrap of stainless.

What did you use to liberate the stainless front sight base and/or lug? Is the propane enough heat to defeat the Ruger mounting?

 

[BULL'S-EYE]

BULL'S-EYE, thanks for the info. I had a forgotten (maybe 30 years?) container of Stay-Brite on the shelf with my welding staples. I did notice it is 4/96 like the solder touted for gunsmith work at the leading vendors. I will do a trial run maybe with soldering a stainless screw to a scrap of stainless.

What did you use to liberate the stainless front sight base and/or lug? Is the propane enough heat to defeat the Ruger mounting?

Ruger uses silver solder, so to reclaim the front sight, I've always just put the barrel cutoffs into either my propane gas forge, or heat treatment oven @ 1500° for around 8-10 minutes and they fall right off. Never had any luck getting one to come off with a butane torch, can't get it hot enough.