S&W K Frame verses Ruger 357 CC gun

[tjtoolbox]

In my last comment, I asked if a SP 101 is the same size as a S&W K frame?
All replys welcome.
Joe



Looking to buy a Med. frame CC gun. My options are a S&W model 19 or 66 against a Ruger med frame .357. I am a Smith guy but the Ruger looks tempting.
Welcome all info. and comments.
Joe

 

[anachronism]

What Ruger "med" frame? Either way, be it a Security Six or GP100, you can expect a longer service life from the Ruger. K frames aren't the most durable 357s available.

 

[Snake45]

The Rugers are bigger, heavier guns. Will last longer but be more of a PITA to tote around CC all day. Smith K is a fine, fine CC gun, and don't overlook the 3" round-butt versions of the 10, 13, 64, and 65, too. IMHO these are about as fine CC revolvers as have ever been made.

 

[Hugh]

My only concealed carry, and field carry, revolver from 1973 until 2009 was a 4" blue Ruger Security Six .357. From time to time after 1998 I carried a .45 ACP Colt Combat Commander concealed. In 2009 I went to a 3-1/16" SP-101 .357; easier to conceal. Still have the Security Six and it will remain one of my favorite double actions.

 

[Meeko]

The 2 1/2" K frames are nice but for current manufactured the S&W 686 L frame is the same size (minus 1/2 barrel length difference) than the GP 3". I would go with a Ruger 3" GP 100 with a IWB or even a 2 1/4" SP 101 spurless hammer model. You won't wear it out. (I plan to add both those sometime)

I have an L frame that is good too so thats a hard choice. Good luck

 

[mattsbox99]

Comparably, I think the Security Sixes are the same weight as a K frame.

I have a well made Bianchi for my GP so it carries well, but its not a CC gun. I'd go with the Security Six for lighter package.

 

[two bit okie]

one of the advantages of being a big guy, (fat), is that I can carry a 4 inch mod 27, in 357 mag.

 

[roaddog28]

This is what I would look for if I were you. A S&W model 13 or 65 in 3 inch. In Ruger a Speed Six in 2.75 or 3 inch. Very good weapons.
Howard

 

[bearman49709]

I used to carry a 3" GP100, then I switched to a 4" S&W 66. The S&W trigger is so much smoother that I can shoot it a lot better.

 

[Triggernosis]

And don't forget about Ruger's just-announced SP101 in a 4" .357....

 

[Ladobe]

"...you can expect a longer service life from the Ruger. K frames aren't the most durable 357s available."

Personal experiance says otherwise to me. The M19 6" I bought used in the late 60's sent a ton of lead downrange. It was always a go to working gun for target, match, hunting, plinking, etc for the 40+ years I owned it and was still as solid and accurate as the day I got it when I sold it a couple of years ago. Yeah it had holster wear and some bumps and bruises from hard use in the outdoors, but a heck of a lot of factory and fairly hot handloads that I shot in it had not hurt it a bit (plus whatever was shot by the previous owner(s). I have a Ruger SA I bought new in 1971 that has seen even more use, is still going strong and is as reliable and accurate as it ever was. So their revolvers do hold up tool. Same with Colts I had for 4-5 decades, and others.

Brings the question to mind... how many short barreled revolvers that are decated to personal CC use are EVER going to see enough use to wear out?

FWIW

 

[Tx gun runner]

The K frame was design for the 38 spec and will handle the 357 . The L frame was designed for the 357 almost the same size as the K frame but a little beefier at forcing cone .

 

[Ladobe]

True, the .357 Combat Magnum was born from a beefed up K38 Combat Masterpiece designed to shoot 158gr lead bullets. If used as intended with reasonable loads and bullets they will last as long as any other revolver though. Lots of articles have been written about the Mod 19, including the why's that some of them have cracked at the bottom of the barrel throat. The long list of new and lighter bullets that came down the pike, the ever present push for more velocity and down range destruction in the 357MAG expalin those failures pretty well though - the revolvers are not being used as they were originally designed to be used. IMO you can't fault the revolver for misuse.

Maybe just dumb luck on my part as I only shot 158 cast in mine all the early years, and when I did go to jacketed bullets I stayed with the 158's and worked up new loads for them. No reason to fix what wasn't broke, so I never shot lighter bullets in it. I pushed my M19 within reason and it handled it just fine through countless rounds, but I never tried to make it a race horse either.

 

[Lee Martin]

I love Rugers but am partial to S&W lines. These two go everywhere I go:

 

[Triggernosis]

Yes, I can't imagine what it would do to your hand to shoot loads in a Model 19, or even a Model 60 or 66, that would damage it in any way. It would HAVE to hurt!

 

[Lee Martin]

I don't push mine hard. In fact, my carry load is 5.0 of Green Dot with a 200 grain soft-cast slug.

 

[surveyor47]

S&W told me just a few days back that they are no longer producing replacement parts for K-frame magnums. If you split your barrels forcing cone with a 125 grain JHP 357, you are out of luck unless you can find a used barrel. They advise the L-frame due to wear problems with Ks and recommed 38 Specials and 158 grain 357s only. I can and do live within that limitation. If you want to use 125 grain JHP 357s or similar ammo then the Ruger SP101 is a better gun and it conceals better in hot weather than a K. I consider the SP101 as a sort of indespensible Kit Gun. I love my S&Ws, but I can always rely on my SP101 tank.

 

[Lee Martin]

Yes, I can't imagine what it would do to your hand to shoot loads in a Model 19, or even a Model 60 or 66, that would damage it in any way. It would HAVE to hurt!

On the topic of recoil, I once tried full house 357 in my 60 (158 gr loads). You'd be surprised...it wasn't too bad on the wrist.

 

[surveyor47]

Lil Gun will drive a 158 grain JHP faster than the factory 125 grain JHPs that were so famous for splitting forcing cones on Ks. I consider Hodgdons starting loads with this powder as MAXIMUM in my GP100 and recoil isnt bad at all. Accuracy is excellent. Heat buildup in the barrel is the biggest problem I see with Lil Gun. The barrel gets so hot in 25 rounds that I cannot touch the barrel.

 

[Bucks Owin]

True, the .357 Combat Magnum was born from a beefed up K38 Combat Masterpiece designed to shoot 158gr lead bullets. If used as intended with reasonable loads and bullets they will last as long as any other revolver though. Lots of articles have been written about the Mod 19, including the why's that some of them have cracked at the bottom of the barrel throat. The long list of new and lighter bullets that came down the pike, the ever present push for more velocity and down range destruction in the 357MAG expalin those failures pretty well though - the revolvers are not being used as they were originally designed to be used. IMO you can't fault the revolver for misuse.

Maybe just dumb luck on my part as I only shot 158 cast in mine all the early years, and when I did go to jacketed bullets I stayed with the 158's and worked up new loads for them. No reason to fix what wasn't broke, so I never shot lighter bullets in it. I pushed my M19 within reason and it handled it just fine through countless rounds, but I never tried to make it a race horse either.

Good post and good advice....When it first came to me (NIB!) I "leaned on" my M19-4 with some jacketed 158 gr 1350 fps loads, and some 125 gr running even faster which it handled gracefully and accurately, but I soon clued in that both myself and my 6" Combat Maggie were happier with a 150-165 gr cast bullet bullet at 1200 fps...
Snappy recoil and muzzleblast both more agreeable now, and I worry not about cracking the FC... :wink:

My pick for a concealed "little" .357 (that'll stand anything the shooter can!) would be an SP-101... :wink: