My Extra High #6 scope rings arrived from Ruger today and I have the Leupold 2.5 x 8 variable scope mounted temporarily.
Basically, it's just slapped up on top for checking clearances.
Nothing is tightened yet.
Everything is cleaned and deburred, and I am waiting for a bottle of Loctite 222 from Amazon. (purple, low strength for small screws)
I made a BIG mistake when I mounted the fixed 4 X Leupold scope many years ago.
I was out of Loctite 222 and substituted medium strength blue Loctite 242.
When I tried to remove the scope ring caps attachment screws when doing this scope swap, six of the eight Torx heads stripped out. (T-10 bit)
I took the scope off the revolver with the rings attached and stuck it in my Bridgeport milling machine and milled off the heads of the six screws.
That got the scope rings off of the 4 X scope without doing any scope damage, but those OEM #4 medium rings, the top clamps, are now junk.
I gave the lower half of the rings some propane torch heat, and successfully removed the threaded remaining portions of the six screws.
But I wasn't going to attempt propane torch heat with the scope still clamped in the scope rings.
If you strip out the scope ring top caps screw heads and don't have a Bridgeport milling machine, tooling, and the skills to use the equipment, you will likely end up with an very expensive visit to a qualified gunsmith/machinist.
I'm also going to source some replacement T-10 and T-15 Torx bits, removing several scopes did a number on several Torx bits.
So if you are wanting a Leupold Vari-X 2.5 - 8 variable scope on top of a Ruger Super Blackhawk Hunter revolver, and not bottom out your rear sight for clearance, you will need to use #6 Extra High Ruger rings. (typically used on a rifle with a massive 62 mm objective lens scope)
The Ruger Super Blackhawk Hunter has a few items that stick up and get in the way. (front and rear sights)
I want to retain the iron sights, and have them sighted in ready to use.
A large screwdriver at deer camp, or a coin and a pair of vise grips will get a damaged/defective scope off the revolver, and the iron sights are sighted in and ready to go. Anyway, that's my plan.
I take rosin from string instrument bow usage (cello) and take that "puck" of rosin, and using a knife, scrape off a little pile of powdered rosin into
a coffee can plastic lid. Then I add a tiny amount of denatured alcohol into the coffee can lid, and dissolve the powdered rosin until it's an orange liquid.
I "paint" (Q-tip) the inside of the scope rings (the one inch diameter bore surfaces in this case) with the rosin liquid, it's similar in viscosity to varnish.
After the rosin liquid dries, you install the scope, assemble the rings, and tighten all the screws (with PROPER GRADE Loctite) to correct torque.
When finished, you take several Q-tips soaked in denatured alcohol and "dab" it where the rings wrap around the scope tube.
Through capillary action, the denatured alcohol soaks in under the scope rings and re-dissolves the dried rosin liquid.
Then let it sit for a day for re-drying before sighting in/shooting.
I've never had a scope move in the rings under recoil using this method.
It's a shame it all has to come apart again for brake cleaner degreasing, Loctite, and the rosin treatment.
PXL_20251011_003555366 by
cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr
PXL_20251011_003505348 by
cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr
PXL_20251011_003430662 by
cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr
PXL_20251011_003403630 by
cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr