RUGER SFAR PROBLEM SOLVED UPDATE

[Mobuck]

"Even with H3 the two ejectors are cause bright rub marks, and sometimes raising metal burs."
Still sounds like an issue hiding in this statement. In a bolt action, smearing of ejector marks is an indicator of high pressure. In a semi-auto, this can be an indicator of early bolt rotation while pressure in the chamber is still too high.

 

[KneverKnew]

"Even with H3 the two ejectors are cause bright rub marks, and sometimes raising metal burs."
Still sounds like an issue hiding in this statement. In a bolt action, smearing of ejector marks is an indicator of high pressure. In a semi-auto, this can be an indicator of early bolt rotation while pressure in the chamber is still too high.

I agree. I think this is related to the problem of over gassing causing the system to try and unlock too soon/ bad timing. So…a new adjustable gas block hopefully will allow to slow things down.

 

[Mike 8939]

HEY ALL...I posted a while back about my problem with my SFAR...NUMEROUS FTF & EJECT AND NO LOCK BACK...thinking it just needed Ruger's "BREAK IN"
I continued to shoot it...after about 125 rounds with a superficial cleaning at 50 rounds, I thoroughly cleaned it...and removed the handguard to clean the regulator and gas block....the set screws were about to fall out and the gas block was VERY loose on the bbl...cleaned it all up and the set screws and set screw holes and loctite'd 'em in....just got back from my club range here in central texas...its VERY hot and humid today...97DEG..but the shooting positions are all covered....

Ruger has me Wondering, if they hire chimpanzees to assemble this stuff. I purchased a precision rifle from the custom shop. When it arrived, the brake was completely side ways and put on so tight. I couldn't get it off. I had to take it to a gunsmith to get it off. You would think better. Coming from their custom shop but apparently not

 

[Mobuck]

^^No excuse for an improperly 'clocked' muzzle brake.
I much prefer symmetrical muzzle brakes which don't require 'clocking'. I don't shoot prone in a sand box so nothing really beneficial with the closed bottom. It's not like a 5.56/223 needs to direct all the exhaust upward to counter recoil and I'm not at all sure the effect is worthwhile on the bigger calibers either.

 

[Carbon_Summit]

Looking for a response from @LDH or anyone else who went with the Tubb's spring.

I had a heck of a time getting the whole spring to fit in the buffer tube! I'm wondering if you guys went with the AR-25/AR-10 buffer spring or maybe an AR-15 spring? The AR-25/AR-10 is what Tubb's recommended so I went with it but I've found that the SFAR seems to be a mystery to a some retailers so who knows...

 

[Carbon_Summit]

My story for reference if it might help others to make the jump to changing the gas block:

My rifle was manufactured in 2023, went back to Ruger end of 2025 and they replaced the barrel assembly, maybe swapped out the gas regulator as well, but I don't know it for sure, just have read that was something they've been doing with other rifles. If you've sent a gun into Ruger you know the paper that comes back is pretty vague.

It came back a lot more accurate but still was overgassed. I tried to tame it down with an Odin Works adjustable buffer weight but it wasn't enough even maxed out with three tungsten weights in the heavy body version. I had a Superlative Arms AGB so I put that in the SFAR and the thing shoots great now. I had already ordered the spring so when it arrived I swapped it for the OEM spring. I can't say the spring made any difference because the gas block seems to have been the fix but still felt comfort in having a beefier spring in there over the stock one.

I found there is a company called HB Industries that makes a replacement gas regulator after I had already swapped the SA on my rifle. If you don't want to mess with removing the Ruger agb for an aftermarket one maybe swapping the regulator would be worth a try. The make some different handguards that work with the Ruger barrel nut and the factory gas block if you are interested.
I have no affiliation with that company, just glad to see someone supporting the SFAR!

https://hbindustries.net/store/product-category/ruger/ruger-sfar-products/

 

[LDH®]

Looking for a response from @LDH or anyone else who went with the Tubb's spring.

I had a heck of a time getting the whole spring to fit in the buffer tube! I'm wondering if you guys went with the AR-25/AR-10 buffer spring or maybe an AR-15 spring? The AR-25/AR-10 is what Tubb's recommended so I went with it but I've found that the SFAR seems to be a mystery to a some retailers so who knows...



View attachment 92788

I am 99.99944% sure I used an AR15 spring. When I get back to the house this afternoon I will check as I think I kept the wrapper for just this scenario and of course I can easily pull it out of the rifle as well.

 

[Mobuck]

I would suggest an adjustable gas block rather than heavier buffer or spring. A tighter gas setting may solve the early unlocking problem better than an even heavier buffer.
This is one big reason I prefer a piston drive on 'marginal' cartridge/gas port combinations. The piston's inertia helps slow initial movement and even out the cycling while providing a bit of extra weight to keep things moving once the bolt is unlocked.

 

[Carbon_Summit]

For clarification I did go with a gas block and would agree it is the answer to getting the SFAR running right. Which gas block did you go with @Mobuck ? I had the SA already, but I really like the Riflespeed one better.

Like I said above I had already ordered the spring so I still used it when it arrived and can't really say it made any difference. I ordered it because on some forum somebody measured theirs out of their rifle looking for suggestions on a replacement and we had the same coils but mine was shorter so I figured maybe mine had some wear, which at maybe 1000 rounds seemed odd but for as cheap as springs are might as well just replace it.

 

[Carbon_Summit]

When I called and talked to someone at Tubb's Springs he said they've been using the same spring that they use in the SR-25 for the SFAR.

I didn't go measure mine but Google says The Ruger SFAR uses a longer-than-standard carbine buffer tube, measuring 7 3/4" long.

Google also says SR-25 buffer tubes are typically longer than standard AR-15 carbine tubes, often around 8 inches total length, but then this below says 7.5" long for the carbine.

• SR-25 Carbine (ECC, ACC, APC, PC): These models typically use a specific, extended-length carbine receiver extension, often referred to as a "7.5-inch" tube (similar to a VLTOR A5 length). This allows for a more reliable, longer stroke compared to standard 6-position AR-15 carbine tubes.
• SR-25/M110 Rifle Length: Older or precision-focused models (like the M110) use a rifle-length buffer tube but it is crucial to use the correct .308-specific rifle buffer and spring not standard AR-15 rifle components.

I have to think the guys at Tubb's know what they are talking about but it just seemed like that spring was way too long, again it was a real pain getting it to fit in the buffer tube.

LDH: Did you call in and follow their suggestions, or did you order whichever one you have on your own?

 

[Mobuck]

I have a couple of the Superlative Arms units but prefer Adams Arms piston drive for any/all questionable gas length/gas port/extraction issues.
The adjustable gas blocks are just too twitchy for my purposes. Really like the push button change feature of the AA piston for those times when I want maximum quiet from my suppressor.

 

[Carbon_Summit]

That looks interesting.

I've got an old Ruger SR-556 so I like the idea of a piston system but that rifle is so heavy it doesn't leave the safe ever.

Google doesn't give me a clear answer about how much weight the Adams Arms set up adds to the rifle. It just says "While the specific weight varies with the rifle's base components, the added mass from the piston system's heavier carrier and gas block generally results in a noticeable increase in the rifle's overall weight, often making the front end feel heavier and contributing to a different balance and recoil impulse compared to a direct impingement (DI) system"

How much weight would you say it adds?

 

[Mobuck]

"How much weight would you say it adds?"
I'd guess 3-4 ounces tops. The gas block and tappet add some plus the weight of the solid drive rod vs almost weightless gas tube. In my case, the extra 3-4 ounces weight of the piston system is offset by using a 11–12-ounce muffler vs a 15-16 ounce.
The problem is: Adams Arms is OOB and left over units are becoming scarce and expensive. I've bid on the last 5-6 that showed up on GunBroker and all exceeded my allowance. I'm forced to search for bits, pieces, and partial kits for any future uses.

 

[LDH®]

My apologies for latency. Confirmed I used a Tubbs Flat Wire AR15 spring 17-7ph

 

[Carbon_Summit]

My apologies for latency. Confirmed I used a Tubbs Flat Wire AR15 spring 17-7ph

Did they recommend that one, or did you pick it out yourself?
I was leaning that way but they said the one I got was the right one for the SFAR.
I kinda wonder if retailers just don't really know what a SFAR really is vs an AR-10

 

[Carbon_Summit]

Adams Arms website still works but changes over to Alexandria Pro-Fab when you click to look at products. So maybe the got bought out or reorganized into a different company.

 

[seii]

For clarification I did go with a gas block and would agree it is the answer to getting the SFAR running right. Which gas block did you go with @Mobuck ? I had the SA already, but I really like the Riflespeed one better.

Like I said above I had already ordered the spring so I still used it when it arrived and can't really say it made any difference. I ordered it because on some forum somebody measured theirs out of their rifle looking for suggestions on a replacement and we had the same coils but mine was shorter so I figured maybe mine had some wear, which at maybe 1000 rounds seemed odd but for as cheap as springs are might as well just replace it.

I went with a RifleSpeed and it improved the issues I had with my SFAR. The SFAR is shooting .750 groups consistently.

 

[Carbon_Summit]

You must have a 20" barrel? Or did you change the handguard?

I have a RifleSpeed on a different rifle and its the way to go, toolless adjustments. The SA was off that rifle actually and just sitting around and and didn't require me to change the handguard so I went with it.

 

[seii]

16" barrel. I did have to go with a shorter handguard from Midwest Industries.

 

[DGW1949]

HEY ALL...I posted a while back about my problem with my SFAR...NUMEROUS FTF & EJECT AND NO LOCK BACK...thinking it just needed Ruger's "BREAK IN"
I continued to shoot it...after about 125 rounds with a superficial cleaning at 50 rounds, I thoroughly cleaned it...and removed the handguard to clean the regulator and gas block....the set screws were about to fall out and the gas block was VERY loose on the bbl...cleaned it all up and the set screws and set screw holes and loctite'd 'em in....just got back from my club range here in central texas...its VERY hot and humid today...97DEG..but the shooting positions are all covered....fired approx 75 rounds of factory hornady & winchester 150 hunting loads and my fav 150 hunting load with TAC powder...
no more FTF or Eject and rifle locks back on empty magazine..it is throwing the fired cases at 3 to 4 o'clock on
gas setting T W O....
PROBLEM SOLVED....now to write RUGER a nasty note on their exemplary quality control......
Pete in central texas

I've heard it said that Ruger's customers are it's QC department....Just going from my experience with two different NIB Ruger rifles, I don't know that I'd argue with that....Good guns after ya get 'em sorted out though. I like my two a lot.

DGW

 

[LDH®]

Did they recommend that one, or did you pick it out yourself?
I was leaning that way but they said the one I got was the right one for the SFAR.
I kinda wonder if retailers just don't really know what a SFAR really is vs an AR-10

I did my own research and made that choice on my own. I am not an armorer, but I have built more than my share of AR platform rifles in my time and what I have learned is NEVER trust a customer service rep as none of them have the experience of the workers in the field whether we are talking about Plumbing, Firearms, Guitars, Computers or whatever. They simply don't have the intimate knowledge to pass on to you.

 

[The.Tumbleweed]

For clarification I did go with a gas block and would agree it is the answer to getting the SFAR running right. Which gas block did you go with @Mobuck ? I had the SA already, but I really like the Riflespeed one better.

Like I said above I had already ordered the spring so I still used it when it arrived and can't really say it made any difference. I ordered it because on some forum somebody measured theirs out of their rifle looking for suggestions on a replacement and we had the same coils but mine was shorter so I figured maybe mine had some wear, which at maybe 1000 rounds seemed odd but for as cheap as springs are might as well just replace it.

I went a different route.
I ONLY used what came with the rifle. It had issues, of course, but I looked for things that didn't involve buying extra stuff, or having the rifle sent back.
Ruger says to get 200 rounds break-in.
Tough, I know, but that is the trick.

I looked at the ammo, measured, gauged, even hand loads.
Took it all the way down, cleaned every piece of the action, lubed everything, and put it back together.
Once it got past the ammo issues, it works fine. MOA at the range. No more FTF, or FTE.
For my money, buying a bunch of stuff is just chasing your tail.
It's designed to work with what it comes with.