Ruger Old Army Question?
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cagedodger
Bearcat
I don't know of a way to keep the three pieces together when removing the cylinder. You just have to get them in the proper relationship when reassembling.
To me, it seems too much of a hassle to remove the cylinder when reloading.
I made a reloading stand for the revolver that works pretty well.
Here are some pics to give you an idea.
The 2 measurements illustrated above are critical to achieve a good fit. You can adjust a bit by shaving a little off the stand-up piece if it's too tall (distance #2) and sliding the stand-up piece along the base (distance #1).
I had to carve out the grip butt pocket by hand. Also a little hand fitting to clear the hammer.
It looks wobbly, but is actually quite stable on a firm level surface.
Cage 8)
To me, it seems too much of a hassle to remove the cylinder when reloading.
I made a reloading stand for the revolver that works pretty well.
Here are some pics to give you an idea.
The 2 measurements illustrated above are critical to achieve a good fit. You can adjust a bit by shaving a little off the stand-up piece if it's too tall (distance #2) and sliding the stand-up piece along the base (distance #1).
I had to carve out the grip butt pocket by hand. Also a little hand fitting to clear the hammer.
It looks wobbly, but is actually quite stable on a firm level surface.
Cage 8)
contender
Ruger Guru
As always,, this place has some excellent suggestions and neat ideas for dealing with Rugers.
Great looking stands y'all!
Great looking stands y'all!
lovesrugers
Bearcat
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Messages
- 69
Well I don't know of any way to really keep the parts together when I remove the cylinder on my 7.5" Old Army. What I do when putting the cylinder back in is to first attach the lever to the base pin and then insert the assembly about half way into the frame and cylinder. From there I install the ram rod part and fully seat the assembly.
Now the question is why remove the cylinder to use a loader of some type that has been demonstrated in this thread? Yes there are very nice stands that work great for holding the revolver and seating standard bullets that fit in the opening provided by the Old Army. However what happens when you want to use a heavier/longer bullet that won't fit in the frame opening? At that point you need to use a separate bullet seater.
Here is a youtube video I made just the other day showing some pictures of the cylinder loader I use and me firing off some heavy bullets in my Old Army.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQVu3d3NpxU
Or in Hd if you prefer:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQVu3d3NpxU&hd=1
Jerry
Now the question is why remove the cylinder to use a loader of some type that has been demonstrated in this thread? Yes there are very nice stands that work great for holding the revolver and seating standard bullets that fit in the opening provided by the Old Army. However what happens when you want to use a heavier/longer bullet that won't fit in the frame opening? At that point you need to use a separate bullet seater.
Here is a youtube video I made just the other day showing some pictures of the cylinder loader I use and me firing off some heavy bullets in my Old Army.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQVu3d3NpxU
Or in Hd if you prefer:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQVu3d3NpxU&hd=1
Jerry
Quarterbore
Blackhawk
I need to make a stand too... thanks for sharing the pattern & ideas!
daveinvegas
Bearcat
Here's my loading stand:
This one is a prototype made with pine.
I have made similar stands from oak that has a clip to support the barrel. I did away with the clip on this one.
Here's one in oak.
This one is a prototype made with pine.
I have made similar stands from oak that has a clip to support the barrel. I did away with the clip on this one.
Here's one in oak.
rugerfan100
Single-Sixer
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2010
- Messages
- 420
daveinvegas
Bearcat
Mike S said:
Sorry, I no longer have the layout; lost it when hard drive crashed. If I can find some time I'll see if I can draw up the plans again.
cagedodger
Bearcat
Mike S said:
Do what I did.
Get out your Old Army, a ruler, pencil and paper. Maybe an architectural calculator if you're not good with fractions.
See what you can come up with.
I like seeing all the slightly different ways used to accomplish the same goal.
Cage 8)
I made mine without any drawn plans. Just an image in my head.
Making the vertical rack took a little measuring here and there; but cut small and trim out to fit. Tools I used to build mine were a jigsaw, drill, hole saw bit, forstner bit (for ammo tray) and a sander.
If you're making a loader like the ones that DaveInVegas has made, then a speed square would come in handy. If you start with your base piece, you can hold your revolver on it so that its barrel sits at a 90 degree angle to the base. Place the speed square against the top line of the revolver and make a mark at the base of the speed square on the wood. Then make a mark on the wood at the bottom of the grip frame. At this point you would have your wood base piece with two marks on it. One for the butt of the revolver pocket and the other for the backplane of the loader. Square the marks off to the wood base with your speed square and build the buttstop piece and backplane of the loader.
Making the vertical rack took a little measuring here and there; but cut small and trim out to fit. Tools I used to build mine were a jigsaw, drill, hole saw bit, forstner bit (for ammo tray) and a sander.
If you're making a loader like the ones that DaveInVegas has made, then a speed square would come in handy. If you start with your base piece, you can hold your revolver on it so that its barrel sits at a 90 degree angle to the base. Place the speed square against the top line of the revolver and make a mark at the base of the speed square on the wood. Then make a mark on the wood at the bottom of the grip frame. At this point you would have your wood base piece with two marks on it. One for the butt of the revolver pocket and the other for the backplane of the loader. Square the marks off to the wood base with your speed square and build the buttstop piece and backplane of the loader.
Coop
Blackhawk
I've been shooting C&B revolvers, including a pair of 5-1/2" SS ROAs, for ten years now up thru 2009 in CAS matches around the USA. That equates to thousands of C&B shots fired.
I have never, ever, used any kind of reloading base/block structure, whatever, when reloading my revolvers/cylinders. When reloading my C&B revolvers, I load the blackpowder into each chamber, then I push a Wonder Wad into each chamber, and then place a lead ball onto the top of each chamber and operate the ball rammer chambering the ball while holding the grip frame against my tummy.
For me that is the easiest way to reload a Cap & Ball revolver.
Coop
I have never, ever, used any kind of reloading base/block structure, whatever, when reloading my revolvers/cylinders. When reloading my C&B revolvers, I load the blackpowder into each chamber, then I push a Wonder Wad into each chamber, and then place a lead ball onto the top of each chamber and operate the ball rammer chambering the ball while holding the grip frame against my tummy.
For me that is the easiest way to reload a Cap & Ball revolver.
Coop
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