1245delta
Bearcat
Did Ruger ever issue a Blackhawk .357 with cherry or redwood grips?
Ruger grips
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contender
Ruger Guru
I think the ones that look very reddish are rosewood, or rosewood laminates.
protoolman
Service-Sixer
As a serious woodworker I can tell you rosewood is many different woods called rosewood. But to answer your question - maybe? I don't think any normal models were made with anything other than walnut or whatever the newer models is. Cherry or redwood would have to have been added on distributor special models. I doubt any gripmaker ever used redwood though, too soft and not enough contrast. Maple would have been a better possibility. Cherry maybe also?
I have 2 pairs of XR3-RED "rosewood laminate" grips. One is new in the package and really light colored. The other came off a Blackhawk that I purchased used, it is very dark and has the new "old style" medallions. I'm about to list a bunch of my spare stuff. Here's a pic of these-
This picture appears pretty true to the actual color.
I'll have to try and get a different pic in daylight on these. They sorta look different depending on how the light hits them.
I've also got a set of Chigs Mango that I might let go of. But they are more of an iridescent grey.
This picture appears pretty true to the actual color.
I'll have to try and get a different pic in daylight on these. They sorta look different depending on how the light hits them.
I've also got a set of Chigs Mango that I might let go of. But they are more of an iridescent grey.
Star43
Blackhawk
I like the top ones. I tried ordering them twice as I liked the color. They just don't fit though. I am not writing this to complain. I'm actually sad as they didn't work out. I called Ruger when ordering them and told them the guns I was ordering for, but they just don't fit. I actually put them back in the package..... same package you show above. Glad yours worked for you though....
I'm really fond of the Ruger laminated grips on my Blackhawks. They can be snugged down tight without cracking and resist changes due to handling with my sweaty and salty mitts.
It gets expensive replacing the more fashionable replaced grips I get on a used revolver but they're worth it to me. Heresy I know but even a set of Chigs grips were replaced with Ruger laminates.
It gets expensive replacing the more fashionable replaced grips I get on a used revolver but they're worth it to me. Heresy I know but even a set of Chigs grips were replaced with Ruger laminates.
contender
Ruger Guru
"They can be snugged down tight without cracking"
I'd buy another Ruger if I had a quarter for every internal busted grip panel I have found because people OVERTIGHTEN grip screws. Tighten them too much and they pull the ferrule through the backside.
EASY FIX!!!!!
To prevent this,, go to a hardware store. Buy some plastic "spacers" or "sleeves" that are 1/2" long, and have a hole diameter just big enough to go over the screw shaft. Then, take a hand file,, and hone off about .005 of the plastic. Grip frames are most often just under 1/2" wide.
Remove the grips, then place the plastic spacer in-between the 2 grip panels, over the screw. It'll allow proper grip tightening, AND not allow over tightening things.
Cary Chapman,, who has made some of the nicest custom grips around,, included a spacer with all his grips. He used aluminum ones.
I've been doing this to all my Ruger SA's for over 20 years.
NO BUSTED grips from the inside.
I'd buy another Ruger if I had a quarter for every internal busted grip panel I have found because people OVERTIGHTEN grip screws. Tighten them too much and they pull the ferrule through the backside.
EASY FIX!!!!!
To prevent this,, go to a hardware store. Buy some plastic "spacers" or "sleeves" that are 1/2" long, and have a hole diameter just big enough to go over the screw shaft. Then, take a hand file,, and hone off about .005 of the plastic. Grip frames are most often just under 1/2" wide.
Remove the grips, then place the plastic spacer in-between the 2 grip panels, over the screw. It'll allow proper grip tightening, AND not allow over tightening things.
Cary Chapman,, who has made some of the nicest custom grips around,, included a spacer with all his grips. He used aluminum ones.
I've been doing this to all my Ruger SA's for over 20 years.
NO BUSTED grips from the inside.
Star43
Blackhawk
Yeah, I have done that Twice. That's why I bought the other new grips from Ruger, which didn't fit right at all, which was depressing. I still have those new grips and they are pretty. They are each slightly different. On 1 of the guns, it's not so bad, but I still don't want to use them, an on the other Single Six, it was really off. What I ended up doing was using carpenters glue and they are on, but I don't dare tighten them too much now. I am trying to visualize this spacer piece, but still not clear on it. Obviously it works if you haven't had a problem in 20 years.
Yup, SNUG them down no trips to the HW store required.
contender
Ruger Guru
I'll get a picture or two with the spacer I'm talking about.
Ok, here's a couple of pictures. One, shows a spacer with the grip screw inside it. The other shows the placement inside the grip frame. NOTICE THE CRACKED WOOD INSIDE THE GRIP PANEL. This is from overtightening by a previous owner.
Ok, here's a couple of pictures. One, shows a spacer with the grip screw inside it. The other shows the placement inside the grip frame. NOTICE THE CRACKED WOOD INSIDE THE GRIP PANEL. This is from overtightening by a previous owner.
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Star43
Blackhawk
Thanks,. Are these spacers available at a regular Home Depot ? What would the average guy ask the clerk for in trying to locate them ? In other words what would we call them or try to describe them? Last time I personally went to a Home Depot, the guy was, to be polite, not the brightest bulb...I did notice another guy posted used a Nice plastic pen. What do you think of that? I mean, if it works, it works, right ? Thanks for the photos I can see how this would work. 
Star43
Blackhawk
That is a good idea and I will bring in my phone to show him Contender's photos. That would be good to show him what I want to do....
contender
Ruger Guru
I know that 3 of the hardware stores I visit all carry these spacers. Ask for the 1/2" length. You will find some with a hole ID bigger or just right. Either one will work.
Star43
Blackhawk
Sounds good and I will bring the screw with me. Thanks........I hope other guys see this as I can't be the only idiot to overtighten things.....
Star43
Blackhawk
Just for the heck of it I was looking at my first Ruger revolver I bought new today. A Single Six made in 1986. It was one of the House or Arrow guns. The gun still looks beautiful but I noticed the screw was almost even with the grip panel. I tested it with a screwdriver and it was tight and secure, but I thought that screw should be more inside the grip panel. I removed the grips and sure enough, the grip panel looked just like Contender's photo showing the cracked panel. The ferrule is still inside the panel thank goodness. I already had a problem with 2 other guns that I glued. I will be picking up at least 3 or 4 of these spacers. I cannot be the only guy with this problem occurring, so I would think other guys should check if their grip screws are too close to the edge of the out side of the grip panel. That is not a good sign as that ferrule is starting to come through......
contender
Ruger Guru
Told ya!
Ok, to kinda repair that cracked panel a bit.
First,, you have to pull the ferrule out. Next,, pad the exterior part of the grip, and using a small bird feather,, (glue applicator,) first apply good wood glue to the cracked area. You may need to GENTLY open the crack a bit to get glue inside the crack. (I clamp the panel in a padded vise & using a stiff, but thin knife blade,) Apply glue,, then while it's not set,, I take an oversized punch & gently tap the pushed out part back in place,, as much as I can, then I place masking tape over the glued area. I then apply a squeezable clamp between the exterior padding, and the tape to push the wood back down as much as I can. Leave it clamped until dry.
It may not fully seat the wood but it'll help.
Once dry,, replace the ferrule,, with another small drop of glue. (Keep it out of the threads.) Let dry. Then you can screw it back together,, with a spacer in between.
Ok, to kinda repair that cracked panel a bit.
First,, you have to pull the ferrule out. Next,, pad the exterior part of the grip, and using a small bird feather,, (glue applicator,) first apply good wood glue to the cracked area. You may need to GENTLY open the crack a bit to get glue inside the crack. (I clamp the panel in a padded vise & using a stiff, but thin knife blade,) Apply glue,, then while it's not set,, I take an oversized punch & gently tap the pushed out part back in place,, as much as I can, then I place masking tape over the glued area. I then apply a squeezable clamp between the exterior padding, and the tape to push the wood back down as much as I can. Leave it clamped until dry.
It may not fully seat the wood but it'll help.
Once dry,, replace the ferrule,, with another small drop of glue. (Keep it out of the threads.) Let dry. Then you can screw it back together,, with a spacer in between.
Star43
Blackhawk
Well, after I wrote that yesterday, I was looking at the grip, & as I mentioned, the panel was cracked but the ferrule was still inside the grip. I put the glue all around the cracked area as smoothly and neatly as possible and put a squeeze clamp on the grip to try to hold and press that wood back in to be as even as possible to the grip side wall. I looked at it this morning and it looks pretty good. I was hoping that and using the spacer would work out ok? Well, since it's already glued, I will try it out that way for now I guess. Thanks for the reply. I do appreciate it.....
Star43
Blackhawk
"Ace is the Place for the Helpful Hardware Maan" Just left there with my spacers. I brought my grips and the screw & my phone with the photo from Contender....The old statement about a picture being worth a thousand words rang true. I even bought a sheet of fine black sand paper to bring it down a bit.....I think you said it needs a little to take off...about a 16th of an inch or less? Anyway got that and bought 5 spacers for 30 cents each. Between that an the sandpaper, it's just a little over a $2 fix !!! I bought a couple extra in case I screw up and sand too much off !!
