Ruger #1 misfires

[rcr]

Any thoughts on what could be causing this?

I have a 22-250. I bought is used and the first time I went to shoot it it misfired 13 of 20. I was using handloads so I thought ammo problem. All of the primers were dented (fired and misfired).

I took it apart, put a new hammer spring in, bought some Remington ammo and same thing.

The only thing I can figure is a headspace issue. The firing pin doesn't protrude out that much, are there longer firing pins out there?

I'd appreciate any help.

Rick rooney

 

[Pinecone]

rcr, Welcome to the forum! Have you taken the breech block apart? If not, I would first check to make sure the firing pin is traveling "freely" in its tunnel and it's "spring" is freely and firmly returning the firing pin. Protrusion should be approx. .045 to .053. Another very important point is the "hammer transfer block". The concave area should be pointing toward the "rear" when installed "properly". If it's installed "backwards", this could cause your problem of missfires. How "deep" are the primer indentations? Any difference between the cartridges that fired and the ones that did'nt? Is the hammer strut/spring installed properly and free to move without excessive friction? Just a few things to check first. Unless extremely "hot" loads were fired in your rifle and a "lot" of them, I doubt you have excessive headspace but that would be something to check if the other things check out...............................Dick :wink:

 

[rcr]

Thanks Pinecone.

I've looked at everything you mentioned. I guess I didn't look closely to see if the hammer spring/strut assembly was rubbing on anything.

I can't imagine it is a headspace phenomena. That seems so unlikely...but I guess it could be.

I'll look at it again.

Rick

 

[gewehrfreund]

If this has not been altered in any way, I would gurantee that Ruger did not let it leave the factory with any sort of headspace issue.
The hammer might be binding, but this is not too likely. One possibility is if this has a threee-screw adjustable trigger, the sear engaement and/or overtravel screw may be set so the trigger is dragging on the hammer when it fires.
The most likely problem is that the firing pin is not protruding far enough for consistent ignition as a result of dirt or some foreign particle between the breechblock and firing pin flange face, or the reasons that pinecone mentioned. Have you had the FP out and cleaned out the recess? Good luck and welcome to the forum.
LC

 

[rcr]

gewehrfreund, yep, everything out and cleaned. I paid particular attention to the firing pin and its hole in the breechblock.

It seems that something has to be binding but I don't know how to tell.

I'm not familiar enough with the triggers to know the difference. Would you mind explaining how I check the sear engagement and overtravel?

Thanks
Rick

 

[gewehrfreund]

Hmmmm, this is a head scratcher.
On the older (3 screw) triggers, there is a sear engagement screw up inside the action that is only accessible by taking the buttstock off. All of the factory triggers have the the front spring tension screw and rear overtravel stop screw which are in the face of the trigger and visible/accessible without removing the stock.
the older Ruger manuels explained how to adjust the triggers, but now Ruger (liability lawyers) doesn't want anyone but the factory to touch the triggers.