Rimfire Cleaning

Montelores

Buckeye
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Messages
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An interesting read - I hope this is helpful.

Monty

http://www.rrdvegas.com/rimfire-cleaning.html
 
Even the author recognizes that it's a big bite to chew.

If you are going to skip around, I ask that you read this first section below, and then skip around as you desire.

Anyway, I hope that it's helpful for the RF.

Monty
 
I did a certain amount of detailed testing on this topic a couple years ago. My conclusions:

1. SOME gun/ammo combinations like to be clean. (Talking about the bore here.)

2. SOME gun/ammo combinations shoot better if they're a bit dirty, and then shoot well for a while (which might be several hundred to several thousand rounds), and then accuracy begins to deteriorate until they're cleaned, starting the cycle again.

3. SOME gun/ammo combinations definitely prefer to be dirty. After cleaning, accuracy will improve after a while, eventually reaching a peak after a few hundred rounds, and once this point is reached, the gun can be shot "dirty" virtually indefinitely with no deterioration in accuracy.

When I "published" my findings on Rimfirecentral, I had to add a fourth and fifth conclusion to the above:

4. Some shooters just have to clean their guns, even if it degrades accuracy and causes extra wear on the gun itself. :shock:

5. Very, very few shooters are willing to do the testing/work to find out what their guns really like. :wink:

At any rate, I now know which of MY guns likes to be cleaned, and which ones like to be left dirty. :wink:
 
Some bores just resist cleaning too! ;) Notably (in my experience) the Browning Buck Mark! That pistol HATES to get clean. Spend 4 hours cleaning it, fire two magazines through it and it's dirty again in the same damned spots. I've come to the conclusion that it likes being 'leaded up'! ;)
 
Rugerhound, I think your right about the Buckmark. I have one. Same story.

Monte: that is a good read. Thanks for the link. Like some of the others, i bookmarked it for later also. But something like that is for reference anyway.
 
Hi,

The borescope photography is interesting, and the gentleman has a VERY nice collection of wooden tool chests! Thanks to Monty for posting this article even if only for those reasons!

However, I could only make it half way thru the first part, at which point I was in 100% agreement with the author's own comment, "At this point, I think I have pretty well beaten this topic to death." Discussions of rimfire cleaning have a tendency to quickly take on the appearance of the water around a fishing boat right after a deckhand tosses a couple of buckets of bloody chum to the sharks! Everybody's got their own way to go about the process, and the mfrs cater to them quite well by offering endless varieties of equipment and chemicals to help out. Bless 'em all... they help keep the world from becoming boring!

Rick C
 
How do you eat an elephant?

One bite at a time!


I'll admit that the author wasn't able to penetrate a few of my prejudices (e.g., drawing the bore brush back through the muzzle when cleaning from the breech), but that's a harmless, time-wasting idiosyncrasy of mine, I guess), but, what I really found interesting was the background information - the abrasive silica included in r.f. priming material, gravity causing fouling to settle in the 6 o'clock position in the bore, the purpose of the "relief" on a cleaning jag (I'd never thought about that), and the effectiveness of "pull-through" type systems (I use a "Patch-Worm" for a quick swab of the bore and to coat w/ oil or Ballistol).


Anyway, maybe the .22 LR shortage is abating, so that wearing out a .22 through shooting will become an actual possibility.

Monty
 
Thanks a lot for posting this, this is the second time I have read about using nylon brushes instead of brass ones, going to buy me a gob of nylon ones the next time I put in an order to Brownells.
 
Whatever happened to Outers' electrolytic cleaning system? The "Foul Out" simpy gets a bore cleaner than ANY mechanical (brush/patch) method, period.
Simple Physics.
I used mine until the dog chewed it up. It got every barrel I owned mirror-bright. Rimfire, shotgun, rifle, copper and lead simply go away. This is the 21st century friends. Clean your guns like George Jetson!
 
Bull. I run a dry patch thru the bore to clean out unburned powder and wipe down the outside with a oiled rag to stop rust. Occasionally take a toothbrush to the bolt. That's it. I ain't gonna eat supper off 'em and ain't no DI gonna inspect it. Been doing it this way for 40 years and my .22s and other guns shoot just fine.
 
chuck said:
Thanks a lot for posting this, this is the second time I have read about using nylon brushes instead of brass ones, going to buy me a gob of nylon ones the next time I put in an order to Brownells.
Even the mild steel used in most .22 (and airgun and shotgun) barrels is way harder than the brass or bronze bristles in cleaning brushes. Which means you can't hurt a barrel with them. My favorite bore cleaning tool is a new USGI M16/M4 5.56 bronze bore brush (ask for it by name!) One of these babies will scrub EVERYTHING out of a .22 rimfire bore in two passes--usually, in just one! :shock:

And, after a bit of use, the brush will get "looser" in the bore, and need to be replaced, proving that the barrel steel is wearing down the bronze bristles, not the other way around! :wink:
 
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