resource for making grip panels

schloss

Single-Sixer
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Feb 27, 2010
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360
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Soldotna AK
I need to make some grips for my Blackhawk. I've been trying to find some resources o. it, but coming up dry. I've got about 25 years of woodworking experience, but just looking for the little tricks and things to watch out for, etc.

Can anybody point me in the right direction?
 
Here is one thread that might help you. I've heard lots of people talk about their 20 some years of wood working experience but building a desk or coffee table really has nothing to do with being able to make a set of grips. Some people can do it and some can't. It's more like sculpting than working with flat wood boards.

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=149913&highlight=
 
Thanks for the link and the discouragement, caryc. I was initially going to just trace out the grips I have, being that they fit so nicely, but I may try the plexi trick instead. I know what you're saying about people not being able to transition between cabinetry or furniture building and carving. I ran into a lot of that with my students when I was teaching industrial arts.

So, I may or may not get this project rolling, and I see Ruger has wood grips for under $40. Still, I have a few thousand board feet of cherry that I cut and milled about a year and a half ago that needs some use, and what I've tested from the pile has been very lovely. The wife will be heading out with both of the boys in a few weeks, so it might happen.
 
Do not get discouraged. Many of us make our own grips. HOWEVER, as caryc pointed out, grip making is definately different than cabinetry. I do not want to try making cabinets, yet I do make my own grips.
Caryc makes some of the finest grips around, bar none, so he speaks with knowledge.
My first few attempts were less than stellar, but I did learn how.
Have a go at it, but remember,, you can always scrap a pair & start new. Just learn on cheaper wood before going to exotic, expensive types.
 
schloss said:
Thanks for the link and the discouragement, caryc. I was initially going to just trace out the grips I have, being that they fit so nicely, but I may try the plexi trick instead. I know what you're saying about people not being able to transition between cabinetry or furniture building and carving. I ran into a lot of that with my students when I was teaching industrial arts.

So, I may or may not get this project rolling, and I see Ruger has wood grips for under $40. Still, I have a few thousand board feet of cherry that I cut and milled about a year and a half ago that needs some use, and what I've tested from the pile has been very lovely. The wife will be heading out with both of the boys in a few weeks, so it might happen.

Thanks for the discouragement??? What, you think I'm worried about you becoming competition with me? I gave you some hints to try to help you, if you think you know better than me then go for it. Why ask for advice if your going to get snotty about it? I didn't say anything that wasn't the truth. That's the last time I try to help anyone with grip making.
 
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Tracing your grips will get you in the ballpark, but it will not help with drilling to line up the locating pin holes...Mkaing a template like CaryC suggests is a good route if you intend to keep making more grips...

I tap the roll pin flush with one side of the grip, tape the shaped grip to that side so it won't move, and drill through the roll pin as a guide...I then flip, tap the pin flush the other direction and repeat...

Then take the grips to the drill press using the pilot holes to drill the full size holes for the locator pin OD...

Rough shape is cut using a table jig or small band saw...

Most of my shaping after initial rough cut is done with 3 different size spindles on my spindle sander...

Take away all the stuff that doesn't look like agrip :lol:

http://i43.tinypic.com/5frwk8.jpg
 
Cary does this for profit and has given good advice. I at one time was a joiner (built custom cabinets for yachts) and can tell you grips and cabinets are night and day from each other, I make grips using nothing but hand tools, mostly good carving knives, a coping saw and sandpaper. I am working on a set now for one of my Bearcats using poplar. I have a BIG hunk of holly but haven't had it cut in strips yet. That will be another 'project'.
 
caryc said:
schloss said:
Thanks for the link and the discouragement, caryc. I was initially going to just trace out the grips I have, being that they fit so nicely, but I may try the plexi trick instead. I know what you're saying about people not being able to transition between cabinetry or furniture building and carving. I ran into a lot of that with my students when I was teaching industrial arts.

So, I may or may not get this project rolling, and I see Ruger has wood grips for under $40. Still, I have a few thousand board feet of cherry that I cut and milled about a year and a half ago that needs some use, and what I've tested from the pile has been very lovely. The wife will be heading out with both of the boys in a few weeks, so it might happen.

Thanks for the discouragement??? What, you think I'm worried about you becoming competition with me? I gave you some hints to try to help you, if you think you know better than me then go for it. Why ask for advice if your going to get snotty about it? I didn't say anything that wasn't the truth. That's the last time I try to help anyone with grip making.

It's called sarcasm, caryc. I acknowledged that I would be taking your advice and going for it. I never said I knew better than you, but would be using your method instead, if I could get the time to get rolling on it.
 
I just recently completed my 1st attempt in making grips:

41MagBlackhawk-2.jpg


I'm also an experienced woodworker, and I found that the main skill that carried over was wood finishing, and the ability to use the tools, all else was a learning experience.

The way I went about it was to completely drive out the locating roll pin from the grip frame.

Then after determining the corner of each blank that I wanted to use to butt up against the edge of the grip and cylinder frames, I made sure it measured absolutely square, I made the relief cut for the angled ears and positioned the blank onto the grip frame, clamped it in place with an Irwin non marring composite spring clamp.

I used the locating pin hole in the grip frame as a drill bit guide to drill the locating hole on the backside of the blank with my drill press. Then I did the same thing for the opposite side blank.

I reinstalled the locating pin in the grip frame, mounted each grip blank one at a time and traced the frame outline on the back of the blanks and rough cut them to shape on a bandsaw, leaving extra for shaping.

I removed the grip frame, wrapped it with a layer of masking tape, mounted both blanks with double sided tape and went to town with my Jet spindle sander and did about 90% of the shaping, followed with wood files and sandpaper.

The finish is Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. The wood is figured Claro Walnut I bought from www.woodworkerssource.com.
 
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