I didn't watch the whole video, just wanted to see some of the Cerakoting. It looks to me that it was done with stencils because of the pattern. I don't think the average Cerakoter would be that good free hand to get what was done on that rifle (the sharp edges, splatter, etc.). That said, there are a multitude of different stencils for Cerakoting just about any pattern you can think of and you can also buy stencil material that can be cut to suit any design you might be able to imagine.
Now, as for the scope - I do Cerakoting in my business but I will not Cerakote a scope that is already built. There are just too many ways that scope can be harmed during prep and during the coating and curing. During prep, typically you use an abrasive blasting material (I use 120 grit aluminum oxide) to etch (rough up) the surface so the Cerakote adheres correctly. What you don't want etched has to be completely protected from the blast material. To protect the glass, you would have to cap the lenses but then you will have a black ring at the front and the back of the scope. Then you have to decide if you want the adjustment caps coated or not. If coated, you then that to remark the settings marks. You also have to make sure that no blast material gets into the adjustment mechanisms and into the internals of the scope.
After Cerakoting, or during a stencil Cerakote, it has to be cured. This varies depending on the material being coated but on the average you cure at 250 degrees for 2 hours (or if using stenciles each color 15 min at 180 and then a finish curing. I don't want to take a chance of messing up someones expensive scope so I just won't Cerakote a scope. If you see a Cerakoted scope it was probably done by the manufacturer as the scope was being built. Cerakote the body, Cerakore the adjustment caps and then put the markings on, then put the internals in and finish building the scope. That way the internals and such are not subject to any unusual outside infulences.
Just my thoughts
