How to remove Cerakote finish.

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CHEVYINLINE6

Single-Sixer
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Nov 29, 2022
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I recently bought a MK 2 steel grip frame that has a Cerakote finish. I to re-blue it. I no longer have access to a bead blaster. Any other way to do ir ? Also what is a good brand of cold blue to use ? I have several of Brownells products, but haven't tried them yet.

CHEVYINLINE6.
 
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Joined
Dec 8, 2005
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Lemont, PA, USA 16851
The only way you will remove the Cerakote is to use an abrasive blast material. When I Cerakote I use 120 grit aluminum oxide. Once the coating is removed you will then need to polish the metal and completely remove any and all petroleum products that may still be on the metal.

BTW, a "bead" blaster will not remove the Cerakote, it has to be removed by a more aggressive material.
 
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I've used Oxpho Blue from Brownells several times. To get decent looking results you would be better spending the money on hot bluing or parkerizing. Parkerizing is a durable finish that you can do with a few dollars worth of chemicals and a stainless pot from the thrift store. Sand blast the old finish then completely disassemble and degrease the gun. No polishing needed. Suspend the parts in hot solution for the prescribed time, rinse and oil. You will have a very unique revolver because only a handful of military revolvers we're parked. You can get a $15 top hopper blaster from Harbor Freight.
 

CHEVYINLINE6

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 29, 2022
Messages
401
Location
Vancouver Washington
I've used Oxpho Blue from Brownells several times. To get decent looking results you would be better spending the money on hot bluing or parkerizing. Parkerizing is a durable finish that you can do with a few dollars worth of chemicals and a stainless pot from the thrift store. Sand blast the old finish then completely disassemble and degrease the gun. No polishing needed. Suspend the parts in hot solution for the prescribed time, rinse and oil. You will have a very unique revolver because only a handful of military revolvers we're parked. You can get a $15 top hopper blaster from Harbor Freight.
Thank you.
 
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you get the grip frame stripped and you can take that ONE part to about any gunshop that does rebluing, or even use a shop that does 'black oxide' we do many times and wears better and will match pretty good NO cold blue is durable or will last, unless maybe you "rust blue" it, but gotta do the top ( barreled receiver) and the bottom to match properly...........I know we've done HUNDREDS of them over the years in the three gun shops we've owned since the early 1970s............:cool::rolleyes:;)
 

Carry_Up

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Dec 22, 2007
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376
Location
Dallas, TX
My opinion on the new baked-on finishes is that they do not belong on any firearm that is built to close tolerances. One claim is that the product will slick up the action and act like oil between the parts. The opposite is true. The paints are tough, but not hard. Parts will tend to stick together rather than slide. Perfect for an AR or any rattly firearm. No chemical will remove this stuff. Professional shops don't tell you that they have to sand blast the parts before painting, thus changing any critical dimensions on the gun. We are told that the paint thickness is incredibly tiny, but that is also not true. 1 to 2 thousandths on one surface adds up to as much as 4 thousandths between the two, which can be unacceptable on custom firearms. Complete removal of the product requires sandblasting that once again removes more metal, then the resulting rough surface must be re-finished. Good for some things, probably not a good choice for a 1911.
 
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