removing light rust

[boomer92266]

on my service six i have light specks of rust on the gun, i can't afford a hot blue and i don't do cold blue well and wouldn't want to cold blue as it don't last for me. the blueing is good on the gun, just the specks of rust are on it but they are stuborn. they aren't all over it in patches just tiny pin head size specks on the frame and cylinder here and there. i have fritz metal polish and wonder about it. now i have one more question, if i keep it cleaned and oiled will it get worse? it will be my woods gun so as long as it wouldn't get worse i'm fine with it. but if it would i want to stop it if i can. thanks for any help

 

[Ale-8(1)]

I've had pretty good luck using very fine 0000 steel wool with a liberal helping of oil and a very, very gentle application.

Very gentle.

As long as you wipe it down with a lightly-oily rag occasionally, it shouldn't get worse.

JMHO

 

[GP100man]

I use ATF & 0000 steel wool with very lite hand.

 

[Snake45]

Another vote for 0000 or 00000 steel wool and oil.

I would NOT use Flitz on it. I think it can take bluing off (it's a very fine abrasive). It's good on bare steel or stainless, though.

The reason steel wool works is, it's harder than rust, but not as hard as pristine blued steel.

 

[frank n texas]

Jeweler's rouge or pencil eraser...very gently?

 

[Montelores]

There's also a type of steel wool which resembles linguini - flat strands of steel wool.

Here it is:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/metal-wool/stainless-steel-sponge-prod21175.aspx

The explanation I've had about this product is that the "flats" scrape the rust off the flat surfaces of the gun without abrading the bluing.

It has worked well for me.

I did soak the rust spots with gun oil for a period of time before using the steel wool.

Oh - be very gentle on any edges of the gun (with either type of steel wool).

In my experience, that's where the bluing will come off quite easily.

And gentle is the operative word for the entire process.

Monty

P.S. Here a Brownell's video about this topic which I found:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=10990

 

[eveled]

I recommend against using steel wool. I use a flattened rifle cartridge as a scraper, to "knock off" the rust spots then use an oily rag. keep it oiled and the rust will stay away.

The important thing to realize is the rust itself is very abrasive so you want to scrape it off dry so that it falls away. You don't want to rub it in with a rag.

 

[Dantforth]

I use a product called "Blue Wonder" for any surface rust. It is also available as "RB17" at gun shops and through gunsmiths. Spread it on and then give a good rub with the finest steel wool. This removes rust but will not touch bluing. It is also biodegradable and has no harmful chemicals. Just keep it well oiled after every use and the rust will not come back. I have used this for many years on antique military firearms with great success. Why fool with other more invasive methods?Dave

 

[powder smoke]

0000 Steel wool, Gently!. ps

 

[HAWKEYE#28]

TRY A "TRUE" COPPER PENNY(FOR ME THAT IS PRE-64), RUB OVER THE BLOOM AND WIPE OFF WITH OILED CLOTH. IT SEEMS TO FILL THAT MINUTE VOID SOURCE OF RUST AND DOES NOT ALLOW RE-BLOOM...........

 

[Epoch]

I've had great luck using HAWKEYE#28's method. Copper penny and oiled cloth. In my experience, it leaves behind some white spots since the bluing is gone from the rust, but no further rust occurs. And, most importantly, no damage to the surrounding bluing.

Chad

 

[rugerguy]

we too have done what 'Splitz' said, using the edge of a REAL copper penny ,and yes have used 0000 steel wool or if you can find it, at the Ace, 'Bronze' wool is even more forgiving.......gotta get at that "spec" of rust, and knock that "crust " ( or as Splitz stated , "the bloom"...) keep the surface oiled or we like to use 'RIG" (rust inhibiting grease)
any and ALL 'cold blues" are only temporary and do NOT replace 'hot bluing' but can be used to blend in some of the spot, this is usually a hit or miss (works or doesn't) gotta try different ones as some can ruin the surrounding area, say on the middle of the side plate or below the cylinder release latch on a double action revolver...............we have tried and used them ALL over the years, and always go back to the 44-40 formula from Gun Parts ( Numrich Arms) West Hurley,NY............everyone has their OWN 'favorite' :wink:

 

[WESHOOT2]

Since using conventional steel wool (of any size) WILL embed deposits of said RUSTABLE material (right back on the thing you're trying to de-rust), might I instead suggest using STAINLESS STEEL wool, available from folks like Brownells?

 

[Terry T]

For light rust, no deep pitting, I use aluminum foil and light oil. The aluminum is softer than the blueing but harder than the rust. I cleaned up a nice old Colt Police Positive Special with this technique and it worked great. Takes a little time and one has to keep wiping the excess away.
I was surprised how well it worked with no damage to the blueing. Got this from an old timer.
Terry T

 

[Montelores]

I use a product called "Blue Wonder" for any surface rust. It is also available as "RB17" at gun shops and through gunsmiths. Spread it on and then give a good rub with the finest steel wool. This removes rust but will not touch bluing. It is also biodegradable and has no harmful chemicals. Just keep it well oiled after every use and the rust will not come back. I have used this for many years on antique military firearms with great success. Why fool with other more invasive methods?Dave

Thank you for this recommendation.

The website claims that their product will remove oxides of Cu and Pb in the bore, and, since rust is an oxide of Fe, it can be used for rust removal, also.

And it's non-toxic.

http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunCleaner.html

I'll look into this further.

Thanks again -

Monty

 

[Pugsbrew]

I will second Blue Wonder. I had a rifle that I had shot corrosive ammo out of. I thought I got it clean, but not quite. It sat for a number of years and you can imagine what it looked like coming out of the safe. Used the Blue Wonder and it cleaned it all up. I'm sold on it, FWIW.

 

[rayman1968]

There's also a type of steel wool which resembles linguini - flat strands of steel wool.

Here it is:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/metal-wool/stainless-steel-sponge-prod21175.aspx

The explanation I've had about this product is that the "flats" scrape the rust off the flat surfaces of the gun without abrading the bluing.

It has worked well for me.

I did soak the rust spots with gun oil for a period of time before using the steel wool.

Oh - be very gentle on any edges of the gun (with either type of steel wool).

In my experience, that's where the bluing will come off quite easily.

And gentle is the operative word for the entire process.

Monty

P.S. Here a Brownell's video about this topic which I found:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=10990

+1 for this product. I bought some to remove rust from my Coyote Edition LCP that had formed on the slide from sweat in my pocket holster. It removed the rust nicely without harming the bluing.

 

[WESHOOT2]

RB17, made from horse manure, is a secret bore cleaner for certain specialized rifle shooters.

I use it exclusively to clean the bores of my handguns.

 

[mykeal]

+3 for Blue Wonder.

 

[Shadow]

My gunsmith friend highly recommends Blue Wonder applied with Brownell's "linguini" steel wool sponge. If you can't find the BW, use the "linguini" sponge with a medium weight oil for best results. Again, be careful on or near any edges.

Once you've successfully removed the pitting, it's important to wipe off any excess BW or oil and apply 2-3 coats of Renaissance Wax to help prevent further pitting. This stuff is like magic and is readily endorsed for use on valuable antique and modern firearms, all stock & grip material, custom knives, antique furniture, rare paintings, etc.

Shadow

 

[boomer92266]

ok, i have used 0000 wool and rem oil is what i had, with a little flitz too. there still looks like frecks on the gun but when i run my finger over them its smooth. to explain the best i can is, if i took the cylinder or top strap in my hand now and closed my eyes i can't feel the rust or where it is or was, with a light i can see the small frecks there but they are smooth. do i need to do more? also i have been told a pencil eraser will work, will it? have i got it done or do i continue?with it smooth now i really don't know. it wasn't bad to begin with as it was barely felt but i call it freckling. thanks

 

[Beaver Creek]

Find your nearest Amway distributor (gotta be one nearby). Ask for Amway Scrub Buds. 3 to a pack and not cheap but will be the best investment you make. Substitutes work but not as good. Use it dry at first and after the rust spot disappears wipe with CLP or your other favorite lubricant.

 

[Montelores]

By the way, the "linguini" steel wool from Brownell's is stainless.

Monty

P.S. I recall reading somewhere about these Chore Boy copper wool scrubbing pads for rust removal:

http://www.choreboyscrubbers.com/Products/Ultimate%20Scrubbers%20Pure%20Copper.aspx

Maybe someone can chime in on their effectiveness.

 

[boomer92266]

i have had several messages wanting to see exactly what i mean by freckling, i couldn't get a good enough pic on my own gun but found a pic online that is just about exactly like mine. except for the trigger and hammer, in the pic this gun has a rusty trigger and hammer mine is nice and clean and shiny. but on the cylinder and frame are what mine looks like, just spots here and there, now after cleaning, the spots are smooth and can't be felt. here is the pic, thanks

 

[rugerguy]

the spots will always be there ,so just keep it oiled......the spotting in the finish will only be removed by buffing and polishing out the surface, and surrounding area...sometimes a cold blue can be used and the spots will change colors, ,but under a GOOD light, you will still "see' the differences, and 'cold blues' are only temporary, may wipe or clean off quite easily.......bottom line is, the "integrity" of the surface of the metal has been compromised by "rust"...remember the blued finish of a firearm is ONLY "controlled oxidation" in itself. :wink:
The "compromising" also, in time becomes what folks like to call "patina" and when it is ALL the same ( matches) can look decent, BUT it's still "wrong" 8)
Patina is "fine" on antique lamps, but not firearms...... :roll:

 

[boomer92266]

i wanted to thank everyone for their help, i got all the little specks down smooth. i went in my back yard today and fired a few rds of 158 grain sp and 125 grain sp, the 125 were about 1 inch lower at 10 yds. this gun is really something, its a fixed sight but it hits dead on. i put either the 158 or the 125 in less than 2 inches at 10yds off handed using 2 hand grip. the remington 125 soft point are accurate and i'm glad my friend let me get them at a good price. i still prefer the federal 158 soft point tho. thanks again

 

[glw3151]

Just used Blue Wonder on a blued lever gun with some moderate frackling spots on the receiver. Degreased receiver. Applied blue wonder and allowed it to sit for a while. Heated the receiver until the Blue Wonder started to melt and then gentley rubbed affected area with bronze wool. Worked really well. http://www.bluewonder.us/RustRemovalwithBlueWonderGunCleaner.html