Questions about ejector rods and etc....

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oaksalad

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
8
Location
Upstate,SC
Hi,My main question is about the ejector rods and heads.I have the stock
skinny ones on my 2 Bisleys and 1 Super Single Six.I don't really care for the stock ones.So what do you recommend for replacement,the "bullseye" or the "crescent" one?

Next question,I noticed there are 4" and 5" ejector tubes.Does the 5" ones have a longer ejector rods? I would like them to be a little longer on the Bisley's.

Thanks and I hope you understand what I mean. :D
 

bisleyfan41

Blackhawk
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
529
Location
People's Republic of Maryland
Not sure I know what you mean by a"flat locking" ejector rod. If you meant to say "looking", that's different. Ive had no problems with the factory one, but if you wanna change just consider any holstering problems a large-head ejector rod may present. Some like the crescent-head style which keeps a low-profile.

The 5" ejector housings and rods are for the 10.5" Supers, Hunters, and the Maximums. Your Bisleys have holes drilled in the barrel to accomodate the 4" version. Unless you're willing to drill/tap a hole further down the bbl, the 5" one will not work.

If you're looking for more ejector travel, consider a base pin with a shorter head that are sometimes called "sheriff's model" base pins. You'll get more ejector rod travel and not have to drill/tap your bbl. for the longer housing.
 

Aggie01

Blackhawk
Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
968
Location
Texas (DFW)
A Belt Mountain sherfiffs head pin wont get you much ejector travel. the rod will bind up on the stacked coil spring before you touch the base pin. If you are going to the troble of cutting the barrel, a D & T for a longer ERH should be a simple matter for your gunsmith. Particulary on a .357 (lot of barrel to go through before you coul hit the bore) If it's not - find another gunsmith.
If you get a local gunsmith to work on your piece ask a few questions like;

how will you remove the barrel from the frame?
(you want to hear he's got a SA frame wrench - not clamp up the barrel stick a board through the frame.)

how do we reattach the front sight?
(you want to hear silver solder - not JB weld) - or -
(you get a Jim Stroh screw on front sight if he's not comfortable with silver solder - or you get one cause they look cool and are awesome)
I have a "budget" project planned with a "big-name" smith using a jim stroh front sight kit cause he doesnt like silver soldering and its actually cheaper for me to pay for the stroh sight than solder on another one.

How do you make sure that I wont have to sight it in again?
If he comes up with an answer, get a new gunsmith.
if he looks at you like you are stupid, he has an idea of what's going on.
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
7,734
Location
People's Republik of California
Oaksalad,

I, like you, am not happy with the factory ejector button. The New Vaqueros come with a crescent button that you can order and it's a drop in installation. However, still too abbreviated for my taste and doesn't tuck up tight against the barrel when at rest.

A bullseye rod I think you will find ideal but may give you holster fitting issues. There's other options:
For about $35 you can get a rod with 'Colt style' crescent head that takes a little fitting and doesn't have Colt contours exactly. Or a housing and rod for $75 that screws right on. The housing has an offset slot that keeps the head from rubbing down the barrel when used, however, it does not match the factory housing and is a little fatter; I didn't like it. Both available from Brownells.

My ultimate solution was an actual Colt rod from Brownells at about $35. For large calibers it's a drop in. For .22 and .32 single six frames you'll have to drill the hole in the frame slightly larger or thin the rod. I chose to thin the rod by unscrewing the head and chucking it in a power drill or drill press and using croakus cloth like a shoe shine rag. I pointed the end while I was at it so it can find the chamber mouth easier.
On the head end, it's a little longer than the Ruger rod which is good. It allows you to grind (with a dremel tool) a concave groove in the end of the rod to mate up with the ejector housing screw. It you align your concave cut with the ejector rod head held in a tight position against the barrel, you will achieve a slight cammimg action that will tuck the head up close to the barrel when released. A classy little touch and benefit when holstering the gun.

The 5" housing is an excellent choice with barrels over 4 5/8". I used one on a 5 1/2" 44 Mag Blackhawk and it pushed those long cases all the way out. It looks great too because it's even with the end of the barrel. Drilling and tapping the blind hole was and is simple if you've had experience. If not the cost of a gunsmith is worth the benefit.
Hope that helps,
 

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