Question for experts on endshake

eisenhower

Bearcat
Joined
May 24, 2025
Messages
14
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Little Rock
Hi gents,

I recently bought one of the circa-2009 Lipsey's Flattop .44 Specials, blued, 5.5" barrel. I bought it new, unfired in the original box, so was thrilled to get it.

I have only shot 50 rounds through the pistol thus far, but doing some measurements, I want to ask about endshake of the cylinder, and what is acceptable vs. what should be sent to Ruger for examination.

By my measurements with feeler gauges, the cylinder endshake on this revolver measures .004 (determined by the difference in min/max cylinder-to-forcing cone dimensions of .002-.006). At the same time, if I press a feeler gauge into the space between the cylinder gas ring/bearing and frame, I can (with a tight fit) get a .005 feeler gauge into the space. So, all this together, I'm saying the cylinder endhshake is between .004-.005.

From reading here on the forum, it seems Ruger would say the maximum cylinder-forcing cone gap of .006 is within spec, but how about an endshake of .004-.005? My understanding is this is getting into the zone of "too much" and will only get worse. I realize it could be reduced with a shim, but is it too much to begin with for a new gun?

In your opinion, does this warrant a trip to Ruger?

Thanks,
eisenhower
 
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Ideally, endshake should be imperceivable. You'll just be stuck with .006" gap. But, that'll give you something new to address 😮 . . . I'd go for .002" gap.

Mike
 
IMHO, your gun is just fine.......... A 'tight fit .005' is .004" in my world. How does it shoot... ?

J.
 
Shoots fine, but I'm running fairly hot .44 Special loads, like the famous Skeeter Skelton load. Makes me worry such a diet will only exacerbate the endshake pretty rapidly due to the jackhammering of the cylinder back and forth.
 
I'm really no expert, but I think those guns are built well enough to outlast us.... I've got some VERY OLD (like me) Blackhawks that have digested thousands of rounds and seem to me to be "good as new". But, that's just an old man's uneducated opinion.

J.
 
Shoots fine, but I'm running fairly hot .44 Special loads, like the famous Skeeter Skelton load. Makes me worry such a diet will only exacerbate the endshake pretty rapidly due to the jackhammering of the cylinder back and forth.

Well, "hot loads" and endshake are the recipe for wear and more endshake. It doesn't "get better"! David Bradshaw (who's shot a few Rugers) seems to think "endshake" is a rather destructive force. I happen to agree. The cylinder acts as a slide hammer with each shot . . . the more endshake you have, the quicker the damage. At least keep an eye on it!

The resulting gap (when corrected) is much better (non destructive) than the (destructive) endshake you had. For instance my Frontier in 45C/45acp has a removable bushing which allows easy correction with shims. Shimming the cylinders for "0" endshake made for an increase in gap (from .004" to .007") but "gap" isn't destructive and even better, neither is "0" endshake!!
That being said, CORRECTING endshake eliminates "self destruction" and does no harm so why wouldn't you?

Mike
 
Couldn't agree more; I've read David Bradshaw's thoughts on this and, in fact, this is why I want the endshake eliminated.

I've asked Ruger if they'll replace the cylinder—we'll see what they say.
 
By my measurements with feeler gauges, the cylinder endshake on this revolver measures .004 (determined by the difference in min/max cylinder-to-forcing cone dimensions of .002-.006). At the same time, if I press a feeler gauge into the space between the cylinder gas ring/bearing and frame, I can (with a tight fit) get a .005 feeler gauge into the space. So, all this together, I'm saying the cylinder endhshake is between .004-.005.
Are you making these measurements with empty cases in the cylinder, or with an empty cylinder? It may make a difference as the case heads are not recessed and may affect the issue.
 
Cylinder gap and endshake are inseparable issues. A couple years ago when I had 20 revolvers, mostly single action Rugers, I measured the cylinder gaps on all of them. All the Rugers were .003" except for the 44 magnum Blackhawk which was .004" The Colt Frontier single actions were between .003 and .004. The S&W double actions were around .006" Charter Arms around .008". Most of these revolvers were well used, not safe queens. I don't recall any perceptible endshake on any of them other than the Charter Arms.
I would either send it back or accept that's how revolvers are made today due to the talent deficit. That's why I try to only buy revolvers made in the 60's, 70's and early 80's.
 
Are you making these measurements with empty cases in the cylinder, or with an empty cylinder? It may make a difference as the case heads are not recessed and may affect the issue.
Interesting thought, but I tried it with shells and it had no impact. Cylinder doesn't go aft far enough to bind shells against recoil plate.
 
I'm sorry but I'm a firm believer of cartriidges over calipers. When shots go astray check with your gunsmith.

Bob Wright
You don't need calipers, you use feeler gauges . . . you're checking clearances (gap & endshake). The only way headspace could influence endshake is if there's not enough of it.

Mike
 
You don't need calipers, you use feeler gauges . . . you're checking clearances (gap & endshake). The only way headspace could influence endshake is if there's not enough of it.

Mike
I know guages, calipers etc. I said cartridges and calipers because it sounded better than cartridges and feeler guages. But my point is, for me, I shoot the gun before taking any measurements or exams. When the gun goes sour I usually take it to my gunsmith. I seldom rely on factory adjustemts.

Bob Wright
 
I understand your theory of if it's shooting well, don't worry about it, but in the case of excessive end shake, you're actually shortening the useful life of the gun by having that cylinder jackhammering back and forth, so just because it's grouping fine now (when new) doesn't mean the end shake should be ignored.
 
Update: Ruger Customer Service authorized me to send the pistol in so they could investigate the end-shake issue. I was just speaking with a lady in South Carolina (gun is going to New Hampshire), so no promise they'd replace the cylinder or anything, but she didn't say "that amount of end-shake is within spec." or anything like that. So, for $68 in FedEx shipping, it's worth a try. Will let you know how it shakes out - no pun intended!
 
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