I have been thinking about adding a small j frame size revolver to the line up. I have followed all the discussions about the LCR vs the Smiths j frames. My choice will be one of the two. One issue that I am curious about is the Smiths finish. I saw a used one recently that looked more worn than I thought it should. Someone kept in their purse and it clearly had contact with keys or something else that scuffed it. I have had a scuff or two on my stainless guns and I had no problem buffing them right out. It appeared that there was some other kind of finish on their "stainless" guns. I realize it is an aluminum frame, but does that mean it is going to look bad after several years? I know the LCR is polymer and I assume it would behave like my other polymer guns. I dont really see any significant wear on them. So should I consider the finish on a Smith airweight to be something to think about?
Question about j frames
- Thread starter SamV
- Start date
There are several choices of finishes on the Smith J-frames, but I dont see any one being better than the other if carried carelessly.
I have 2 LCR's and just traded my Smith 642 for an SR9c. The LCR trigger is much better than the J-frames.
I have 2 LCR's and just traded my Smith 642 for an SR9c. The LCR trigger is much better than the J-frames.
pisgah
Buckeye
Some of the airweight and "fly-weight" (titanium cylinder) guns have a clearcoat finish on frame and cylinder. This coating is NOT very durable. It starts looking pretty scabby with use, and there's no real way to "refresh" it.
The most durable airweight J frame I have found is the nickel model 38 I have. If you can find a used one, that would be the way to go. As you can see, the blued model 38 looks ragged, but the nickel, even after years of back pocket carry, still looks fine. The middle row of bodyguards in the picture are model 49s, and the top a 649, which are fine for pocket carry but are noticeably heavier than the airweights.
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Just get the all stainless model 60. Very easy to carry/ conceal.
mr surveyor
SP-101
might as well get a SP101 and be completely done with the issue 
pisgah said:
I think pisgah answered my question. The used airweight that I handled looked like the finish was painted on the gun. I don't mind normal bluing wear or minor scuffs on stainless, but this finish was looking chipped up.
As far as the other models suggested, sp101 is on the purchase list, but later. Model 60 is a good choice too, but I want this purchase to be a lighter carry. That is why I narrowed it down to one of the LCRs or one of the Smith and Wesson airweights. Thanks for the replies everyone.
^^^ This!eveled said:
I have a Model 60 that has been carried daily for 8 years. I don't baby it but I don't abuse it either. It's had close to 5,000 rounds through it over those years (mostly 38sp with a smattering of 357mag thrown in).
Carries well, 100% reliable and still looks good even after all that carry time.
Hard to go wrong with one of these. The extra weight also makes the 357mag manageable (not fun but at least manageable).
Jeff
louiethelump
Buckeye
The LCR is only poly in the grip area. The frame is anodized aluminum in the case of the 38 and blackened stainless steel in the case of the 357. The finish is tough but not as tough as a stainless steel gun. I just traded my LCR off toward a 649 like the all stainless one in the picture above to give me access to single action fire if needed. It weighs a little more, but is not a problem in a pocket holster, and the big grips on the Ruger that you don't seem to be able to get much variety with cause a lot of bulk you don't have to put up with on the S&W. I kept the 22 lr LCR with wood grips on it as they are smaller and with it being 22 the wood does not beat up your hand to shoot it.
If you want tough, go stainless steel.
If you want tough, go stainless steel.
Tommy Kelly
Buckeye
I have a older j frame model 36 and the finish is almost all gone. The model 36 is the steel framed j frame. This gun has been carried forever and fired very little. I also have a sp101 that beats the j frame 10 to 1 in my opinion. Heavier but at least 10 times better built. It's also stainless steel all the way through so it can be polished up to look new at any time. S&W has a model 60 that is the same size as the j frame that's stainless. But if I were buying the SP101 is the only choice in the running. They are built like tanks and will last forever.
LTL wrote: "I kept the 22 lr LCR with wood grips on it as they are smaller and with it being 22 the wood does not beat up your hand to shoot it."
What brand wood grips are they, and will they also fit the .38 LCR? Thanks. Black Dog
What brand wood grips are they, and will they also fit the .38 LCR? Thanks. Black Dog
louiethelump
Buckeye
Black Dog:
There were a set of generic handmade hardwood grips I bought on E-bay. The same guy had a set of Bamboo grips and I just missed them when I got busy and they sold. Then he put a black set on there and I bought those. I asked him about more grips and who made them, and he came back that he could get more but they were 70 dollars. If I was going to pay 70, I would pay 80 and get some really nice ones from that outfit out of India. (having a senior moment and cannot recall the name...) Yes they would fit 38 or 357 as all of the stems are the same. He had them advertised for 38/357 but not enjoying hard wood slamming into my hand, I put them on my 22.
This is what I bought on ebay:
There were a set of generic handmade hardwood grips I bought on E-bay. The same guy had a set of Bamboo grips and I just missed them when I got busy and they sold. Then he put a black set on there and I bought those. I asked him about more grips and who made them, and he came back that he could get more but they were 70 dollars. If I was going to pay 70, I would pay 80 and get some really nice ones from that outfit out of India. (having a senior moment and cannot recall the name...) Yes they would fit 38 or 357 as all of the stems are the same. He had them advertised for 38/357 but not enjoying hard wood slamming into my hand, I put them on my 22.
This is what I bought on ebay:
MG-70
Single-Sixer
I happen to like stainless steel guns both for strength and durability. Sure, I have my share of Glocks, but in 5-shot snubnose .38spl revolvers I have the above-mentioned S&W Model 60 (bobbed hammer), SP-101 DAO, and Taurus 850 (concealed hammer a-la S&W640). They're all excellent; the SP101 the easiest to shoot due to its weight. The S&W has the best trigger and smallest size. The Taurus is a good in-between, less weight than the Ruger, and a fully enclosed back, for less dirt to get into. I plan on changing some springs in the Taurus to make the trigger nicer, but they all group comparably. I won't trade the durability of an all steel gun for the weight savings of an alloy receiver in guns of the same size/design.
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If you go with a J frame check out the Barami hip grip. A model 60 with a Barami hip grip is probably the easiest gun I've ever carried. You won't notice the weight at all. I actually forget I'm carrying it. They don't make a hip grip for the sp101. Ed
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