Problems with the early #1s?

[PinnedAndRecessed]

I recently bought a used 98% #1 Standard in 30-06. On another forum there was a thread discussing issues with the #1.

One problem was long throated chambers. What is that and how will I know if it's a problem on mine?

Another problem is in the way the forearm is attached to the receiver. What's this issue all about?

Finally, they mentioned a problem with the trigger and that replacing it with a more expensive (aftermarket?) trigger is the practical solution.

I haven't fired the gun yet, but maybe somebody could give me some background info on the above issues and if there's a serial number range in the affected rifles.

 

[RSIno1]

Start with JD Clayton's book Ruger No1. Lots of info on the early pre prefix guns. Discussions on fixes for problems that affected some but not all guns. Track down Numero Uno on this board. His web site has lots more info and you can order Claytons book from him. In about the last six to nine months I've bought 4 No1s anRSI in 30-06 not looking for much long range accuracy due to its 20" barrel and full length stock. My 1H is a 458Win Mag I'll be happy with minute of elephant on that one. Got a 1S in 7mm Rem Mag and a 1B in 300 Win Mag these two I'm hoping to get some small groups in the 300-500 yard range. I've got all the new brass dies powder and primers just waiting for some time to load up several test rounds - these 80 hour work week are really killing my shooting time but at least the collection isn't suffering.

 

[gewehrfreund]

Your last sentence is the key: you haven't fired the rifle yet. Do that before worrying about any real or imagined "deficiencies".
I have never heard of a long-thraoted 30-06 in a No. 1, though others may have. The long throats were most common in the earlier 7x57s since Ruger chambered them for the factory ammo available in the US at that time - the long, round-nosed 175gr bullet.
Forearm bedding/pressure point MAY be a problem. especially in your lighter barreled 1A, but again, shoot it first and you may be pleasantly surprised. As for triggers, the better 3-screw trigger was replaced during 1976/77 with the not-so-great 2-screw lawyer-inspired version. That said, the latter design can be perfectly fine, especially if your main purpose is hunting. There is plenty of information about triggers and everything else No. 1 related here, on other websites (just do a search) and in the No. 1 book by Clayton.

 

[wunbe]

All my #1s -- at one time nearly 40, now culled down to @ 25 -- have had their triggers satisfactorily reworked to a crisp 3lb pull. You do not need a new after market trigger. That way they all break at about the same point -- no guess work. I insist on smooth, predictable triggers for hunting as they can make a difference in clean kills.

The early guns had much more hand-fitting than later issued pieces. The contracted out barrels of the late 70s onward though were a crap shoot --literally -- with some very rough work that passed the final inspection.

wunbe

 

[Chief 101]

I would follow the above recommendations to shoot it and see how it shoots. I have one V model and one B model that take light forend pressure to shoot well, other than that the rest are most excellent shooters out of the box.

 

[picketpin]

How early?? Serial number?

Prior to 1980 the #1 had a 3 screw adjustable trigger. You can get them to 3 pretty easy and with a bit of work a bit lower. All of my "hunting rifles (#1s) are adjusted at 2 pounds with zero creep or backlash. The only ones out of 37 or so that wear anything other than factory triggers are varmint or target rifles (#1s) that I'm trying to squeeze the very last bit of accuracy out of. From 243 up through 338 Win Mag all shoot at or very very near MOA without a whole bunch of work other than finding a load each prefers. #1s are pretty specific in their likes individually. I have 5 in 257 Roberts. They range from Douglas barreled all the way through Ruger barreld from the 90s. Each shoots a different load as it's BEST load. That said among the 13 owned within my family in 257 Roberts, they all shoot a specific load with 115 Noslers at or near MOA. (We did take them to the smith and have them all throated the same so I don't have to keep track of 13 different seating depths)

Most #1s shoot best with a bit of forearm pressure that's why there is a pressure pad in the tip of the forearm. Pressure can be varied by adjusting the forearm screw. In the last few years many of us have been sanding it out and replacing it with a piece of truck inner tube about 1" long. It seems to be more consistent than the wood which can get hardened and compressed over time and repeated firing.

The issue with LONG throats appeared with the Wilson barrels in 1973. Mostly in the 7x57 that seemed to have been throated for 175 round nosed bullets early on. I have never heard of an 06 that had the issue.

Sometimes you get lucky and a #1 will shoot great right of the box. Some require a bit of load work or trying different ammo. Barrel harmonics seems to be the critical issue.

About 98% of the BS about #1s is spread by guys that have never shot or owned one OR got one that didn't shot sub MOA out of the box with a load and they never put in any time working with the rifle.
One of the MOST accurate #1s I own is a 22BR that started life as a factory Wilson barreled 218 BEE and was rechambered. With a bit of work, mostly finding the bullet it liked it shoot sub 1/2" 5 shot groups all day. Prior to 1973 the barrels were match grade Douglas barrels

From nothing other than your checkering pattern I'd say your rifle was built sometime after mid 1976. So either a Wilson barrel or if made after 1991 it'll have a Ruger factory hammer forged barrel. Red pads ran through 1993.

By the way your rifle is a "A" or Light Sporter. The "B" or Standard Sporter has a Semi Beaver tail forearm, a 26" barrel and no sights.

Good luck and keep us posted.

There are accuracy/tuning tips in the files section on the #1 Site over on Yahoo.

A good #1 with the right load will shoot as well as most bolt guns. The best bolt guns will always outshoot the best #1s just based on the design. Those of us that seriously tinker with our #1s have gotten them into the 1/2" MOA area pretty consistently and if chambered in inherently accurate cartridges have dipped into the .3s The BEST 5 shot group I have ever shot with a #1 was .315 with a 257 Roberts "V" with a Shilen barrel.

Shoot it first BEFORE you do anything. Try a couple of different loads if it doesn't like the first one. After that there are a series of things you can do that cost little or nothing that usually improve accuracy. But heck, you might not need to do anything other than shoot factory ammo right out of the box.

The best

Ross

 

[instructor]

Only have two No.1's(well, one is a No.3) and they are both of older production runs, but as mentioned have heard all of the above complaints, but in my case not had any problems of any sort. Triggers are fine for hunting on both of them and so is accuracy. Should point out that both have had barrels changed due to desire for different calibers than original. No.3 taken from 22Hornet to 45/70 and other than changing barrel and extractor nothing else required. Altered the forearm by doing away with the plastic barrel band and sculpting forearm to suit. The No.1 is a combo of 22-250 w/ 7 twist barrel for use of heavy match type bullets plus have another barrel for it in 348Win. to accompany my '71 in .348Win. Switching from one barrel to another is about a half hour job. The action on the No.1/3's are a marvel of engineering and once you check into them they are not that difficult to take apart if needed and you can turn one into about any caliber desired for they are super strong in all respects. Using the 80gr Sierra MK's and combined with the Unertl 16x scope the 22-250 combo is very accurate out to and beyond the 600yd. line. It's a shame Ruger discontinued these rifles for they offer a great deal of value for the price