Power Custom GF install

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Sep 16, 2016
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I came across a Power Custom brass 2 piece GF new in bag. I'm currently attempting to install it on my OM 41 mag. Easy enough, open trigger slot for SBH trigger, file work to fit to main frame and hammer ears. My question is about the hammer strut/spring seat on the GF. This 1 piece saddle mounted to the front of the GF appears to make the strut/spring a semi permanent mount, no easy way to remove it once it's pinned to release pressure from the trigger. Is this the way it's supposed to work? And does the spring itself just sit on top of that saddle?
 
I thought so. I couldn't figure any other way to work that perch setup. An odd setup by a modern manufacturer, to make an easily removable "assembly under pressure", a semi permanent PIA removal/replacement project.
 
No, not correct.

The spring does not mount directly on the saddle of the grip frame. You must use all the parts from the original Ruger grip frame including the spring perch. It mounts in the saddle and should still be mounted on the spring strut with the spring and retained by the disassembly pin.

Once the the grip frame is attached to the gun, mount the spring assembly in the grip frame with perch in the saddle. Cock the hammer and remove the pin. It assembles and disassembles the same as it did in the original Ruger grip frame.
 
odd. when I completed the undecided project using an rp grip frame I got new on gb for 50 bucks, the original ruger spring perch was not needed. perhaps there are multiple versions. photo of the set up below.

iHEY7CH.jpg
 
Correct that's a different version if it's Power Custom.

So if the OP doesn't want his main spring to be semi permanent, he just needs to drill another hole in the strut a little higher up, and file a U shaped groove in the grip frame saddle. Then he can capture the spring above the saddle and it won't be captured by the saddle.

The same way the spring is mounted in a Ruger grip frame with the lock. No separate perch is needed. And the spring and strut are free of the grip frame but still held together by the disassembly pin. In fact, just get the strut for a Ruger with a lock and no hole drilling is needed.

And in the Bearcat, spring is captured without the perch. Bearcat perch below:
925417.jpg
 
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well, heck, I though since googling ron power brings up the power custom site, they was one and the same. ill have to keep looking, i'd like to see the different grip frames.

https://www.powercustom.com/pc_about.htm
 
Sharps40 said:
odd. when I completed the undecided project using an rp grip frame I got new on gb for 50 bucks, the original ruger spring perch was not needed. perhaps there are multiple versions. photo of the set up below.

iHEY7CH.jpg
This is how my setup looks (except it's brass). To use the perch (even if I flipped it upside down) would add more compression to the spring. So with this setup I don't use the perch? Just file the notch and drill a new hole?
 
How about using a saddle and a lighter hammer spring or cut a few coils off the existing hammer spring?
 
I did not use the saddle nor file a groove. And. Cutting coils makes a heavy slow hammer slower. Use as you have it set up now.
 
Sharps40 said:
well, heck, I though since googling ron power brings up the power custom site, they was one and the same. ill have to keep looking, i'd like to see the different grip frames.

https://www.powercustom.com/pc_about.htm

This page shows the apparently new style in row two or three (depending on how large your screen setting is) and it's for the old Ruger and the other style in row four or five and it's for the new model Ruger:

https://www.midwayusa.com/s?targetLocation=%2F_%2FN-23011%2B4294930493%3FNp%3D2%26Nr%3DAND%2528p_visible%253A1%252Ccustomertypeid%253A1%2529%26Nrpp%3D96%26Ns%3Dp_metric_sales_velocity%257C1%26Ntpc%3D1%26Ntpr%3D1%26Ntt%3Dgrip%2Bframe&userItemsPerPage=48&persistedItemsPerPage=0
 
cool now I get it. was confused, thought from your post that ron power and power custom were two separate businesses. I see now, they revised their frame configuration. thanks for the clarification.
 
Thank you for the input. I've picked up a lot of knowledge and ideas by lurking around this forum (aka read everything and learn). Sharps40; your photo showed I was on the right track and cleared up my confusion on what to do with that perch/spring retainer. Hondo44; notch and drill is an easy solution to spring capture that eluded my thought process, probably due to the perch question. But, certainly saved a little head scratching.
 
Those struts are hard hard to drill. Never had success w HHS bits. May need a TiN bit or carbide.
 
Deer Hunter said:
Thanx for that heads up.

Sharps20 is right! They are almost impossible to drill. I use a diamond ball grinding bit in a Dremel.

However, I forgot to mention in my above post; to get the strut for the Ruger lock, Ruger will send it for free, just call. They're policy is to send any parts under $25 free including shipping. Ask for the spring for the lock as well. It's shorter than your original and you'll have two tensions to choose from. If they ask for a serial #, use mine: #510-96645, it's a New Vaquero 44 Special.
 
And here you have both styles listed on the drop-down menu: http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=67
 
Thx. But they don't even show either one, new or old style. PC has the worst website:
1. There's no 2nd or 3rd gen Rugers, and these don't fit Colts,
2. There's no distinguishing photos of the two styles,
3. and how do you order for old model or new model Rugers? I know they make both.
4. You can only choose the material and style.

You can see them and the differences on Midway; link in my earlier post.
 
Hondo44 said:
Thx. But they don't even show either one, new or old style. PC has the worst website:
1. There's no 2nd or 3rd gen Rugers, and these don't fit Colts,
2. There's no distinguishing photos of the two styles,
3. and how do you order for old model or new model Rugers? I know they make both.
4. You can only choose the material and style.

You can see them and the differences on Midway; link in my earlier post.


The link I posted, at least on my computer, gives you two drop-down menus. One is to select old or new model, the other is to select material.
 
Thanks, Jim. Parts are on the way. The lady at Ruger said there were no options on the spring. They are sending me a strut, spring and seat, no charge.
 
Enigma said:
Hondo44 said:
Thx. But they don't even show either one, new or old style. PC has the worst website:
1. There's no 2nd or 3rd gen Rugers, and these don't fit Colts,
2. There's no distinguishing photos of the two styles,
3. and how do you order for old model or new model Rugers? I know they make both.
4. You can only choose the material and style.

You can see them and the differences on Midway; link in my earlier post.


The link I posted, at least on my computer, gives you two drop-down menus. One is to select old or new model, the other is to select material.

Does that 1st drop down menu refer to their old or new model grip frame; or old or new model Ruger?

Did she say if it will fit your Old Model Ruger with proper hole for the old model trigger return spring and plunger?

Let us know when you get it.
 
Deer Hunter said:
Thanks, Jim. Parts are on the way. The lady at Ruger said there were no options on the spring. They are sending me a strut, spring and seat, no charge.

Cool,

Unfortunately they do not know their products that well.

The guns with locks have a shorter strut and 24 coil spring.
Those w/o locks have the longer strut and 28 coil spring.

When you get the parts I can supply you with measurements and we'll figure out which strut and spring she sent you.
 
Parts arrived today. 24 coil spring and 3 1/4" strut length. Plus a new spring perch and what i'm assuming is a capture pin. I've never had one, I just use a finishing nail or small punch.
 
Hondo44 said:
Deer Hunter,

Are you making progress?

Jim
Very heavy work load has kept progress slow. The new strut is the same length as the old one. Groove in strut mount is done and the spring sits and captures fine. I have had everything together and the mechanics are fine. I had previously installed SS ejector rod, spring, Belt Mt #5 cylinder pin and latch. They have now gone back to blue and going to order a blue #5. I had also removed the bluing from the SBH hammer and trigger that I installed and polished them to a high luster. I now intend to reblue them (including the sides of the hammer). Gun will be entirely blue/black with brass GF. What I need is time and the right frame of mind to do the file fitting of the GF to the main frame and fit a pair of Hogue ebony grips to the GF. The wife is going away for 1 1/2 weeks so, maybe I'll get in a little me time so I can make better progress.

Mike
 

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