Polishing out cylinder ring

[HOGHEAD2]

Loaned out my stainless Blackhawk and stainless Vaquero-explained loading procedure and how to position cylinder prior to closing loading gate. I guess they did not listen. Now I need to know what is the best product to polish out cylinder lines? No more loaning for me (was my brother). Any help please?

 

[Cholo]

Scotch-Brite pads have been highly recommended on the Forum. I bought some at WalMart to try on a stainless Mark ll .22 that was scratched when I bought it new. You'll find them in the section of the store that sells cleaning products. Rub in the direction of the finish. It's obvious if you look at it.

From what I've read on here you'll be good to go in no time!

 

[DGW1949]

About the only way that I know of to prevent a "cylinder line" on an unaltered 2-pin SA Ruger is to NOT ever cock or shoot it. In other words, your brother has no more control over Ruger's 40+ year old timing problem than you or I do.
Not saying that the Scotchbrite trick won't work, just saying that if you plan on shooting them guns much that you might want to buy it by the box.

No offense meant.

DGW

 

[HOGHEAD2]

I have always centered the cylinder with a flute in the straight up position with the gun in the loading position after loading before closing the gate and have ever only had very faint rings if any. He just closed the gate after loading then turned the cylinder to lock up. Im probably too picky but I try to keep them nice. Maybe I have just been lucky with the timing on mine! (would be the first time Ive ever been lucky)

 

[rugerguy]

yes 'hoghead', nature of the beast, we too use the 3M Scotch brite pads, and rub around the cylinder, perpindicular to the bore...this will blend in any and all "marks, rubs, etc...."
we also used,in the shop, a 'Cratex' fiber wheel,but try and stay away from any and all power equiipment, unless you are used to it....will do more harm, than good............but for "mass polishing parts" this sure sped up the process, besides that wheel cost like $70... :shock:

 

[flatgate]

One can retime the cylinder latch so it doesn't hit the cylinder until the cylinder's bolt cut leeds are lined up with the latch.

All my New Model shooters get this modification.

flatgate

Image "borrowed" from R.F.'s early days. Poster unknown ATTM.

 

[powder smoke]

One can retime the cylinder latch so it doesn't hit the cylinder until the cylinder's bolt cut leeds are lined up with the latch.

All my New Model shooters get this modification.

flatgate

Image "borrowed" from R.F.'s early days. Poster unknown ATTM.

+1

As mentioned above Loading procedure will not stop a cylinder ring on a New Model. Lengthen the cylinder latch is the way to go. Nature of the beast they leave a ring when latch drags on the cylinder before the latch catches to the next notch. Flategate got the cure ps

 

[tommyt]

One can retime the cylinder latch so it doesn't hit the cylinder until the cylinder's bolt cut leeds are lined up with the latch.

All my New Model shooters get this modification.

flatgate
Image "borrowed" from R.F.'s early days. Poster unknown ATTM.

Can you give me More details on this or the Original Post (link)

Thank you
Tommyt

 

[flatgate]

Can you give me More details on this?

Thank you
Tommyt

Make your cylinder latch match the dimension shown. TIG welding is the first choice but I've done most with MIG............

flatgate

 

[HOGHEAD2]

Thanks for everyones help-scotchbite polished out the ring. Took the Blackhawk out and shot 100 rounds. Just got a very faint ring now. I always used the loading procedure above to index the cylinder cut leads close to the latch before closing it because I was told the latch drug hard on the cylinder when manually rotating it to lock in. Just didnt know any better-thanks for telling me the correct facts.

 

[mohavesam]

Stoning the latch leading edges and contact contour into a mirror-bright finish can also give a 90% solution to a drag line. Be careful not to taper the long axis-profile, as you need the full width-contact of the latch for lock-up timing.

The "other solution" include turning the cylinder to a bright circumferential band in which all latch contact occurs. Mag-na-port has done this for decades and I think it looks classy.

Otherwise you could always keep a black Sharpie handy (for blued guns), and touch-up your cylinder line after cleaning!

;)

 

[Rafsob]

Can you give me More details on this?

Thank you
Tommyt

Make your cylinder latch match the dimension shown. TIG welding is the first choice but I've done most with MIG............flatgate

I guess if I don't undersand your explanation, then I shouldn't try this fix? Am I taking off or building up???

MIG,TIG????? Sorry, doesn't seem too clear to me pal.

 

[J Miller]

Can you give me More details on this?

Thank you
Tommyt

Make your cylinder latch match the dimension shown. TIG welding is the first choice but I've done most with MIG............flatgate

I guess if I don't undersand your explanation, then I shouldn't try this fix? Am I taking off or building up???

MIG,TIG????? Sorry, doesn't seem too clear to me pal.

Doing it the way flatgates picture shows is adding length to the leg of the latch. The longer the leg, the later the latch rises to contact the cylinder. You add metal to it then adjust it if needed to get the timing you desire.

MIG and TIG is a type of welding equipment. I'm not a welder so I can't describe them.

Joe

 

[Rafsob]

Doing it the way flatgates picture shows is adding length to the leg of the latch. The longer the leg, the later the latch rises to contact the cylinder. You add metal to it then adjust it if needed to get the timing you desire.

MIG and TIG is a type of welding equipment. I'm not a welder so I can't describe them.

Joe

Thanks a lot Joe, I guess this is beyond my pay grade. Thanks for the explanation.

 

[M'BOGO]

MIG feeds the wire welding stock through a hand peace, that has a trigger on it.

TIG has an electrode that you hold in one hand, and you feed the wire stock with your other hand.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIG_welding

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TIG_welding

 

[TiteGroups]

I'll have to order a couple of those latches and give it a try and see how accurate my MIG skills are. Thanks.