P95 and P95DC. Upper swap help.

[roylt]

So I looked at these two guns very closely and the only thing I can see different is the frame on the safe model has a slot for the trigger bar to ride. The DC unit doesn't need this slot because the safety lever doesn't need to push down on the trigger bar.

So I cut a slot in the DC frame for the trigger bar and swapped parts around. The safe frame with the DC parts works great but the DC frame with the safe parts is real hard in double action. When you pull the trigger the hammer will go back fine. But you have to pull the trigger very hard to get the hammer to drop. In single action it works great.

Any idea what is going on here? I was careful to keep the hammers and sears together so they mate correctly etc. I basically swapped all the internal parts from frame to frame.

I am starting to second guess myself but am pretty sure I did not confuse any parts.

I guess I can always try to switch everything back and see if it works.

Thanks in advance for any pointers.

 

[blume357]

My first answer is you can't do that... but it seems like a few years back someone here did.... so, I'm bumping this in hopes that they see it... it was so far back, I'm not sure the search function would work.

 

[roylt]

Had a little spare time this morning and figured it out. The trigger was the answer. Where the trigger bar mates to the trigger was just slightly different and changed the travel of the trigger bar pistol to pistol. I didn't swap those the first time. I figured they were just a bin part for assembly but it fixed all issues.

I again have two perfectly working 95s!

DC unit with newer railed frame and safe unit with old smooth frame.

So to conclude. Swap trigger, trigger bar, hammer, sear, blocker lever. You may not really have to swap the hammer, sear, and blocker but I did just because the trigger bar uses the groove in the hammer and then the sear also mates to the hammer. And then of course you have to slot the DC units frame for the trigger bar.

Pretty easy really. The only "smith work" was the frame slot which is just a small straight cut. Dremel is what I used with a cutoff disc.

Regards.