p345 recoil spring

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texasjim2

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 28, 2010
Messages
19
Location
big spring ,texas
I read somewhere that wolf makes a 15 lb. recoil spring for the p345 I have often thought that some of the click no bang issues might possibly be because of the lite spring that comes from the factory., I have noticed that my pistol will somtimes stop just short of going into full battery and a litlle nudge is all it takes to seat it fully. My ? is have any of you noticed this and replaced the spring with the wolf one to correct this problem. I have alway's thought the spring seemed a little on the anemic side thanks for any replies in advance Jim
 

dakota1911

Buckeye
Joined
Mar 26, 2009
Messages
1,021
Springs are not that expensive. I would try the new spring. On the other hand it could be some other things. Do you always shoot new ammo or sometimes reloads? Do you always shoot the same factory ammo? I would vary a few things and see what happens.
 

texasjim2

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 28, 2010
Messages
19
Location
big spring ,texas
Dakota1911
I shoot both factory and also reload and cast bullets I will admit I had a problem with my reloads until I got the seating depth and crimp "taper crimp" just right but I believe I have gotten past those problems. I have always just thought the recoil spring was a little to light especially compared to my para LTC then I came across a thread indicating the same thing so I was just curios if others thought the spring was a little lite also. Thank you for your reply Jim
 

BuckJM53

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 25, 2008
Messages
337
Location
SW Ohio
Jim ... Wolff makes a 15 & 17 lb recoil spring (the factory is 13) http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?pag ... D=1&mID=52 . For $8.00 it's probably worth a try. Mine failed to go completely into battery a couple of times during the 1st 25 rounds. Since then (the next 2,500+ rounds), it has been perfect. Let us know how it works out with the heavier spring if you decide to go that route.
 

texasjim2

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 28, 2010
Messages
19
Location
big spring ,texas
Buck I'm not trying to badmouth the ruger I have about 6 other rugers in my stable and have always had good luck with them all. I'm thinking of ccw'ing the 345 along with my sp101 usually if I load a mag then chamber a round ,then top off the mag if I pull back on the slide about a1/16" it will not always return tobattery. now I know that this is an induced problem but I was just thinking I would like to have a spring stout enough to push the slide fully into battery. ? is am I expecting to much out of the gun? jim
 

buckshotshorty

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 10, 2008
Messages
387
Mine also failed to go completely into battery a few times when I first got it. One thing I discovered is when seating semi-wadcutters, they must be seated deep enough so that there is no shoulder sticking up high. I now use my barrel, removed from the gun to make sure that bullets will be flush with the chamber. After I started doing that, the problem went away.
 

texasjim2

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 28, 2010
Messages
19
Location
big spring ,texas
Buckshotshorty I cast the lee 230 tc bullet and had a prob. with the bullets being out of round in one of the cavity's so when I sized and lubed them it would displace a little bit of lead on the driving band and create a ridge, the chambered shells would sometimes try to headspace on that ridge instead of the case mouth thus preventing chambering so I try'd seating the bullets a little deeper but wound up with the col. being to short and when I loaded a full mag. the first time I chambered a round would cause a jam. Like trying to seat 2 bullets at once but only with 8 rounds in the mag. If I loaded 7 rnds. it worked everytime. I ended up turning reversing the bullets and running the bullet into my sizer nose first just enough about 1/16" to displaced the ridge into the lube ring then I ran them in the correct way and could then adjust my seating depth so that I didn't get anymore jams with a full mag. jim
 

texasjim2

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 28, 2010
Messages
19
Location
big spring ,texas
tdyoung 58 I have never had a prob with factoty rnds either only when I started casting my own for the 45 auto I have cast for revolvers for years and the auto was a learnung curve compounded by an out of round bullet mold but thanks to some of you guys sharing your knowledge I have gotten past all those problems. I have just always felt that the recoil spring could stand to be a little stiffer if for no other reason than to help a marginal round fully chamber jim
 

buckshotshorty

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 10, 2008
Messages
387
texasjim2":2oaf88ex said:
Buckshotshorty I cast the lee 230 tc bullet and had a prob. with the bullets being out of round in one of the cavity's so when I sized and lubed them it would displace a little bit of lead on the driving band and create a ridge, the chambered shells would sometimes try to headspace on that ridge instead of the case mouth thus preventing chambering so I try'd seating the bullets a little deeper but wound up with the col. being to short and when I loaded a full mag. the first time I chambered a round would cause a jam. Like trying to seat 2 bullets at once but only with 8 rounds in the mag. If I loaded 7 rnds. it worked everytime. I ended up turning reversing the bullets and running the bullet into my sizer nose first just enough about 1/16" to displaced the ridge into the lube ring then I ran them in the correct way and could then adjust my seating depth so that I didn't get anymore jams with a full mag. jim


What you describe sounds very similar to my experience.

pb
 
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