OM conversion question

[TennVol]

I may have to send my OM Single Six to Ruger for service. I am aware they automatically install the transfer bar (and other parts) to convert the gun to a safer model if they perform any work at all on the gun. I am also aware they send back the original parts with the gun.

My question is this, what is to keep you from just removing the new parts and re-installing the old ones when you get your gun (and original parts) back?

 

[princeout]

If they return all the parts, which they supposedly do, you can certainly reinstall them - as long as they weren't causing the initial problem. Ruger will stamp the main frame to indicate it has been converted. This will put off some collectors and at least one of the name gunsmiths has chosen not to do further conversion work on revolvers Ruger has safety-converted.

If it were mine, I'd try and fix it or have it fixed elsewhere.

Tim

 

[TennVol]

I had no idea they stamped the main frame...pretty sneaky!

I guess I will look for a local smith to see if they can fix the issues I'm having with the gun. The reason I bought it was because it was an OM. Sending it back to Ruger pretty much ruins that deal....

Thanks for the answer.

 

[J2X]

The ones I have seen had an inconspicuous mark under the grips, but they were converted some time ago. Sure, a collector could tell, but it did not deface the piece. Are they marking them differently now?
I have heard of folks removing the original parts before shipping to Ruger, just in case the factory did not return everything.

 

[Hondo44]

Ruger doesn't care if you convert it back. Once they have the serial number on file as being converted and the stamp on the bottom of the cylinder frame under the trigger guard, they are safe from being sued if you shoot yourself or someone else. They've done their "due diligence" from a legal perspective.

I've never sent one in for conversion that I didn't get the parts back and I converted them all back. I just needed the wide SBH triggers and Bearcat wide spur hammers. I got new grips too if I didn't send with the gun.

 

[Hondo44]

I may have to send my OM Single Six to Ruger for service. I am aware they automatically install the transfer bar (and other parts) to convert the gun to a safer model if they perform any work at all on the gun. I am also aware they send back the original parts with the gun.

My question is this, what is to keep you from just removing the new parts and re-installing the old ones when you get your gun (and original parts) back?

By the way, what's so seriously in need of service that it has to go back to Ruger? There's not much that can't be fixed at home if reasonably skilled or by a local gunsmith, worst case scenario.

 

[flatgate]

I'll ALWAYS remove the lockwork prior to sending the revolver to Ruger for work. Then there's no doubt........

flatgate

 

[SteveRuger]

I'll ALWAYS remove the lockwork prior to sending the revolver to Ruger for work. Then there's no doubt........

flatgate

Best be safe than SORRY ! Remove the old parts!

 

[contender]

Most of the above advice is right on. However,, I do not recall Ruger ever stamping a gun under the grips when the conversion was done. The mainframe is the serial numbered piece,, so they have always stamped the mainframe on the bottom where the gripframe hides it. Out of sight,, and out of mind UNLESS some crazy lawyer tries to sue them over another unsafe gun.

 

[TennVol]

I may have to send my OM Single Six to Ruger for service. I am aware they automatically install the transfer bar (and other parts) to convert the gun to a safer model if they perform any work at all on the gun. I am also aware they send back the original parts with the gun.

My question is this, what is to keep you from just removing the new parts and re-installing the old ones when you get your gun (and original parts) back?

By the way, what's so seriously in need of service that it has to go back to Ruger? There's not much that can't be fixed at home if reasonably skilled or by a local gunsmith, worst case scenario.

Here's what I have diagnosed so far:
1. The hammer will not stop on the first cocked position (Safe) unless I pull the trigger forward as the hammer is cocked.
2. Same problem with the 2nd position (half cock). It will only stay in that position if I pull the trigger forward while cocking the hammer.
3. When the hammer is at "safe" or "half cock", I can pull the trigger and it will drop the hammer every time - Not Good!

I have completely disassembled/cleaned/reassembled the gun a couple of times and the problem persists. I have visually inspected the three notches in the hammer, but they appear to be OK.

If it turns out I need to replace the hammer, I've already located one that I can just swap out. I'm not really an expert on this, so any advice offered would be most welcome!

 

[G2]

A Detailed Picture of the notch area of the hammer would help all of us internet kitchen table homeboy gunsmiths assure you if the hammer is good.
YES One can pull the trigger from the 1/4 & 1/2 Notch positions.
BUT MAN YOU GOT TO BE PULLING PERTY DERN HARD!! :roll:

You mention you have totally tore the gun down and cleaned. DID you pull the trigger spring & plunger, clean and re-lube the hole?
From what you describe it sounds like gunk in the trigger spring/plunger/hole, or a short or wrong trigger spring, or a missing plunger??
ALSO verify that the trigger spring hole has not been deepen'd. Some good ol boy do this thinking they are going to lighten the trigger spring tension. A detailed picture of these parts would let the IKTHBGS give you more accurate opinion too.

Notches look like these?

 

[wwb]

#1 and #2 sound like the trigger return spring or associated hardware.

Maybe, as G2 says, you can drop the hammer from half-cock if you pull hard enough, but I've pulled pretty hard, and never had it fall.

 

[Hondo44]

I think the top of the trigger (the sear) may be broken off or so worn that it's too thick and no longer fits into the hammer notches.
That's presuming the notches are not broken and do look like G2's picture above. That would cause the trigger to release very easily. It would also still allow it to hold on the full cock notch.

Try the trigger in the notches with the hammer and trigger on the outside of the gun mounted on the leftside of the frame with their screws thru them and into their holes to get proper positioning between hammer notches and trigger sear. The hammer screw will thread into its hole; the trigger screw will slip into its hole.

Let us know what you find, but it could be a simple trigger replacement.

 

[TennVol]

When I get home from work tonight, I'll take it apart again and photograph all of the parts - especially the hammer & trigger. Thanks for all of the feedback.

...Come to think of it, I don't remember pulling the plunger and spring from the trigger. I'll take a look at that also.

 

[G2]

...Come to think of it, I don't remember pulling the plunger and spring from the trigger. I'll take a look at that also.

Ahhhh I bet your going to find the problem. :wink: :wink:

when you pull the grip frame assembly,,, the trigger plunger body should stick out the whole length of the fat part of the body when not under any constraint.

Don't be afraid to pull on that little sucker they can get stuck in there fairly good.

 

[TennVol]

...Come to think of it, I don't remember pulling the plunger and spring from the trigger. I'll take a look at that also.

Ahhhh I bet your going to find the problem. :wink: :wink:

when you pull the grip frame assembly,,, the trigger plunger body should stick out the whole length of the fat part of the body when not under any constraint.

Don't be afraid to pull on that little sucker they can get stuck in there fairly good.

Outstanding diagnosis! I removed/cleaned/oiled the trigger spring and plunger & after re-installing it, everything worked like a champ! I guess next time I will follow ALL of the disassembly steps.

Thanks for the help!