NMV - trigger not fully resetting

[TheOtherLeft]

Hi guys,

I have a 38 spl New Vaquero which is new and I've only shot about 70 rounds through it.

There's a small problem with the trigger not fully resetting after firing or dry firing. It's such that the firing pin remains slightly proud of the frame after pulling the trigger. If I slightly wriggle the trigger or hammer the pin fully retracts and is back to normal.

During firing sequences it's not a problem since I have to cock the hammer anyway.

I've cleaned the Vaquero as best as I can without stripping it (I just remove the cylinder etc for general cleaning). I've pulled the grips off and sprayed automotive degreaser in there and worked the action...but no success.

I can push the firing pin in from the rear (transfer bar side) with a small screwdriver and it springs back easily, so I think it's not the firing pin rebound spring.

Maybe it's something in the trigger mechanism catching?

What do you guys think?

Thanks.

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum!
If you have a dedicated 38 Spl new Vaquero,, it's a new model to me! (I'll bet it's a 357 that you can use 38's in!)
Anyway,, I would think that it's likely a minor burr or something in the hammer, trigger engagement area. If you aren't comfortable enough in tearing the gun apart to inspect it & check for such stuff,,, a gunsmith can look at it to see if that's the issue. A simple "smoothing" of the action by a gunsmith may be all it would need AND would improve the feel anyway.
Many of my Rugers get a good smoothing of the action when I get one to shoot.

 

[NewportNewsMike]

What contender said should put you on the correct path.

I would also include looking to see if the transfer bar somehow is sticking in the up position and not allowing everything to reset. A small burr or extra roughness in the wrong spot could cause it to stick.

Although it can be very aggravating on a new gun, in my experience, it is not unusual to have to do some polishing and fitting on a new Ruger to get it to work the way that it should have worked when it left the factory.

In my mind, this is the "price" one pays for not having to pay the extra $$$ (think Freedom Arms, et cetera) for a finely fitted / polished gun right out of the box.

Keep us posted on what you learn. Any info that comes out of this, and gets posted, can help the next fellow with a similar problem.

 

[mike454]

I'd look to see if the hammer is getting wedged forward on firing and trapping the transfer bar thus preventing the trigger from resetting.

 

[cadillo]

What contender said should put you on the correct path.

I would also include looking to see if the transfer bar somehow is sticking in the up position and not allowing everything to reset. A small burr or extra roughness in the wrong spot could cause it to stick.

Although it can be very aggravating on a new gun, in my experience, it is not unusual to have to do some polishing and fitting on a new Ruger to get it to work the way that it should have worked when it left the factory.

In my mind, this is the "price" one pays for not having to pay the extra $$$ (think Freedom Arms, et cetera) for a finely fitted / polished gun right out of the box.

Keep us posted on what you learn. Any info that comes out of this, and gets posted, can help the next fellow with a similar problem.

You've nailed it. I had the exact same problem with one of my Bisleys. I disassembled and played with it a bit and could clearly see that the transfer bar was dragging and sticking on both the firing pin and receiver, causing the trigger to reset slowly and in a jerking motion if at all, this in spite of adequate lubrication. I polished the surfaces of the transfer bar with crocus cloth, and it's now smooth as silk.

 

[Hondo44]

The most typical cause for trigger hang up in a new gun is a 'fat' transfer bar. The hammer is pinching it to the firing pin/frame and the trigger spring can't reliably pull it down/reset the trigger.

 

[TheOtherLeft]

So does that mean polishing the transfer bar?

 

[flatgate]

Yes, polish the transfer bar and the trigger (don't touch the sear) and the loading gate and the pivot pins and, and, and.....

http://www.gunbooks.com

JMHO,

flatgate

 

[mike454]

It was my understanding that all the midframe guns have transfer bar pinch by intent. Has anyone else heard this?

 

[Hondo44]

So does that mean polishing the transfer bar?

If the trigger resets by slightly pulling back on the hammer, the transfer bar needs to be slightly thinned at its top until the trigger resets w/o pulling on the hammer. Won't take much thinning!

Since it's such a pain to disassemble and reassemble the transfer bar, it's MUCH easier to work on the upper hammer notch! Just cock the gun to full cock, and look for the drag marks in the top hammer notch. Flat sand and polish there.

And 1st take off the grips and make sure both legs, right and left sides of the trigger return spring are hooked on the pin in the grip frame.