New to reloading ?'s about getting started with the 40 S &am

[Dbl Auto]

I am a shotgun guy, but my buddy has me excited about getting into handguns and reloading the 40 S & W. I am looking at buying some equipment and had some questions. Anyone have any experience with the RCBS APS hand primer? This is the one that uses the plastic strips that feed the primers. From my research it looks like I'll need a push thru die, along with the rest of the dies to prevent any issues with range brass from unsupported chambers of Glocks. I like the looks of the Redding GRX push thru base sizing die. For you guys with experience, do you go with the carbide dies so you don't have to lube?
Thanks,
Doug

 

[contender]

Well, I do not use the RCBS strips type of priming device. I've been set up in reloading long before this system came out. To me, it adds another step or so to load the strips. I'll pass on it.
Yes, a Redding push-through die will help with 40 S&W brass picked up from a range. I have one, and I use it for my 40 cal reloading. I get a lot of 40 cal brass, (need some cheap?) and since I want to make sure it chambers, I use the push through.
By all means, get the carbide dies. Also get the taper crimp die. Lastly, add a chamber check guage for when you finish loading. Check the ammo, as you can get an unexplained out of spec round that could cause a jam. I use them for all my semi-auto ammo I reload. I shoot USPSA matches, and a jam could cost me bigtime.

 

[Dbl Auto]

contender, thanks for the info. How do you prime your rounds, with the press? Also, from my research some guys take down their carry gun (SW M&P for me) and remove the barrel to check each round. I thought this was a smart move and plan to do this.

As for the brass, I think I have a lifetime supply. My buddy lives close to our range. When he hears some blazing, he checks later to see what was left on the ground. He doesn't load 40's and gave me 1602 pieces just to get started. Thanks again.
Doug

 

[44shootist]

I use the RCBS universal hand primer works very well, and no strips to deal with, and yes buy carbide dies in every cal. you can so you don't have to lube.
I use a mixture of RCSB and Lyman reloading tools, both real good stuff, I just buy what I like best out of the two.

 

[Dbl Auto]

44 thanks,
Any pet loads as far as powder and bullet for the 40 S & W?

In shotgun reloading, I only use the brand of primer called for in the recipe. Does this apply to handgun ammo as well?

Plated or jacketed bullets for best results?

Doug

 

[44shootist]

No pet loads for 40 cal. I don't own any guns or load in 40cal. wish I had some to give you, if you don't have a manual yet, there is some free reloading data on hodgdon powders web site it covers their brand plus IMR powder, and Winchester powder, and for a good low price for bullets check out Montana Golds site think their prices would be best for 40 cal. that you can find.

 

[contender]

A pet load is the one your gun prefers. Too many variables to try & give you a recipie. Read the load charts & manuels. See what they say works the best. My ammo is loaded for accuracy AND making Major in competition. You can use a different brand of primers than the specific ones in a book, but as with any reloads, start low & work up.
Using the bbl to chamber check is a method many folks use. I find it's easier to buy the guage.

 

[mattsbox99]

Like 44, I use the universal hand primer. Don't waste your time with the strips since you either have to spend more money on those already in the strips or do it yourself and its just a hassle.

I don't think anybody even makes regular steel dies, but get the carbide.

I shoot several .40s, two are M&Ps and one is set up for competition. I don't use the GRX or Bulge Buster dies, another waste of time. The M&P has a fully supported chamber so nothing to worry about there. Not all Glock brass is 'pregnant' so just toss out the ones with the bulge, the GRX die does not make the case stronger even if it looks normal. A regular sizing die will take the bulge out anyway.

I have a Dillon Square Deal B set up for my competition load in .40 and .45ACP. I can make 800 rounds in the same time it takes to make 100 the slow way.

I like Titegroup powder with a 165 grain Montana Gold RNFP. I make mine a little longer than the max COAL listed, they tend to feed better.

Primers aren't really a big deal in target loads. When you get to Max pressures you need to be very careful and match all components. I keep my velocities around 1050 FPS, just enough to make USPSA Major power factor.

 

[sourdough44]

The 'Glock bulge' isn't all that common. The more recent Glocks have about as much 'chamber support' as other 40 s&w guns. Just because you get carbide dies you can still lube a little bit, every 4th case or so. Imperial die wax works great, a little goes a long way.

My usual all around 40 s&w load is a 165 grn plated flat nose over a modest charge of H Universal.

I prime with the RCBS hand primer, the older one where you have to use an appropriate shell holder for each case size. It works fine for me.

Starting off I'd go slow & triple check everything. Only load about 10 rounds at 1st to make sure they shoot & cycle fine, of a given load/charge.

 

[WESHOOT2]

I most highly recommend 'medium' powders like Power Pistol, WAP/Silhouette, 3N37, AA5, HS6.

I suggest 165--200g bullets.

I ONLY use CCI500 primers in this very-high-pressure cartridge.

I have never pushed a case through a die; I use a LEE 'U' die for 'bulged' cases, and willingly cull heavily bulged cases during inspection (I mean, if it bulged it stretched, and simply resizing it with a through-die doesn't automatically mean it will offer sufficient case neck tension).

I use an OAL of 1.130"+/-.005". I crimp 'firm', using LEE Carbide Factory Crimp Dies.

Esoteric "makin' Major" soft-shooting 40 S&W loads demand certain specialized set-ups from the launch platform, and not all guns can accomodate the needed adjustments. These loads generally utilize 170--200g bullets, OALs as long as 1.220" ('common' long-40 OAL runs around 1.200"), and light charges of Titegroup.